McDaddy

During an Army war game a commanding officer’s Jeep got stuck in the mud. The C.O. saw some men lounging around nearby and asked them to help him get unstuck. "Sorry sir," said one of the loafers, "but we’ve been classified dead and the umpire said we couldn’t contribute in any way." The C.O. turned to his driver and said, "Go drag a couple of those dead bodies over here and throw them under the wheels to give us some traction."

My Father-in-law lives on Ker Ken Doll. Being in the Navy and travelling so much, I sometimes miss the madness of Houston freeways. Then I go home to visit and hate them all over again.

As mentioned in a previous thread, I am new to the Open game. I bought an older Para open gun, and was wondering if there was an easier way to field strip it. I took it apart (by removing the slide stop) when I first got it to eyeball everything to make sure that there were no obvious problems, and it took me forever to get it back together again. Maybe I'm just an idiot. I guess the question I have, is do you remove the compensator when disassmbling it or not? Without a barrel bushing, it relly threw me for a loop, the full length guide rod was giving me fits. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, -Mac-

Sorry about not replying for a while, the flu brought me to my knees. I guess I just need to get the weaver style and call it a day. It'll get the job done and give me added flexability (if I wanna put it on a AR-15 or something similar). Thanks for all the input. Flex, Don't worry about hijacking the thread. I'm not much of a Forum Nazi. -Mac-

The wilson mount will accept weaver type mounts, but I figured that the one with the integrated mount(serendipity I think) would be closer to the bore line and lighter also.

I just bought an older Para open gun, with a wilson combat scope mount. I was wondering if I bought a c-more, would the screw pattern line up?

What is the difference between .38 super comp and .38 Super? I read somewhere that it was the same except for the rim. Thanks for initiating a neophyte into the mystic world of the .38 Super.

I tried the auto wax thing. It didn't seem to do anything for me. I apparently have very caustic skin causing the brass to deteriorate at an accelerated pace. I can't really load an excess and store it. That is why I tried the wax to begin with. I guess water would bead up nicely though .

The V powder is pretty difficult to get in my area without paying the hazmat fee. I was thinking of using Titegroup. Any thoughts on this?

Can a typically mechanically inclined person change a comp or does it take an engineering degree? I have an old two port comp and would like to change it out to one of the newer, sexier type.

Also, I have heard that most people use a small rifle primer in the super, is this accurate?

I just bought an older open class para in 38. super. The comp has two ports on top, and two small ports on the side. Does anyone have any recommendations for a starting load ? I don't know if I should start with a heavy bullet or not with the new lower power factor. I am new to the super, but have heard that people usually use a small rifle primer. Is this accurate? Thanks in advance.

Will STI mags work in a Para?

CGR, I'm glad you will be posting a pic soon. I think you have been a real pioneer in the Glock arena. I lurk around several sites, and keep an eye on glocktalk. That's where I first saw your link. I would like to throw a little business your way, but the site is still kinda incomplete. I haven't seen any of the THE gear, and keep looking for the "open" area in the gunsmith section to be valid. Keep up the great work though. I will definately be contacting you as soon as my competition gun (G35) isn't my "house" gun.

Is the difference in SV/STI and Para worth over $1000? I was in the process of getting an SV, but couldn't justify it to myself. Maybe I'm just cheap....