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Thank you for the video! You kick your finger way out of there...and I think I do that 5,999/6,000 times, and that isn't good enough. I'll keep working at it.

All 3 AD's happened as I was pushing the mag release button with my thumb...then after that my finger is naturally flat on the frame. I don't have an issue with AD's as I'm getting back on target.

Thanks for the replies, all great ideas. As far as reversing the mag release - never thought about that. I do have a Gen 4 Glock now and could try it...but I think I'd be afraid that if I overshot the mag release I'd be in the trigger guard... Shooting in the Production division - no skate tape allowed. But frames of all of the guns I have do have a distinguishable spot to put the trigger finger. That was part of my plan/focus during the 6,000 reloads...then again, until this weekend I hadn't identified that it was specifically when I was pushing the mag release that the AD was happening. Maybe that plus knowing exactly when the problem is occurring will do the trick.

Hoping someone might have a mental cue that can ensure I never get my finger in the trigger guard again on a mag change... Long story short, I've been shooting for 2 years a a couple of months. As I worked to improve and got into trying to be faster on stages and in gun handling I assumed safe gun handling was ingrained. Then I had an AD mag changing in practice, which I mentally wrote off as being related to shooting a new gun and being a little out of control. Then I had an AD with a gun I am very familiar with at a major match. I did at least 6,000 mag changes in the month that followed, most focused entirely on keeping my finger out of the trigger guard. Shot a few matches in a very safety conscious, super controlled and slow manner. Stepped on the gas in practice this past Saturday and BANG - AD during a mag change. All three AD's occurred as I was hitting the mag release button. I think that at times I don't break my shooting grip for the mag change...and sometimes the finger stays in the trigger guard. If I consciously think about having my finger out, it's out. The problems with that are that I'm uncompetitive running around thinking about not AD'ing and I go through stages/reps where I don't recall consciously having my mind on where my finger is when I'm hitting the mag release - and it scares the shit out of me. Anybody have any thoughts on how I might make sure my finger is always out of the trigger guard? Seems like it should be really simple...but head trash can be a mountain.

Ibejiheads does have a 140 grain .40 listed on their website...and at the price listed it's as economical as 9mm. Looks like a hockey puck - no idea how stable that would fly through the air...

KKM"s are great. Briley gunsmith fit barrels (you can do the fitting yourself - it isn't that hard) are also nice (you would get one at powerfactorshooting.com.)

The guy got two slides from Glockworx - his stock 24 slide with their lightening work and then one of their stainless steel lightened slides (that they machine from a block of stainless steel, I think...it doesn't start as a stock Glock part.) The stainless, lightened slide is the one that had the constant malfunctioning including doubling. He stripped it bare and swapped parts a few times trying to get the gun to run with it...and the guy that has it now had the same problems with it (he may or may not have gotten them resolved.) I wouldn't have thought that the fact that the slide was lighter than stock caused doubling and failures to fire...I don't know what the cause of all that mess was, but the gun wouldn't run with it... The lightened stock slide was the one that, when he ran it, he snapped frame pins every couple hundred rounds. He worked closely with Glockworx to try to resolve it, including playing around with more spring weight (from 13lbs to 17lbs.)...it snapped frame pins with all of those spring weights, though the heaviest spring caused the frame pin to last the longest. As I said, Glockworx believed it was the barrel...but they ended up paying him what he had in the gun, so he's out of it now and it'll never be known for sure. Your theory sounds good/correct and I don't doubt it...but something else was going on in this case.

At a training session/class I asked Vogel about slide lightening and he said he dislikes it - I think the word he used was "violent," as in the lightening makes the gun feel too violent. I put a few rounds through one - I thought the sight recovery was faster but not as precise. I didn't mind the extra violence, but definitely shooting it was more dramatic. Unfortunately, the guy who's gun I tried ended up having no luck with the lightened slides: - he bought a stainless slide from Glockworx and had problems with the gun doubling and otherwise malfunctioning (guy who has it now was having the same issues when he first got it - don't know if the issues have since been resolved,) and - he had them machine his stock slide and it was breaking frame pins every couple hundred rounds (I think it was the barrel...Glockworx thought it was the barrel...it never really got resolved.)

Yep, really bad slide bite. Apparently I was born with more fat between the web of my thumb and index finger than you normal folks Last year for pretty much the whole summer it had greenish colored stuff coming out of it... And I am talking about 34's, not 17's...but my point was all of the other bullshit that adds up when you setup an entirely new gun - here's what I've spent in the last two weeks: - Gen 4 Glock 34 at local gun shop - $711 out the door - Warren/Sevigney sights - $85 - Jagr Gen 4 guiderod - $30 (tried the adapter and it didn't work - last time I ever buy a Lone Wolf product because nothing I've ever tried of theirs worked) - Briley gunsmith fit barrel - $180 - I already had spare trigger stuff lying around So I spent over $1,000 to get a Gen 4 ready to compete...would've spent $230 on just a Gen 4 frame...

Yeah I guess you can't get the Lone Wolf slide without the front cocking serrations...and that makes it illegal.

I ordered the Warren rear with the .180 tall .100 wide front sight. I didn't return the sights from the first order - that was my fault for ordering stuff without knowing what I was doing, so I'm not going to make them go through the hassle of restocking and refunding. Should be here in the next few days. Getting the right grip setup is next to do... Thank you all so much for your replies - I was stuck without the replies in this thread.

I think the rule that says that you're allowed to change slides as long as it's the same caliber and general shape (contour) eliminates the need for any concern over minor cosmetic differences. As I understand that rule, you could run a Lone Wolf slide which would clearly look different than the stock slide...but you are right - the next Amidon could completely disagree and so could an RO at a major match so I'll keep the email handy and ask the next DNROI to be sure it's still cool. Whoever said that you can just pick up a Gen 4 for $500 way understated the matter - they cost $650-$700, you have to put sights on it for another $100 and then $50 or so more for miscellaneous stuff - so you're up over $800. And I have Briley gunsmith fit barrels in my Gen 3's - add another $200 if you want that in the Gen 4. I spent $1,000 to do what a $230 frame off of Gunbroker could've done...so $770 was part of the reason I was considering the Gen 3 slide on Gen 4 frame and I'm not rich. In any event, I did buy a complete Gen 4 (rather than just the frame.) Just figured that with so many people saying it wouldn't work (I think it does) and that it isn't legal (I think it is) that I'd be just flirting with trouble running the Gen 3 slide on the Gen 4 frame. As it turns out, I think I'd rather just bleed on Sundays and shoot the Gen 3 - I don't like the Gen 4 mag release, the gun doesn't fit in my hand as well with the beavertail backstrap, and with the stock barrel in it shooting coated bullets at 25 yards I was getting 3 shots within a few inches of each other in the A zone, 1 charlie, and a damn mike (not every time, but enough to where I won't shoot it in a match until that gets sorted.) Maybe it just needs to be shot a little bit...but I hold a fist sized group at 25 yards with the Gen 3 or any other gun.

I've experienced the opposite...but I just might not have been paying close enough attention.

The p226 stainless elite I bought came with tiny e2 grips...I need bigger grips. As I understand it, the polyner 226 grips are the next largest and then the rosewood ones are larger than the polymer - is this correct? Any options the same size as the rosewood at a lower price (because they're getting covered in grip tape anyhow?) Thanks!

I emailed Amidon about the legality of gen 3 slide on gen 4 frame - I used the quote from the rules from Russell's post pointed out the gap between the slide and the frame from Russell's post...here's his response: "I do not see an issue with these small differences, as long as the slide meets the other parts of the rules, length, caliber and contour your good to go." The grip force adapter isn't legal for production...Russell was just asking me why I didn't use it when I practice.

You're right about only needing one setup for matches and I'll have that now...as far as the grip force adapters, they enlarge the grips just enough to where I struggle getting to the mag release.

Thanks Russell! I picked up a gen 4 a few minutes ago at a local gun shop. I'll use it for competition and get gen 4 frames and put my gen 3 uppers on then for practice.

Kinsler, not looking to cheat whether anyone else knows or just me...and as far as "why do it?" - because I have a fleet of gen 3's and I'd replace the frames on all with gen 4 frames for the price of one gen 4. And I'm fine with every aspect of my gen 3's - briley fitted barrels, the sights I like...now I have to do it all over again with a gen 4 if the gen 3 slide isn't legal in a gen 4 frame. The only purpose of the gen 4 frame is so I don't end up with an infected, dropping wound like I had a season last year.

Does anyone know if a gen 3 slide on a gen 4 frame (with the factory beavertail) is production legal? I'm tired of having an infected wound on my gun hand...was gonna buy a gen 4...was told a gen 3 slide on a gen 4 frame would be legal - and that would save me a whole bunch of money.

I like that sight picture very much! Is that this rear: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/285825/heinie-slantpro-sight-set-sig-sauer-p225-p226-p228-p239-steel-blue?cm_vc=ProductFinding And what height Dawson front sight did you get and what is your point of aim/impact? I'm trying to get bullets to hit right at the top of the blade of my front sight... Thank you so much!

I need competition sights for a P226 Stainless Elite...and I'm not seeing very many options. I need a plain black rear and a nice thin fiber optic front - does anyone have any suggestions? I ordered a set from Dawson that were supposed to work on a 226 but the rear looks like it's for a completely different gun - the part that goes into the slide is much wider (front to back) than the groove in the slide. Reading through old threads it seems there wasn't much available even just two years ago... Thank you!

I like it...gonna have to get one. I like that grip tape pattern you have there - whose is that?

Which may be why they get them and we don't...

Freedom ventures.ca sells chromed steel magazines...but not to the USA. Anyone have an idea how to get them in the us?

I have the Briley gunsmith fit barrel in my gen 3 G34 and can shoot fist size groups at 25 yards (just standing and shooting) when I do my job. I did the fitting myself - took 3 hours because I was so careful but I think it was worthwhile. I'm sure Bar Sto is as good if not better. (I didn't try the stock barrel - I shoot lead bullets, which was the first reason I got the barrel.)