HOGRIDER
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Posts posted by HOGRIDER
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quiksilverj:
Maybe this will help..........
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285692-mark7-evo-crush-primers/?do=findComment&comment=3182537
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1 hour ago, George16 said:
Just did a phone-in order this morning for an RL1100 in .223 (Steel dies Since the carbide dies wont be available for awhile) and I was quoted 3-4 weeks. I was told .40 will be 2-3 weeks but I don’t have a use for it. Like someone said in their post, I also asked if it’s possible to just send me the machine without any dies but said he can’t do it.
The rep was very nice and upfront. Dillon also gave me a military discount which save me some money.
Congratulations!
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454bore:
Photo Escape is actually manufacturing the powder funnel to original specs, here in the USA, as designed by MBF/RAK Systems. The are also available here:
http://uniquetek.com/product/T1582
I have also considered many times sending one of my MBF funnels out for TiN coating. So I'll be following your thread closely!
Thanks!
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Just now, tmz said:
My very first post explains it is a maintenance counter, is what I use it for to know when to do the maintenance on the machine, people can use them for different purposes counting bullets counting strokes of the machine so they have a rough idea when to do maintenance nothing mandatory just convenience.
Great idea!
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18 minutes ago, SpartanArmament said:
Hello Folks looking for a solution as well! The 9mm MBF powder funnel is sticking horribly with every powder drop on my RL1100. It has removed the smoothness of the reloading process on this new rig. It was not this bad on my 650. I even tried polishing the MBF powder funnel.
I wet tumble and use Brass Juice Pistol Case Lube.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI'm in the same situation right now...........haven't decided which direction to go with improving the MBF funnel.
One thing I did learn in my research is that since the RL1100 has a much larger shell plate vs the XL650, there is more room for "flex" which is going to amplify the "sticking" of the brass coming out of the funnel.
Hopefully there will eventually be user(s) that will share their success stories on how to machine/file/polish the MBF funnel to all but eliminate the sticking!
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22 minutes ago, mvmojo said:
You won't need the spares if you use the stainless steel bolt - you'll never wear it out!
I'm sure you are correct. And I have the SS bolts handy should it fail again!
Thanks!
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8 minutes ago, chevrofreak said:
I am starting to wonder if Dillon is shafting Immortobot because of their now former connection to Ammobot.
Good point, and could very well be true..........
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On 5/25/2020 at 1:13 AM, chevrofreak said:
I am pissed off and tired of waiting. Immortobot said I am their oldest open order and they were willing to piece together an 1100 in 9mm for me. I would rather Dillon just get some damned product out rather than their dealers have to compromise their own stock and potentially void warranties to take care of their customers. I sent Dillon a message tonight, so we will see what happens.
chevrofreak:
I truly feel and share your pain! Hope you get it worked out.
I don't remember what caliber you had ordered, but this new member had posted on FB about the EXCELLENT service he had received from DAA when ordering his RL1100.
https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/285615-rl1100-purchase-and-setup/
Maybe give them a call?
HTHs
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Just as a follow up.............
I was at Lowes and purchased a couple of 1/4-20 x 2" bolts along with a couple of 1/4-20 x 1.75" bolts to have on hand just in case the Primer Cam Bolt took a turn for the worse. Plus mvmojo and ddc were using the bolts as successful backup replacements.
I remember someone mentioning that the cam bolt needed a washer or something behind the shoulder to put the bolt at the proper distance from the toolhead. 2, 1/4" washers OR 2, 1/4"x1" fender washers worked in thickness and seemed ok. Those 1" fender washers seemed like the perfect diameter!
Then it hit me that I had purchased (at Lowes) a stick of 1/8" x 1" x 4' long flat aluminum bar stock to make some soft jaws for my and my Son's bench vises. So, I cut a piece 1" x 1 1/8" long, and drilled a 7/32" hole right in the center. The extra 1/8" length was filed down to make sure I had a good, flush fit.
The stock Toolhead Ratchet is 0.137" thick while the Hillman aluminum flat bar is 0.127" thick. IMO, this is more than close enough!
Just another option for those that like to remove the ratchet while retaining the stock Primer Cam Bolt. And, BTW, Dillon sent me 2 new Cam Bolts plus I ordered a Spare Parts Kit for the RL1100. Surely I'll have enough spares..............
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Pauly:
Welcome to Brian Enos' Forums! Great to see you come over from Dillon Reloaders - The Blue Group!
I'm sure there are others here that may benefit from hearing of your great experience with DAA.
And there's lots of reading pertaining to the new RL1100 plus a large group of veteran RL1050/S1050 users that enjoy helping out those new to this platform.
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chgo:
Since it's been a LONG day for me.......if you don't mind..........bring me up to date on your die setup and why your process is so smooth!
I can see the MBF powder funnel under the Dillon powder drop, but not sure what's being used in Stations #2 and #3.........
THANKS!
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SMOOTH! [emoji106][emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro -
3 minutes ago, ddc said:
Looks like right about 2"
That will work!
Thanks ddc!
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Looks good ddc! What was your original OAL bolt length? [emoji106][emoji106]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro -
double post; please delete..........
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On 5/19/2020 at 5:21 AM, Brooke said:
One thing about this part guys. It is a piece of garbage. I finally bought 10 so I would have spares. The biggest weakness is the thin wall where it's hollowed out for the Allen wrench.
If you remove the ratchet, place some washers between the part and the structure it screws into. Failing to do that means the guide rides on the hollowed out section which will break it. You have to compensate for the thickness of the ratchet or you are doomed.
Should this fragile part be better....hell yeah it should. My only fear with the McMaster stud is that it has no means to tighten it up without marring the surface which is likely an issue.
Was just trying some different options for taking up the space/thickness to replace the ratchet, and two 1/4"x1" fender washers work perfectly to fit into the tool head recess.
These are from Lowe's.............
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Sig:
I'm taking a guess that mvmojo may have used this one..........
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hillman-1-4-in-x-1-in-Stainless-Coarse-Thread-Hex-Bolt/3701934
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4 hours ago, mioduz said:
I think i may have found the critical dimension. Center of Pin to sear face .4045 +0/-.003
Is this best practice for determining sear "life" remaining
Lot of great advise above...........I'm in the same boat as zzt!
Another pic that provides dimensions that are easy to measure:
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38 minutes ago, RangerTrace said:
We broke the one on my super 1050 when we were getting it set up. Thankfully I had a spare parts kit. Now, I'm extra careful when I remove/install that part as it comes off pretty frequently.
RT:
Funny that you mention that..........the Dillon Tech was curious as to why I had removed the bolt in the first place; and I told him that to install the RI Starlight system I had to remove the toolhead. And since this was my first 1050/1100 class machine, I was simply following the directions which states to remove the bolt and ratchet as "step 1" when removing the toolhead!
His reply was that it wasn't actually necessary to remove the ratchet/bolt assembly when removing the toolhead.............
So, I probably need to watch a few videos to get a better handle on this procedure. I'm thinking with the primer slide indexing assembly clamp and primer magazine so close by, and the toolhead pin/spring assembly at the rear, I'm not real sure just how difficult it would be to get the toolhead off with the ratchet intact.
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4 hours ago, Dirtchevy841 said:
Yeah I know they are the same but I was saying that in a rush to get delayed parts maybe the Batch was bad or whatever and it seems like it’s more prevalent in 9mm presses where parts are difficult for dillon right now.
Ok, yea I think your right! Everyone is in a huge rush...........
I did call Dillon and after I had sent an email last night, they are sending me 2 new ones out priority mail. The Tech claimed these were a premium, case hardened bolt that did not require any loctite! Told him mine had more than enough; and he feels that is causing problems. Supposedly reporting to assembly supervisors...........
I politely disagreed with the quality of his bolt; but did agree that production is probably using too much, and/or using the wrong loctite.............
I'll still be applying 1 drop of Loctite 222 to mine when they get here................
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4 hours ago, Ming the Merciless said:
Just curious, other than to remove the ratchet, why would you remove the cam pin?
If you remove the Toolhead, the ratchet and the cam bolt that holds it to the toolhead are removed.........
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6 hours ago, Dirtchevy841 said:
Seems like all these broken cam pins are on 9mm 1100 presses. Part may have been rushed to get it out faster to their customers. My 1100 is in 40 and I’ve removed this pin several times with no issues and it didn’t have loctite on it the first time.
No mention of the part number being any different in the caliber conversions; page shows the bolt and part number with relationship to toolhead. IMO, this same part number/bolt has been used in the RL1050/S1050/RL1100 machines regardless of caliber...........
MIM or inferior made part!
#5
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2 minutes ago, ltdmstr said:
Just checked my 1050 manual and it's the same part number. So I'd say they probably have a batch of defective parts (bad heat treat or something).
Thank you Sir! Sure appreciate you taking the time to research this!
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ltdmstr:
They look the same.........but IMO are very different quality...........
Here are a couple of pics of my RL1100 cam bolt. Second pic shows the outer perimeter cracked in a couple of places; and the walls of the hex insert/stamping will not grab the allen wrench...........
RL1100
in Dillon Precision Reloading Equipment
Posted
About 12 weeks (last part of April) into my 14 week wait for my 9mm RL1100, I also insisted they just send me the press without any dies as I didn't use the Dillon dies anyway! Was told that WAS NOT an option as every press had to be set up and tested with the included dies before they could be shipped.
As I found out during this ordeal, accurate info was totally dependent on who you were talking to at the time of your call.........
SMH........