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Shooter115

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Posts posted by Shooter115

  1. For my 3-Gun rifle, pistol and SG. They get cleaned thoroughly at the start of the season and before any major match. Other than that it's pretty much wipe them down and lube where needed unless we get rained or snowed on.

    Pretty sure I've never had a gun that I ran 2500 rounds through without cleaning it at all.

    For the carbon build up, there's a product called Fireclean that works really well.

    http://www.cleanergun.com/

  2. Yep, getting a .22 auto loader to run on Remington "Golden Bullets" is like trying to get my 540 HP Camaro to run on 87 octane. Results are going to be disappointing at best.

    That is interesting that you say this. Golden bullet is my go to run in any of my guns ammo. It is the only one I've found that works in all my auto loaders, marvel conversions and my newly built spikes 22 upper. I know that marvel and others even recommend GB. It's pretty much the only .22 ammo I buy anymore. Cheap and runs in everything I own, and I have a lot of .22's.

    I used to think the same thing. I purchased a couple thousand rounds of it a few years ago to practice for the Ruger Rimfire matches and it ran so well that I decided to run it at the actual match. So I went out and bought another case of it before the match and that entire case was total crap. About 1 in every 50 rounds didn't have any priming compound in the rim. The velocities were all over the place, I had constant cycling problems due to under charged cases. It was just junk and cost me dearly at the match. The rest of the case got burned up as practice ammo and I would use it for practice ammo now since .22 ammo is so hard to find, but I wouldn't buy it if there are other options available.

  3. Yep, getting a .22 auto loader to run on Remington "Golden Bullets" is like trying to get my 540 HP Camaro to run on 87 octane. Results are going to be disappointing at best.

    Most reliable bulk ammo I've found for it is the Federal 525 "blue-box" with the 36gr copper coated HP bullets. Ran 500 through my .22 upper last weekend with 2 failures, both of which were stove pipes.

    FWIW, I had to do a lot of work on the feed ramp and chamber mouth to get it to feed anything reliably. My barrel and bolt did not come from Taccom, but Tim was good enough to advise me what to do to get mine running even though I was not using his parts. If I were to start over I would have just bought from him.

  4. What should I do to improve the force of the hammer?

    You could try a GI hammer spring and see if it fits. Without having them in front of me I can't tell you if they are interchangeable or not, but the design is similar. I'm guessing the Jard has a lighter spring than mil-spec. I haven't tried my .22 upper on my lower with the Jard trigger, would be an interesting test as my Jard trigger comes in at just under 2lbs. I know it works with my JP at 3lb 5oz though.

  5. No wonder I'm getting light strikes with my Jard #2 trigger with a colt .22 conversion. Going to try the #3 spring

    Sorry, but I don't think this is going to help you out. Changing the coil spring in the Jard that sets trigger weight isn't going to give you any more strike force at the hammer.

  6. Shell catches, follower doesn't because it doesn't have a lip/rim to catch on

    Until the gun cycles. All this would do is turn the follower into the last shot in the tube. As a bonus, you would have a bunch of coil spring in the action to make things really interesting.

  7. My Syrac locked up too. I'm now installing the cool Seekins Precision field adjustable gas blocks. What's the word on the street about those?

    I much prefer clamp on gas blocks as opposed to set screws. So it would be a no for me.

    I tried a clamp on but they are so close to touching the hand guard. I couldn't get a rail but under it either. Plus I didn't notice any benefit either. Am I missing something?

    With a clamp on you get a tighter fit that is even throughout the circumference of the barrel so it basically fits up tighter and seals the gas better. Also no need to dimple the barrel for proper installation. They are easier to remove if needed, as quite often you will get a burr under the set-screws. I've also read that set screws can also add a stress point to the barrel. That said, I've never personally seen a barrel pick up accuracy from switching over to a clamp on block, but the concept seems valid. With the set screws your gas block is attached just with pressure on the top and the bottom, so as the barrel and gas block heat up I can see how things might move around.

  8. I'm curious about these as well. No doubt the Nordic barrel is nice, but the Ice Arms mid-weight 18" 1-8 twist barrel with rifle length gas comes in at 4oz lighter and at a very attractive price. Right now with a Christmas discount they are like $180. They also have a 16" 1-8 twist, mid length with poly rifling that comes in at 1.8 lbs that looks interesting for $166.

    Anyone have real world first hand experience with them? Have they stepped forward to help support any matches?

  9. For long range practice I use 9" paper plates stapled over used IPSC targets. Using a Burris MTAC it's easy to bracket the dots in the reticle over the plates for groups and the plates size wise are a good representation of the flash targets used at most matches for 300+ yard shots.

  10. openclassterror you can't go wrong with doing business with Tim. He knows the .22 conversions inside out and helped me get mine running reliably even though it came from a different manufacturer. In hind sight I would have been way better off buying one from Taccom that was already dialed in.

    The NC uppers are also very nice if you can find one

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