loneranger04

I don't lube the primer punch however I use some silicon lube on the bottom of the primer slide. Whatever you lube you want to make sure that it stays way away from the primer. My primer slide sticks to the back some times and I have to do some cleaning and lubing again fresh.

I've run 3.4 of W231 under a 158gr bullet without any trouble. Makes a nice, accurate paper puncher. Still have some of those rounds for when my wifey goes shooting with me. She can cut the center out of the target with those and her Smith 14.

I think that they include a dvd on setting it up and it all makes sense, mostly. One thing that I goofed up on was the little spring thingy that holds the cartride in the shell holder on the first station (resize die). You want to make sure that it is in the middle of the case ie. isn't between the shell holder and the die. I broke the ears off of one of my shell holders because it wasn't properly adjusted. Dumb thing but wasn't paying attention. Also when you adjust the wing nut on the rod that runs the powder measure make sure that your powder measurer slide is going all the way but just far enough. It explains it in the manual pretty well and once you put it together you will see what I mean. A very simple machine and, as far as I'm concerned, the easiest to operate and plenty fast enough for all but the most serious reloaders. Wish I had one for each size primer.

I've got a SBE and none of the low recoil will cycle it. Not sure why because the light field and target loads cycle fine.

I have three of their holsters and love every one of them.

Wow! You def. went over your budget but...buy once cry once. I've got that scope in 6-24 and for shooting plates you don't need that much power. Very repeatable and tracks great. I haven't tried to use it for ranging yet. Good choice!

I shot my 06 in my first long range precision match and the three things that hurt me was #1 too thin of barrel, heated up too fast #2 recoil about did me in before I finished the match #3 I didn't have the right scope. I was very competitive with everything out to 500 yards but, without the right scope I had to just guess my holdovers and couldn't connect. And...the recoil was brutal after 50 rounds.

Nice stick. I like my Vortex and have had good luck with it so far. My rifle isn't as cool as that though.

I see several different loading methods used in our 3 gun however I don't think you can beat the weak hand reload that Rob is using. Takes lots of practice.

I just got started shooting some informal long range competition and, as we all know, starting a new shooting sport gets very expensive fast. I really wanted a NF but after buying a good rifle I couldn't afford the NF. (We always spend too much on the gun and go too cheap on the optics.) Bought the Viper PST 6-24 FFP used on another forum and have been very pleased with it. For shooting the precision matches optics clarity is second to tracking and repeatability. All of the test that I've done on tracking and going back to zero has been perfect. At 24 power I can easily see four equal parts of a 1/2" bullseye. The glass is plenty clear and all the clicks on the turrets are positive. Down side is the zero stop is not the greatest but it works and eye relief at 24 power is pretty limited. Your head has to be positioned just right to get a full picture at 24x. I bought this brand number one because several friends I shoot with strongly recommended it and number two has great reviews on many of the precision shooting forums and number three has a great warranty.

I bought 5000 old Winchester small pistol primers here awhile back that were in perfect condition and started having trouble right off the bat with my G34. They were in white sleeves so I can't tell you how old they are. What I figured out finally was that the older Winchester primers were harder than the newer ones. I had to go back to a heavier striker spring then all was good.

I'd go with the Super Nova since the lifter stays up out of the way while loading.

I see that this is an older thread that was resurrected yesterday and I was wondering how gng4life's PST is working out. I bought a used one about the same time from another forum and have had a chance to shoot some 100 yard stuff which it works great for but am wondering how the tracking is. I bought the FFP because it seems like a good idea for ranging however haven't used it yet.

I've been running the cheap American Eagle .223 55 gr factory ammo and it shoots well however we had to shoot at USPSA targets at 300 meters last weekend (5 head and 10 body shots) and I was left wanting for some better ammo. I think that I'll buy some heavier bullets and load some good stuff for the long range shots.

Thanks for all the education, how does the carbon fiber handguards attach to the barrel nut? Are there set screws?

I made some mistakes last year while setting up my AR for 3G and probably the worst mistake I made was using a quad rail handguard instead of a smaller diameter tube however I can remedy this by buying a new, lighter handguard. My rifle is pretty heavy since I used a MK 12 barrel and I would like to cut down on that weight some with a carbon fiber handguard. What I have is a YHM lightweight rifle length handguard and I have a rifle length gas system. My YHM only weighs 13oz so going with a solid aluminum handguard wouldn't cut any weight down. What carbon fiber handguards do you all use and what do you like about them and hate about them. Do any of you have trouble with the solid ones getting too hot? Would you go with the rifle length or the extended length? Thanks.

I wouldn't shoot it for a match but I shoot all my ammo in practice that I reject when running it through my case gauge and visual inspection.

Just bought a Tac 30 on ebay (bid on it tactical store) for $280 shipped. Haven't received it yet though. Bought a Burris one piece mount from Midway for $70.

Like you ever have to worry about me besting you! Thanks for all the help you guys and try to take it easy on an old man when lining up the course, Bentsight.

This gun goes bang with everything that I've ever put through it. I've probably only put 200-300rounds through it but I've never had a failure. I appreciate your feedback. I've went ahead and ordered a nordic extension for it and I'll play with it some before our next match to see what the fastest way is to reload. Guess I'd better try some different choke tubes and see what it patterns best with. I've shot IDPA for several years and was afraid to shoot one of these matches because it looks addictive...and it is. It's a lot of fun....but it can get pretty expensive fast.

I'm new to 3gun and have only shot a couple of local matches. I just spent more than I could afford on a upper for my AR for 3gun and now I'm working on the shotgun part and don't really have any money left to put into a shotgun. I have a Benelli SBEII with a 24" barrel that has been my bird/turkey gun and it looks like, after reading some of these post, that it will do to start with however I was wondering what all I would need to do to it to make it work for 3gun. Do I need sights? Or can I use just the beads on the barrel I have now? I've never tried loading this shotgun quickly, will that be a problem? My first two matches I used my 870 pump with a cylinder bore which worked fine however the guys winning are using auto loaders. Should I just stick with the 870? Thanks ahead of time.

Hi all! I'm new to this forum but have begun to lurk so thought that I'd intoduce myself and start learning from all you folks that have been around the 3 gun for awhile. Starting to pick up parts and pieces for my rifle so I've been trying to find out what you all use to win with. My IDPA partner has been shooting 3gun and he started some local matches at our range this year and now I've got another excuse to spend more money than I make. I've enjoyed reading these forums and find them much more...cordial than some. Thanks for all the great info!