bompa

I have a Sigma 9ve and think it isn't too bad of a gun.. Target pistol it isn't but as a rough use pistol and a house gun or woods and plinking it serves the purpose well.. The trigger is rather heavy and long but it does get better with use up to a point..I am sure a decent smith can do wonders for it but it just might be expensive.. The M&P is a step above,big darn step,but for us Mass residents the trigger isn't much better..Just what is allowed by the AG..

You could check the powder makers web site,most all will give loading data.. Generally plated bullets use data for lead bullets..Shoot them at a mild velocity and don't over crimp and all should be well..I would load them as long as your barrel and mags allow..

Brewski acording to the chart I have from Stonewall Bullets they make a 147gr RNL for the 38spec ,as a matter of fact I got some for the 9mm recently..

I believe Stonewall makes 147 gr LRN..

Your favorite striker fired pistol is perking right along and suddenly you get that dreaded click,no bang..You clear the round and inspect it..a very light primer indent..Load it again and try it,it goes bang.. Great now you start thinking that the striker spring must be too weak and this is going to happen more.. Maybe it is the ammo,of coarse you reload with care..Is it possible that you just might have a case with a loose primer pocket,brass that is on it's way out maybe..With a loose primer pocket is it possible that when you seated the bullet trapped air forced the primer out just a bit,high primer.. Does this sound possible ?? I think so..

The fact is that I can get 2K lead bullets for less than the cost of 1K plated and VV powder is not to be found in this area.. Plus I have been shooting lead for over 40 years and it is too late to change..

Thanks for the info Chuck.. It is a pleasant shooting load for all around use..Don't think it will clean a pin table though..

I just loaded some 9mm's with a 147gr lead bullet over 3.2 gr of bullseye with a OAL of 1.130.. No crono to check vel. but is not too snappy..Shoots real good in the M&P and a SS with an Oly. barrel that I put together.. Will try it in the CZ's and the SA SS with the Nowlin barrel and see what happens.. Both of the latter guns are terribly accurate so I don't see any problems.. As to eliminate the smoke I wonder if a thin card wad under the bullet would help any..I know that a gas check on the bullet eliminates most smoke and leading.. Wonder where one could get some card wads to try,maybe a black powder dealer?? Anybody have any thoughts on this subject ??

I have two Optima 2000 sights that refuse to hold a zero.. Is there anyplace to get them repaired at a reasonable price ?? Believe both of them are 4min dots,wonder if the dot might be changed to 8min ?? I recall using the two battery pack and found no difference in brightness,will have to try again with one of the surviving units..Believe that if new units are required I will go with the Fastfire..Think it is great and the price is better than the J-Point..

I put a J-Point on mine..Easy to do and works great..

Would it be possible to put a block or spacer in the mag..Maybe fit inside of the spring.. That way it could be easily removed if wanted. No reason why you can't drill that witness hole your self..

More info please..

Tried to get more info on that Lone Wolf sight and couldn't get any more than was on the web site.. Wanted to know what mount bases it would fit on and the distributor couldn't tell me anything.. Said they didn't know.. It looks like a sight that was offered by somebody else,can't remember who,a while ago. i It looked like a Docter,was called a Docter clone,but it wouldn't fit on any Docter bases and the dot was really dim..As a mater of fact it would just go out in a dim indoor range..Sent it back and then saw that it was no longer on that web site.. Don't know if I want to take a chance on this sight or not..If someone tries it I would like to know how it is..

Is there any price on that little devil ??

Are there any concessions for the super senior?? After all when you get that old body parts are not as mobile anymore and the eyes may not work so great either..

You might try Bullseye with that lead bullet..I have had good luck with it and it is listed in all the loading manuals..

Not sure just what is different but it sure does make a difference in trigger pull.. Must be springs and maybe the sear as I have read that it needs to be modified or replaced but Smith is supposedly not releasing them as parts..Need sear work send it back to the factory..They get $100-$125 plus shipping for an action job..

That Wolf red dot sight looks a lot like a sight that was marketed a while back as a Docter clone.. It looked like a Docter but didn't work like one..At least the one I tried and sent back didn't..As the light went down as in an indoor range the dot would get dimmer till it wasn't visible..Not good..

In Mass it is impossible to purchase a new striker fired pistol that doesn't have a 10lb trigger pull..Not by law but by edict of the AG..This is part of his child safety program..Another is what may be sold new in this great state..There are two lists of firearms that are salable in Mass,the first is by the DPS and lists all firearms that passed the safety testings,the second one doesn't exist on paper anywhere and that is what the AG allows to be sold after meeting some more stringent items..Also there is a ruling that any gun sold by a dealer,must be on DPS list,must have been made before 10-98 and and or registered in this state before that date.These rules apply to FFL dealers only,private sales by individuals is almost anything allowed by fed laws.. I may be off a bit in some places but this is the way things go here.. These rulings are so vauge that many manufactures just don't want to do business here,too much BS..

I recently acquired a MP9mm and it has the infamous Mass trigger.. All 10 lbs of it..Now I see that Wolff sells a reduced weight striker spring..Would this help with the trigger or just create problems?? There being no local smiths,S&W is down the road a bit,I would like to be able to do something myself.. Also wondering about the recoil spring,could I or should I go to a lighter weight spring ?? If so what weight should I try ?? Thanks for looking,hope to get many opinions and suggestions.. Henry

Don't mean to hijack this thread but I need so info that is related.. I just did a swap for a S&W M&P 9mm ..This gun has the Mass trigger,around lbs,and figure that dry firing would help to smooth out the pull..I find nothing in the manual on this topic whatsoever..I have a Sigma and have been told that dryfire does not harm it in any way so it has been dry fired like maybe a million times and shot quite a bit and the trigger did smooth out rather well..Still heavy but better..Was told on an other forum not to dry fire with out a snapcap..Must say snap caps are a pain in the butt and would prefer not to use them...I read that the M&P is getting rather popular and hoped that someone would set me on the right path.. Thanks Bompa

I am not sure I can make you smarter,could be a hard thing to do,but using the same loadings with both styles of bullet has left me with more leading with bevel base bullets..Perhaps the loadings are on the light side but have always worked for me..Fore example 4.0gr bullseye with a 200gr LSWC,flat base no leading and the bevel base mild leading.. So on examples like that is what I base my opinion on..Have been shooting that load for almost forty years with home made bullets and store bought bullets..Perhaps not a scientific explanation but what I have observed over the years.. That's my story and i'm sticking to it..

It is my opinion that bevel base bullets will lead the barrel more than flat based bullets all other things being equal ..

I have used this load since the late 60's and it has always worked well.. 4.0 gr Bullseye with a 200gr LSWC..

Back in the late 60's early 70's the National Guard turned loose some 45 brass only it was not brass it was steel with war time dates.. Well I for one would load almost aything and those steel cases were used where there was no chance of picking up the empties..