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Tampa-XD45

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Posts posted by Tampa-XD45

  1. As Bill posted, some divisions do have "Maximum ammunition capacity" limits.  You need to look in the SCSA rules appendix for the division you want to shoot.   Rimfire divisions (appendix H7 and H8) have no ammo limits.  Production (listed below) does have a limit.

     

    image.png.57a05b0194c4768698569fec32de4670.png

  2. 15 hours ago, fosters3 said:

     

    It really depends on what your budget is and where you see yourself going in the sport.  The two best out on the market are the CWA custom pistols with the double stack width grip (what I shoot) and the Volquartsen scorpion.  I have tried them all and if I was not going to make this type of investment, I would go Ruger 22/45 all day.  Some people like the Lites, but I prefer the heavier gun. Which ever direction you head, I recommend getting a threaded compensator.  I would then add Tandemkross goodies as budget opens up.  

     

    I hope this helps!


    Steve

    Steve - Do you have any experience with the CWA conversion kits?

  3. I would recommend spending $25 on the Williams Firesite set and you'll be ready to go for RFRI.

    https://shop.williamsgunsight.com/ecommerce/p/wdos--ruger-1022-firesight-set-060213

     

    Stock fit is the challenge for RFRI.  Most AR type stocks put your head too high for iron sights.  The original 10/22 stock is a good fit for irons. You already know the trigger options.

     

    The cool kids run these $260 barrels:  https://tacticalsol.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=1366893&CAT=13324

     

    Here's my RFRI setup with a stock 10/22 leftover barrel.  I used a poor man's milling machine setup to mill a slot in the left side, drilled & tapped the bolt for a handle.  

     

     

    Enos.jpg

    Bolt.jpg

  4. On 11/13/2020 at 10:12 AM, Bagellord said:

    I am really, really sorry to resurrect such an old thread. But... how in the world do you change the mainspring on a Mk III? I bought a new one from Ruger hoping to solve some ignition issues (already changed the firing pin) with Eley Force ammo, but I cannot figure out how to take the mainspring out of the housing.

    Check out these 2 videos:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWyevfNcPKI

    https://ruger.com/videos.html?vid=131271684&cat=3769278

  5. The Hornady is 2 liter capacity for $105.

    The Harbor Freight is 2.5 liter capacity for $80 plus they always have 20%-off coupons .  I've used the Harbor Freight model for 5 years.

     

    They are nice to have on hand and don't take up a lot of space.  Wipe the major gunk off of parts before ultrasonic cleaning and your solution will last a lot longer.  I've also used it for small amounts of brass cleaning. 

  6. 1. Polishing is easy. It's not rocket science and it's a finesse task.  RPM speed isn't critical because you're going apply pressure slowly (remember ... finesse)

    2. If you have a Harbor Freight near you, they have rotary tools and tons of accessories for half of what you would pay in a big box store or Amazon.

    3. Here's an example of polishing on Glock trigger parts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_edmc5iih0E  Tons of other videos out there.

    4. Get some metal polish.  I use Flitz but they're all pretty similar.  Some guys even use toothpaste.  Just a mild abrasive. 

    5. Feel the part you're going to polish for roughness.  Sometimes you need to remove metal before polishing.  If you polish a rough Glock trigger bar, you'll end up with a trigger bar that's still rough but now shiny from being polished.  Remove metal by hand with sandpaper, nail files, metal files, not with your Dremel.

    6. Move other parts out of the way or cover them cuz the metal polish will fly all over your workbench.  A face shield also helps. I cup my hand over the Dremel bit when I turn it on to catch the excess polish.

    7. The safety plunger was much harder to round over than I expected.  Really hard steel.  I chucked it in a drill press and used various metal files to round over the bevel before polishing.

     

    Have fun.

     

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