michael_aos

Lets say I can process 20 pieces / minute. And I need to do 3000 pieces to pay for the equipment. That puts me at $0. So actually 4K to "save" anything. Neck-size to 7mm - 200 minutes Full-length size to .260 Remington - 200 minutes Neck shave - 200 minutes I'm at 10hrs to "save" $137 @ 4K. 17% less than just buying 4K of new .260 Remington. Savings jumps to 27% at 5K. I'm going to try some Imperial die wax in the RL550B. Maybe I can full-length size and neck-down to .260 in 1 step. That saves me the cost of additional dies & a single-stage press (and time). I'm not really after "benchrest" accuracy, but I'm kind of expecting at least 1MOA. Mike

I can understand wanting "flush" magazines, but why score .40 minor? Shouldn't it be 9+1 MAJOR? Mike

I've got to admit, I kind of like the idea of adding a single-stage press. It so happens I can get a Forster Co-Ax for $120 and I'm sure I'd find additional uses for it. Not so sure about the outside neck shaver -- I'd definitely want it if I order 5K of once-fired .308, but I'm not sure how much use it would really see long-term. I've got 500 .260 Remington brass now and I just stuck another 1K on my "wish list". I should take delivery of the AR-10 by this weekend. I really don't know how much I'll actually be shooting it. Contrast THOUSANDS of rounds through my AR-15 -vs- HUNDREDS of rounds through my 700P. I've got a 5rd and 10rd AR-10 magazine, with a couple 20rd magazines on backorder. That will keep the round-count down for a little while. I'm not actually targeting this gun for competition-use. Just a plinker. I don't really have any idea how much shooting I'll actually do with it. Mike

So lets see.... Looking like a single-stage press, plus a motorized neck shaver, plus a 7mm-08 neck-sizing die. Not including the case-trimmer, the break-even point is about 3K. I'd be ahead at 4K, but not really enough to justify all the work. At 5K it makes sense. I don't know how many times I should expect to be able to use new .260 Remington brass -- maybe 5 times? So 4K x 5 firings == 20K rounds fired. Or even 3K x 5 = 15K rounds. That sounds like a lot. Maybe I'll just stick with factory .260 Remington brass for a while and re-evaluate if it becomes a big problem. Mike

Thanks, that sounds like a good idea. .260 Remington runs about $197/thousand new. Versus $65/thousand for once-fired .308. At just 2000rds, that adds up to $264. I'd be willing to spend a little to save a little. I expect I would have to neck-ream the cases. Specifically, what neck-reamer should I be looking at? Mike

I knew at "some point" adding length doesn't buy you anything. In fact it becomes a detriment. Just wasn't sure where that point was. Mike

I've got an AR-10 in .260 Remington (just for fun). I bought 500 new .260 Remington brass and loaded up a few on my RL550B. Everything seems fine. So then I thought I'd buy some once-fired .308 and just neck them down in a full-length sizing die. Sprayed them with "One shot", but they act like they're not even lubed. It doesn't "feel" right at all, so I figured I'd stop and check here first. How's this SUPPOSED to work? Do I need a single-stage press, or a small-base die, or something else...? Mike

That's what I keep wanting to think as well. Except.... If I wind up back at 20", then I should have bought the LTR that I liked so much in the first place. Since I've already got the 26" 700P, I "feel" like I need to make the most of it and go with something longer than 20", but less than 26". Mike

Sorry, didn't mean to mislead. When I said "to 400m", I meant 400m maximum. Part of my motivation is that I've got a 26" heavyweight 700P in .223 I'd like to put on a weight-loss program, or replace. I do recognize the .223 isn't an ideal long-range cartridge, but it's fun and cheap to shoot. Say I can get a 69gr HPBT at 3100fps out of a 24" barrel. And lets say zero'd at 300m. How would that trajectory compare to a 22" barrel? A 26" barrel? Over the course of 100m - 400m. I ASSUME the heaviest weight I could run in a 1:9" twist would be my best bullet choice. Mike

I was just assuming quick-and-easy weight loss would come from lopping off a few inches of the barrel. Mike

26" just LOOKS so long. And although I have no idea what those inches of barrel weigh, I'd expect them to be pretty heavy. 24" would be preferable to 26", assuming I'm not giving up too much in velocity. Anything significant with 23"? Drops a little more weight, moves the balance back from the barrel. Lots of velocity lost? Significant muzzle-blast? It seems like there should be a "sweet spot" in here. 23" just happens to be right in the middle between "short" and "long", but I don't know the implications. Mike

Not talking about a 5lb "mountain" gun. But maybe something that comes in more like 10lbs with a scope. A "light target" rifle, versus a "heavy target" rifle. I'd like to determine an "ideal" barrel length for targets typically in the 200m - 400m range. 20" is probably too short. 26" is probably too long. There's got to be a "sweet spot" there, but I don't know how to figure it out. For starters, I'm thinking a 1:9" twist .223, so shooting max of 69gr bullets. 55gr is fine too, if that makes more sense. Also with the same distance criteria (200m - 400m), what would be an "ideal" barrel length for the following calibers: .260 Remington .308 Winchester Thank you, Mike

I'd been toying with buying a S&W 610, on the off-chance that I might want to shoot both USPSA & IDPA. All this discussion is pushing me toward a 5" 625 and just forget about IDPA entirely. Mike

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Yes, that's what the article was geared toward. "Gas guns" and their special reloading requirements. Mike

I recently read in my Sierra loading manual that leaving case-lube on after reloading is a "bad idea". The theory is that the case temporarily expands when fired and is held by the chamber. When the gas pressure goes down, the case shrinks back down and is extracted. If the case is lubed, it won't "stick" for that fraction of a second and too much rearward force is applied to the breachface. Mike

It's only a 1:9" twist, so I think 69gr is about as long as I can go. Yeah, I looked at the Mountain Gun in .260 in Monday. It's a toy. Looks like I'm going to have a highly regarded local smith build me an AR-10 in .260 Remington. This is really just all about fun for me. I just want something fun to shoot that can handle the constant wind a little better. I was too inexperienced to realize how big a deal that was going to be. Once I'm set up and shooting the .260 caliber for a while, it should be pretty easy to add a bolt-gun at a later date. My AR-15 is easily my most-fun gun, so the AR-10 seems like a logical addition. I had also toyed with simply a 6.8SPC "upper" but I'm not so sure about it. A big part of the original draw to the 700P in .223 was commonality with the AR-15, and the availability of cheap factory ammo. That's no longer a huge factor, but I thought it made sense at the time. Mike

It sounded to me like they would credit my account once they recouped from the vendor. I guess I need to call back and verify exactly how this is going to work. I poked around on their website, but I couldn't find a policy posted. Mike

I'm still not clear on my CC company policy. They closed the account and they said they would "charge back" or maybe it was "try and charge back" the items in dispute. I'm just glad I didn't used my debit card! Mike

Sportsmans Guide has somewhat lax security, but I don't save my credit-card info online for later purchases. They do have my CC number on-file for the "4-pay" plan, but I'm pretty certain its not them. I don't save my CC info at Brownells either. BE doesn't appear to even have a mechanism for that, nor MidwayUA. I was hoping a pattern would develop here. Mike

Linksys is the only way to go. Try and use WPA if at all possible. Mike

Back in September, some unauthorized charges showed up on my credit-card bill. HTTP://WWW.SKYPE.NET INTERNET GBR HTTP://WWW.SKYPE.NET INTERNET GBR YAH*YAHOO MAIL 408-349-5151 CA 1ST CLASS SOFTWARE MISSISSAUGA CAN WWW.SHAREITINFO.COM COLOGNE DEU PROXYCONN8005053387 IRVINE CA 2CO.COM 877-294-0273 OH Now, beginning on 12/23, there are several unauthorized charges on an entirely different card. Paypal MP3.com iBills.com Yahoo Wallet SWSELL ePayment Google Answers I just can't figure out where they're getting my numbers! I was thinking maybe a site I purchased something from was hacked, but I hadn't even used the first card in months. My recent purchases on this card were: Brassman Brass BrianEnos.com Powder Valley Midway USA Sportsmans Guide Lowes Brigade Quartermasters TiVO Mike

I'd always wanted an AR-15, but never had a valid excuse to get one. Then I discovered 3-gun. Woo hoo! Now that I've had this AR-15 for about a year, and been enjoying the heck out of it, I find myself wanting an AR-10. I know it would buy me "major" PF, but I'm not sure that's a big deal. In my extremely limited experience it seems like the top guys are shooting .223's. I suppose I could shoot "he man", but I don't have much interest in iron sights. I'm thinking 24" barrel, not a little "tactical carbine", if that matters. So the question is -- what do you use your AR-10 for? Or better yet, what's a good reason to get one? I'm having a hard time plunking down $2500 on a setup because "it might be fun". I've also noticed it's ALWAYS windy on the 400yd range, so I was thinking something less affected by wind would be a good thing. But again, not sure what thats really worth. Mike

I would LOVE to get there. Somehow I've wound up with 10 handguns (5 1911's) and 5 long guns and trying to figure out how I re-arrange my budget to afford an AR-10... Mike

How come nobody ever mentions the $1300 AR-30M?