stardust tommy
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Posts posted by stardust tommy
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go with the CK, better parts (EGW hammer and better TS) and handbuilt.
I've felt the fit of the DVC open and the barrelfit was good but not perfect. a little wiggle between barrel and slide... trigger is verry good out of the box but still not perfect.
I have no experience with CK, but they have a good reputation
gr T
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I have one from a friend with a cracked Ti comp... never seen this kind of comp crack
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always cock the hammer with with the slide and not with your thump... you will notice a slight increase in triggerpull wich is more realistic
gr t
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load a round without the extractor and see if chambers
if it rides the link maybe you have a 3 point jam
and check your mags like Aircooled6racer told
gr Tom
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indeed, but you have to know how to adjust the spring. otherwise you might have a 4lbs triggerpull...
with my fix you also have to check your triggerpull but the adjustmenst are minimal
gr T
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you can make the sear spring longer... the trick is to bend the "lip" on the bottum from 90° to a 45° angle.
this is how you heat the spring in a (large) box with water so only the 90° lip gets heated up
heat if 3 or 4 times red hot; let it cool down and use a small hammer to tap the lip to 45°.
I believe Dawson has a special searspring for the 2011 grip
also make sure your trigger has as little overtravel as possible, but make sure the sear is clear of the hammer when it drops. to much overtravel and you can pull the sear to far back and the sear spring will slip under the sear
and make sure your grip bushings are tight!
The bend in the tip of the sear finger sits beside the sear, right? How does bending this out to 45 degrees make the portion of the spring that actually engages the sear longer?
the left spring is on the sear pushing it forwards so the seartip rotates to the hammer, by bending the bottom "lip" to 45° the spring can't move down and sits just a tiny bit higher. you just take the little amount of clearance away.
you don't bend the tip of the left spring that rest on the sear. in my picture you can see that my locking pliers or holding the left leg under water so it does not heat up
I hope this sounds clear to you, English is only my second language
gr T
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you can make the sear spring longer... the trick is to bend the "lip" on the bottum from 90° to a 45° angle.
this is how you heat the spring in a (large) box with water so only the 90° lip gets heated up
heat if 3 or 4 times red hot; let it cool down and use a small hammer to tap the lip to 45°.
I believe Dawson has a special searspring for the 2011 grip
also make sure your trigger has as little overtravel as possible, but make sure the sear is clear of the hammer when it drops. to much overtravel and you can pull the sear to far back and the sear spring will slip under the sear
and make sure your grip bushings are tight!
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for that kind of money I want a Koenig hammer or a EGW lightened hammer and I want a Bomar deluxe sightcut ( or is it a LPA?)
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Dustint21, thanks for the info...!
I try to check them out in the IWA gunshow in Germany in March (I live in Belgium)
gr Tom
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@dustint21
do you have some more info on the new sear design? and the new hammer?
gr Tom
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I hope the new DVC open barrel is available soon for some home gunsmithing
wil it replace the trubor barrel?
is the hammer "ultra light"....
can't wait to get more info on these guns/parts
gr Tom
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hi
I have built a few 9mm majors on STI parts with a lightened slide and trubor T1 barrel with a normal extractor and it functions 100%. even without the slide lightening.
important for an 9mm is how you prep the extractor and make sure there is no clocking. I use EGW oversized FP stopplates so I can adjust it to the disconnectors specs. I also tune the ejector...
I shoot minor with a 8lbs and major with 10lbs recoilsprings.
I use stock STI mags with the spacer, my loads are 29.4 to 30.0mm long and feed reliable
gr Tom (Belgium)
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you can shoot minor and major... but not without sightadjustment... difference is a few inches @20m
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I have a 929 for a customer and have some problems...
comp is damaged, front sight is damaged, action feels like it is filled with sand, gun won't fire DA loaded, there is a lot of play between the extractor rod and the cilinder...
I had to stone the hand a little smaller so it wil fire DA with rounds in the cilinder. without the rounds 1 chamber is out of timing, with 8 rounds the timing is right... lots of play in the extractor. I noticed there are no alignment pins anymore on the extractor/cylinder like my old 686, mod 10, mod 66...
for me PC stands for poor customer instead of Performance Center
gr T
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Les Baer made some 9mm longslides...
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step 1, look if the extractor is fitted tide with the firinpin stop (no clocking )
when you have a new STI extended 9mm ejector: I file a flat tip on the front with the "tip" not centered but 2/3 high. I also file the inside of the tip a bit to put the contact point a little bit more to the outside edge of the case.
I dress the front of the extractor so the case can roll of the extractor
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when you fit a STI slide to a STI frame you don't need the file.
I fitted 3 of those frames/slides and only needed to stone/mill the frame"s deck -.001" (some sandpaper on a glass plate and fut the frame upside down ), stone/mill the with of the frame rails and stone/mill th underside of the slide.
no work needed on the inside of the slide rails.
fit to the point when the slide goes halfway, don't knock your slide on with a hammer
gr T
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can you go to a 2lbs trigger with a 16lbs recoilspring? (.45) sometimes I have troubles when te heavy recoilsprings are in use...
I had a Norinco the had follow, the problem was solved with a searpin of the correct size. the factory pin was out of spec. when I checked the hammer/sear on a fixture all was OK. in the gun the engagement was incorrect.
gr Tom
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nice to read...
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use some paper tape and set it on fire... I used to use the carbid lamp but now I have some strokes of papertape in mij rangebag
even better is to use water based airbrush paint, it is matte black and holds better than soot, easy to remove afterwards
gr Tom
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sell the GM and buy a STI matchmaster, the money you didn't spent on the SVI use it to get some training or ammo... the matchmaster needs a triggerjob, a full length guiderod so you can tune your springs and maybe some extractor tuning.
2000 dollar on ammo makes you a better shooter, 2000 dollar on fancy coatings and exotic parts makes you look fast and cool on the range...
if you have the money go for the ammo and looks of the SVI, when they tink you are fast your opponents make more mistakes ;-)
T
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is it possible? does the sandblasting remove the hard chrome?
gr Tom
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I like C&S ultra light hammer or an EGW lightened or a Koenig hammer
STI sear with a true radius and cut the relief angle larger
C&S reduced power mainspring
STI titanium hammerstrut
STI disco (polished etc.)
this is a great combination and the STI parts make it a bit cheaper
drop in parts mean: dropped in a bag and ready to sell... there is always something to adjust
custom 9major
in Open Pistols
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I've build this one for a friend/customer