bountyhunter

One of my reloaders (Home Ammo Direct) used to have a disclaimer on the front page to the effect: Glock Shooters Read This! It explained they would not be liable for damages in Glocks because of the unsupported barrels. FWIW: they reloaded .40 only in once fired brass they got from the local PD to make sure it wasn't old junk.

You are actually engaging the "recoil return" muscle set that brings the gun back down, but you are doing it before the shot is fired. I am starting to believe it's impossible to completely eliminate all forward movement of the gun during rapid fire (at least it is for me). As you said, slow fire you can lock it out. A good drill is as was suggested on another thread: I call it 'shot mapping". Load five and hang a target. Try to take a mental snapshot of the sight picture at each time the gun fires and make a map in your mind of where you think the shots will be when you bring in the target. In an indoor range, you can use the muzzle flash as a kind of background illumination of the sights at the instat of firing. Point is, in concentrating on doing that, you will quickly see if you are rotating the gun forward in anticipation of firing and you will be able to work on the timing of the trigger pull so that any forward push occurs ONLY AFTER the shot is gone.

I got some made with polycarb lenses that are huge and give complete protection (look for large frames). I like being able to use a Merit sighter and you can't do that with the bulky safety glasses over your vision glasses. "Having a real problem focusing on the front iron sight with my standard graduated lens glasses." A pro told me this (and I found it to be true): the glasses need a lense in the "sight eye" where you can JUST BARELY get a sharp focus on the front sight. Take a business card to the optometrist office, hold it out at sighting length, and have him reduce the power on that lense until you can read the fine print. That will give you maximum distance clarity and still be able to focus on the front sight blade.

Because when I shot an STI with an extended mag release at the last match I did not have this problem. Mag changes were flawless without changing my grip. So why should I have to learn to live with it in my Limited 10 gun if a $20 part will solve my problem? Or, you can "sweep" the left hand thumb across the button and release the mag as your hand is en route getting the new mag. probably not optimum for speed, but it definiteley gives a sure release. I have a deformity of the right hand that makes it difficult to "shift the grip" and I found sometimes I would rotate the gun and as I press the button, couldn't get it in far enough to drop the mag. Using the left thumb means no problems there. As for oversized buttons, Brownells has an assortment. I just bought the Ed Brown setup for my Para from Natchez Shooter Supply and I am very happy with it.

Ohhh, I so wish I had patented that. It is way cool.

DUDE!!!!! Tungsten versus steel? Maybe you could find one of those carbide tipped suckers we use to drill concrete.

Blame it on James Bond! Autos never got COOL until James Bond became famous. In the early 60's, wheelguns were the epitome of coolness. My dad was in Air Force Police and they were issued SW model 19's I recall. The most fun they had was walking up to MP's (Army guys who carried .45's) and saying: "HA-HA! We got cowboy guns and you don't!" The pendulum has swung the other way.......

If I read the info correctly: 100-001-284 .40 S&W/10mm, 9/10 Round That is a 9-round magazine in .40SW, or a ten-round mag in 10mm? Not sure how that's possible...... but the other mag is listed as: 100-001-281 .45 ACP, 7/8 Round How can the same magazine be both a seven and eight round mag?

If there is no take-down hole in the guide rod, buy one that does or haul yours to the nearest drill press (a 1/16" drill will work). You can buy a new FLGR that is pre-drilled for about $16. I think Dawsons Precision sells them? If not, STI can point you where to go because they put them in their guns. I can't acess gun websites from here so I can't post any links.

An interesting benefit I found from doing this is that I will wager you will almost always OVERESTIMATE how far off (from target center) the shot hits based on sight perception when you first start trying to read the POI from sight position. It's probably the main reason most of us get hypnotized on the sights and try so hard to get perfect alignment... and then yank the trigger at that instant which throws the shot off. This training will show you perfect alignment is not required, just getting the sights into the right zone and then executing a pull that does not move them. You just have to learn the boundaries of the zone and learn how to do a smooth trigger pull. I've been working on that for a few years now...

If I had a dollar for every person that statement applied to, I could retire. I'd probably be at the head of the list.

I just got two new CMC 10-rd .45 mags and used them in my .40 Trojan. These feed perfectly in my gun with no changes to the feed lips. They hold 11 rounds of .40 fully stuffed. Natchez Shooters Supply had them on sale for about $18 as I recall. They do hang below the frame about 3/4".

The mechanism was first described by Pavlov and later BF Skinner: any behavior that yields a positive re-enforcement is burned into the animal's brain. The reward of the forward push is that the muzzle tracks back down faster and your next shot is sooner. I have long since given up trying to "cure" it from my shooting, although I can program it out when shooting my .22 bullseye gun if I concentrate.

Can I infer from this that it's OK if there is a muzzle dip on a dummy round (or empty chamber)?

Here is a quote from matt Burkett's web site about recoil control: "The concept of recoil control or timing the gun (from the shooters perspective) is to subconsciously return the sights to the same spot. This is a neuromuscular firing of fast twitch muscles that occurs .04-.07 of a second after the shot is fired. Notice is said subconscious. .." So, if they pulled the trigger on a dead primer or empty chamber, would you see a forward push down on the muzzle from the "pre loaded" fast twitch muscles programmed to fire .04 seconds after the trigger pull? The reason I ask is that I generally do have a slight forward push after I fire on an empty (not realizing it) showing the programmed response of these muscles. But the REALLY GOOD shooters I see do not show that when they fire around the cylinder and shoot on an empty. I always assumed that the "rock steady" gun after an empty pull was what we were all trying to achieve..?

On a related topic: the Chip McCormick 10-round .45 mags feed .40 perfectly in my STI Trojan (and hold 11 rounds BTW). I also bought some CMC .38 super 10-rounders for my 9mm STI gun and they feed OK, but neither would drop free (must be going around?) I took a file to their backsides and now they drop just fine.

Taurus has an 8-shot .357 on their big frame. Last time I checked, they still used the coil mainspring on all their guns which basically sucks because it gives a stagey feeling trigger pull due to stacking and can also cause unreliable ignition. I am prejudiced in favor of the SW design, but admit their current quality is inconsistent. Find a tight used one and you have a better gun IMO.

"It would be great to be able to just take the grips off of the gun, field strip it, and then put the parts in a solution to do most of the heavy cleaning." If that's the target, get a gallon of mineral spirits from Home Depot and make a soak tank with a tupperware container. That will loosen most junk. Then brush it with a nylon brush until clean and then let the solvent evaporate off. I still think a soak in Kroil is the ticket for getting the bore crud loose.

Not sure what kind of crud you are trying to remove, but would recommend this: 1) Get a gallon of acetone from Home Depot. That is the best for stripping gunk off metal parts (it does dissolve plastic or paint). 2) penetrating oil like Kroil is a great cleaner because it gets under and loosens almost anything. let parts soak overnight and then brush them. I soak barrels in it and the bore fouling comes out with a nylon brush. 3) I have MPro and it's okay, but not as good a cleaner as Shooter's Choice or Hoppes. But, MPro does not smell like those so you get extra points with the spousal unit for not stinking up the house. I have a quart bottle of it but don't use it much.

Mkae sure the tip of the hook is square and sharp. If not, it's possible for the extractor to slip the rim.

OK. My point is that it's never smart to do something that automatically proves you broke the law (like getting high-cap magazines for a gun that you bought after the ban) because it's a no brainer that you would be dead in court. I have also spoken at length with the DOJ folks in sacramento, and was pleasantly surprised to find most of them like guns and DON'T like the stupid laws.... but, they are the laws never the less. I know people who have brought in mags for guns they had prior to the ban. Illegal, but impossible to prove. I know people who have brought in guns illegally, which is patently insane because those guns were registered in another state after the Kali ban went into effect... so there is a federal paper trail proving the crime. It's up to the individual about how much risk he wants to take, but don't do something illegal where the registration date on the gun sale ticket is going to convict you. That's making it too easy on the Gestapo.

No, I never said that. If you owned a gun prior to 1999 and have a bagfull of high caps for it, no LEO in Kali would even look at you and you would never have a problem. What I was saying is that if you acquire a gun now and somehow end up with a bagful of high caps for it, everybody is going to KNOW you acquired the magazines illegally because they know when you acquired the gun. The AWB of 1994 is not the issue: there are tons of preban mags out there with no serial numbers or "LEO only" tags on them. My point was that it's the 1999 Kali law that's the problem. After that date, no high caps could be obtained in any way by Kali residents, whether they are legal pre-bans or not. And if the cops check the registration on a gun you own and find out it's after the kali law took effect, then they know you obtained the mags illegally. Whether you'd be charged or not?

Me too, and it's not a blessing. If I yank one and miss the zone, it rattles me and breaks my concentration. I'd rather not be able to see the hits while I'm shooting.

8# DA is about right, I got mine down to about 7.5#. The SA pull on mine is 3# even. I'm not sure why yours would be 5#, you might want to measure it again. A simple two-piece polish and lube gets them down to about 3.8#, getting to 3# takes the finesse polishing.

Please point me to this forum and or these articles. Thanks!! I posted a request over on the Beretta Forum to have them post the illustrated trigger job thread where we can all find it. Check back later and look in the Gunsmithing section, maybe it will be a sticky. http://www.berettaforum.net/cgi-bin/ubbcgi/ultimatebb.cgi