Nuke531

Yes it it would hit my palm and drop out. Its kinda odd when I would go to the range and conduct a test fire or chrono some ammo it never happened then when I would shoot a USPSA match I would dump the mags. So after I Mig welded it and cleaned it up and lowered it, I know longer have any issues. One one I bought off a member on here cost me $ 30 but the second one I made was free I had some metal laying around.

Not sure if this will help, I had the old extended mag release that was pictured on that Springfield p9 I bought it off a member on here. It didn't work well for me so I cut the top off and welded to the old one so I can lower it, and shave it down some I kept dropping my mags while shooting after my fix it works fine. I wanted one for my back up limited gun so I took and welded a piece on to that and did some grinding and it’s just like my primary gun and didn't cost me anything.

I just had a thought, a light bulb moment. We all practice draws, dry firing and movement drills. The only time I ever conduct a walkthrough is during a match. I am thinking if you have enough space to set up a stage for airsoft, why not practice on walkthroughs also. Train yourself to have the same hand position every time and do complete walkthroughs for reloads in slow speed. When I am at a match and after the walkthrough is completed I try and get into a habit of watching every shooter before me and listen for the beep. This works out well when it’s a surrender start, I stand in the back and get into position and react to the start signal and move my hands to my grip. This lets me have multiply times to react to the signal before I am up.

29 points at 2.80 with limited gun came out to be just under 85% . My best ever classifier HF was 10.3571 A class here I come. Now only if I can shoot more then 8 matches a year.

Just my 2 cents of knowledge from what I have picked up since I started this sport. This is how I see a stage, if I pick a position to shoot then move to next position I move as fast, as safely possible. Gun up high and engage as soon as possible, if I plan on shooting on the move I move slower to give myself more stability and not to overrun the targets. There are many factors that need to be considered, how well the footing is, can you stop on a dime or are you going to end up on you butt. What class you’re shooting in, running my limited gun with 21 rounds is completely different then running my single stack with only 8 rounds. I started practicing with air-soft and learned a lot. I reduced my draw times to 1.05 and if you have a large enough area you can use it with movement drills. I watch a lot of vids of the GM’s I notice there splits are not much farther off then mine but they move so darn fast and they don’t waist time or hesitate to fire. I have learned a great deal of information from other shooters at matches; I put all that info into my tool box and use it. Sorry if this seems like I am rambling on its 0230 in the morning and I’m working 12 hour shifts and this is my 6 day in a row.

I just starting loading the 185 Moly by precision I have to load factory length for my Tanfoglio 4.3 grains of Tight Group 169 pf. They load so nice and smooth I'm sold.

I called EAA a month ago looking to get a complete gold team top end to put on my limited frame they told me it was $ 568.00 shipped to my door. It took me 4 phone calls to get through to them to answere. If you dicided to get the whole top end you would have a spare parts. Not sure if this helps but its all I got. Good luck.

Skydiver thanks for the link , thats to the tee what mine is doing except it only happens maybe every once in ten dry fires and it does't bounce enough to make it to the half cock. The pictures helped out a lot. Thanks for your time finding the link I owe you one.

I searched for the post with pics from photog I wasn't able to locate it. The sear & hammer was from EGW but it wasn't the prepped sear and hammer from Henning. Thanks for the post I'll keep looking.

Thanks for the reply, I have enough pieces and parts to put my old trigger back on the original trigger bar and I will try that and see what happens. My issues don't seem to be a safety issue since I am not having any type of hammer follow. The hammer just seems to hit the firing pin and bounce from time to time while dry firing. It is not falling to half cock, because when this does happen I have to pull back on hammer and I can feel the half cock notch engage. I do have a 13lb hammer spring in it I'm wondering if I should try a 14 or 15. I am not concerned with a super light trigger pull. I went with the short flat trigger so I can get a beter reach on it.

I forgot to mention my friend is a certified smith. I did put the brand new trigger bar in to see if it would make a difference and it will not even engage the sear. On a new trigger bar is there fitting that needs to be done?

I will have to ask the friend who fitted my hammer and sear. When I had the old trigger in with the new hammer and sear I don’t ever remember it doing what it’s doing now. I also had to set my pre-travel pretty long to get positive resets, and over-travel I was able to set tight. I also polished the back half of the trigger bar where it makes contact with my sear to a mirror finish but did not remove any of the material just polished. I did buy a new trigger bar from Henning to replace the one out of my Stock I. I am kind of dreading doing a polish on it, it’s rough. I am hoping Henning comes out with his own trigger bar.

I put a short flat trigger in my Limited .40 I had some issues at first but worked through them for the most part. It seems my original trigger bar with the grind on it for the old trigger return spring does not work. So I had to gut my Stock I production gun to borrow the trigger bar, this fixed most of my problems. I was able to set my pre travel and over travel and lock them down. I ran about 200 rounds through it with no issues, but when I was dry firing I noticed the hammer would fall hitting firing pin and seems to bounce back up some (not going to half cock). Also at times after I pull the trigger and keep it pulled back I cock the hammer and it will lock fully to the rear with trigger pulled. Here are some further information on my Limited I just had a EGW sear and hammer put in less then 1000 rounds ago I am running the heaviest trigger return spring with the lightened plunger spring. All parts are polished to a mirror finish. Does any one have any ideas? I just ran out of .40 and have some bullets on order to run it again and see what happens. When I ran the 200 rounds through it I noticed it doing all these odd things the next day.

I think the only difference from stock 1 and 2 are the full length dust cover and the squared trigger. I think the internals are all the same. To me its the same at the limited without the holes in the frame and the single action. If you wanted you can convert to single action and put a .40 top end on it and have a limited gun.

I have a stock 1 in 9mm it runs like a champ had the trigger worked on nice smooth double action and single action is around 3 pounds. I did pick up a .40 conversion from EAA and it runs the same, I was using as back up to my limited but then picked up a old open gun and use that now for limited back up. Since the stock 1 has the rounded trigger guard and will not fit into my race holster. Good thing about the Tanfoglio large frame are there all modular, so when I needed a trigger bar for my limited in a pinch I just gutted the stock 1 and used it. I never had any problems with the old mags nose diving, but I used it for production and was limited to 10 rounds. Well hope this helps some.

Last year I bought a 40 cal top end from EAA it cost me $ 286 it came with one k40 mag and it was tight but works just fine. Its mounted on a old open gun I just take the dot off and use it as my Limited back up gun. I did just call EAA yesterday and it took 4 phone calls to get someone to pick up about ordering a gold team in .38 to put it on my limited gun the price was $565.00 plus $10.00 shipping and then I will have Two open guns and two Limited , so 4 guns on two frames. I aslo tried out my stock 1 top end on my open gun for fun and it ran like a champ it is now my new steel gun.

I can get 2 of my 5 mags to work with 21. I will try these other methods to see if I can get the rest to work. I tried to run a stage at the ohio sectional match with no mag change when gun was dirty, it did not work out so well for me. Othere then my installing my front fiber wrong and it flying off after the second stage. My Tanfoglio runs like a clock. I was kinda worried I would have to shave down my mags to fit the gage like the old ones but these ones fit with a little room to spare with no shaving needed.

Thank you everyone for your input . I have replaced the hammer and sear with egw parts and I run the solid slide lock pin. My next mod will be a short flat trigger, if I can find one. I will be doing some welding on my mag release to get it to come across the grip. I had a mag drop from an older gun and it worked with the old 10mm mags, but with my new mags it locks up and will not drop mags. Well I am off to get ready for the Ohio Championship match this Sunday. 330 shooters with a total of 13 GM's and 4 in limited and its supposed to be a nice weekend.

I am able to get one of my new Mec-gar mags to load with 21. They may just need some more break in time plus I did clean up the bottoms with the base and mag connect with some polishing compound.

I use a drill out EGW undersize die and the lee bulg buster works great. Nice and strait and a plus you can resize loaded ammo.

Thanks for the reply. I have the Ohio championship comming up on May 25-27 and trying to get everything ready. Do you run the new Henning conefit guiderod?

I am working up new loads for my limited with the Mec-gar mags, using tight group. I started off with a load of 4.6 gr. and col is 1.127 it gave me around 163 PF. I then tested a 4.7 load witch gave me 171 PF with average speed of 952 after 8 rounds accuracy was not the best. Then tried a load of 4.8 witch gave me 175 PF with average speed of 974 but shot nice small groups. All loads were 180 precision delta FMJ all col was 1.127. Felt recoil was not much different between the 4.7 and 4.8, will running a steady diet of 175 PF do any long term damage to my limited using the 10.75 lb recoil spring. I know I could change powders but I have 8 pounds of tight group and I like the powder. I could load a little longer but don’t want my rounds to start making contact in my Mec-gar mags, so what do the shooters out there say that have put a lot of rounds through there tanfoglio limited.

A friend gave me some advice that he used to do with his STI Mags. He said to take out the spring and follower and put base pad on and shine flash light down and look for any burrs or some areas that might need to be pollished up. I seem to get a salt-shaker on some of them at round 20 I think the spring or follower is chatching the lip where the base and mag attach.

Yep counted the coil, I have 11 coil springs. I did also find a 10 coil spring in one of my .38 super mag and even tried that and it just seems to bottom out like it is hitting something. I am wondering if either I need to load even shorter or it is hitting on the lip where the mag and base meet. Just to also ask and make sure the 21 round base pads for the old mags are no different then the ones that go on the new K40 Mags right.

I have tried to tap on the mag starting at around the 15 round and so on until full but still only get 20, Im using fully resized brass because I ran about 2500 through the re-sizer already. After I seat the 20th round I have very little play left in mag. With 20 rounds loaded and loaded into my limited gun it takes a bit of a push to get it to seat. I would be happy if I can get just one out of the 5 to get to 21. Do you think it is limiting my round count my using re-sized brass?