gigs

I sell them on my web site for considerably less than ebay. http://ballistictools.com/store/dillon-1050-bearing-kit I'd post the part numbers if this was just us and it wasn't going into Google. Thing is the O-rings are packs of 100 minimum where I get them. INA US made bearings in my kit. Edit - Heh that's what I get for not reading the whole thread. As you all have already discovered, the bearing is 5909K43 at mcmaster. The O-ring is 9452K137 but it only comes in packs of 100. Those hard durometer rings would probably work fine, but they might be a hassle to get off if you ever need to take it off, since it is a snug fit.

I'm surprised your 1050 runs without the rubber bumper on the primer slide. Without it, the slide will be "jumping" quite a ways on most presses, which can cause problems if you don't go really slow.

Dillon and Rigger are right, but I disagree with Dillon that this is rare in 223. With certain batches I see it all the time. It seems to have to do with a corrosion process that doesn't always happen, but can happen under certain conditions that the spent brass has been subject to. Dillon's advice to make sure there are no sharp edges on the decapping pin is sound, but I would take that a step further, put a slight bevel on the tip of the decapping pin so it looks like a blunt hypodermic needle. Then polish the heck out of it until it's mirror smooth all over the tip. The beveled tip seems to cause the spent primer to cock a little bit, which prevents it from sucking straight back into the primer pocket.

If you can make the velocities you need with a bulkier powder, that's always the best insurance in my eyes. Get your case loads over 50% fill and you can't miss a double charge.

It was in there good too.

That really sounds like expanded bases to me. I think Lee makes a "push through" die you can use to fix that, albeit slowly.

Keep in mind, a case with a truely expanded head can't be sized down with a normal sizing die. Professionals use an automatic machine that's almost exactly like a cannelure machine to roll size the bases. I could be done with a collet as well the same way shotgun bases are sized. But not with a normal die.

I like to set it so it just barely pops the shell plate with the hold down rod up, and the lower the rod. In theory you could get everything just perfect so it does not pop up at all, but this method has been easiest for me (especially since I'm motorized so I can't guarantee the ram is exactly all the way down), and I don't think a slight pop is going to hurt the plate, after all the priming station causes a slight flex as well.

Sounds like there may be a market for steel station one locators after all. I made mine on a manual mill and it was pretty labor intensive. I'd have to get a quote to see how feasible it would be. I love Dillon stuff but I don't understand Dillon's love affair with zinc and polymer parts, especially considering their generous warranty.

Can I get a bit more detail on this? A pic would be great, but I can usually figure out detailed explanations. The polymer cam ramp is two parts, the top part can slide in relation to the bottom part if you loosen the screw that you take out to turn it around from pistol to rifle. The adjustment of the top part determines how far the case dropper pivot moves, and its timing. The backs of the two parts should be close to flush, or if your press is worn well, maybe the top part should be very slightly forward (10-20 thousanths from flush). You might also need to adjust the steel rod that moves the ramp forward and back. There should be very little gap at the top of the stroke. It's actually ok if the rod never lifts off the ramp at the end of the stroke. Having the rod too far up will cause issues where brass gets stuck in the station 1 locator because the cam ramp starts pushing it too early. Considering this happened when you moved the press, you might want to also make sure that the polymer parts aren't cracked, and take the ramp off and make sure the spring under it isn't broken. That spring does break on a somewhat regular basis.

Mmmm you say potato. Generally the brass web thickness dictates where you need to put the back up rod, so you don't get much choice in the matter if you actually want to get a good swage on there. Oh well, it's a minor issue at best.

Sounds like he's talking about a 650... the 1050 doesn't have those kind of issues. I've found that mounting a small piece of steel bar stock hanging on the back of the polymer cam ramp to give it a little weight in the back helps keep it from bouncing around so much. He's probably referring to the station one locator. Be careful polishing that, the rails erode easily. I eventually had to make a station one locator out of steel because mine kept wearing/peening and causing the above mentioned issues (falling brass, slingshotting, failure to insert, etc)

Swaging should help, S&B aren't really much tighter, they just have sharp edges without a radius, which makes priming hard with some brands of primer. It can take a lot of swage to get a radius, you need more than the nose of the swage rod in there, you actually have to bump it with the swage rod's shoulder (the shell plate might pop up very slightly when you have it right). Adding that much swage might throw off your other dies though, so recheck everything else if you do that.

You sure he didn't say half a mil, as in 0.0005 inch? That sounds more plausible.

Check that the top part of the cam ramp is flush with its bottom part. It sounds like all your problems are related to the polymer cam ramp in one way or another.

I've found that letting one or two primers build up in the tray actually keeps future ones from jumping out. Not too worried about 3 primers detonating, but you shouldn't let it fill up. Anyway there's a reason it's nicknamed the "primer ski-jump"

A little off topic, but since you say this, why do the 1050 swage back up rods flare cases on rifle calibers? I put mine on a lathe and took off that part of them, but I wonder why you ship them that way.

Do you have the right power drop die insert? Does it freely move up and down inside of there? Is it in there upside down?

Before we built the beast dryer, I used to put them on a big cookie tray and used a heat gun on them. Get them up to around 200-250F, it's basically impossible to accidentally anneal them with a heat gun, unless you just held it in one spot for a really long time.

This dries them quick.

Yeah I wouldn't say wet cleaning is a waste of time. It's faster than straight vibratory cleaning in a lot of cases, though there is slightly more hands-on time involved. If you size after wet cleaning but before dry tumble with nu-polish, you can get rid of all the case lube. If you don't care about the lube, the final tumble really isn't necessary, they are still plenty bright without the nu-polish if you get your wet wash right. BTW Citric acid won't leach zinc in any reasonable amount of time, but if you use other acids then it is possible.

The last batch of hornady pickup tubes I got was too tight. Like strain your hand to push it onto the primers tight. Like so tight that sometimes a primer would jam where the plastic transitioned to the metal. I tried stretching the plastic by forcing a punch in there and they were still too tight. I don't know what happened but I guess it was a bad batch of tips. I couldn't see any visible casting flash or anything. I had to take all those hornady tubes and use the lathe to cut off the end (their tips go inside instead of outside) and put dillon pickup tips on them. Much better now.

The more you put in the primer system, the bigger the explosion if it blows up. Just something to think about. Even pro loaders don't hold a whole bunch of primers per column, even running at 3600 RPH. There's a reason for that.

I got the uniquetek light and I didn't really care for it. If you use a rapid trim it doesn't really work at all, and even on a regular toolhead got in the way of adjusting dies, so it wound up on the shelf with the rest of the "neat ideas that didn't really work out".