stardust tommy
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Posts posted by stardust tommy
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I don't read much about them on Bullseye forums and the Bianch cup topic... those guys shoot with the most accurate pistols... so I don't think the AET is a must to get an accurate pistol
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Snowflake, I thought you are from Norway or Sweden? the Swedish top PPC shooter Thomas Svensson has a ray pulver barrel in his X6 and with that barrel his X6 is a sub inch pistol on 50m, with the original barrel he was not that satisfied...
my Les Baer PII hard chrome is still verry tight after 15000 rounds of soft 200gr loads.
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I've done some top cocking serrations to...
I only use the front serrations on a std. pistol, my open pistol has no racker so than I use the rear to unload and show clear...
A pistol I'm building for the moment with top serrations
gr T
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do a search on joe chambers (chambers custom) his lug cutters, they are more like an endmill instead of the normal "scraper" lugcutters
they leave a nice finish
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nope, the CZ's are Zendl sight with a CZ logo...
I think still the same notch, have measure it
gr T
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yep, it's me :-)
I've sold more German import STI's than Belgian import STI's... and I'm a Belgian...
gr T
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I can't see the photo but there are 2 options
German import from Karl Prommersberger
or Belgian import of Paul Coppens who used to import for the Benelux.
Now Mark Van Mulekom is the new importer for the Netherlands and HPS for Germany. (if the STI pistols wil reach the customers)
Karl Prommersberger has the rights on the brand STI pistols in Europe, since he is in conflict with STI Texas and he now produces his own STI Europe Pistols it will take a wile before the new delivery of STI pistols (wich are already at customs) will be in the shops.
gr Tom
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hi (from Belgium)
I replaced a lot of original Shadow sights with the zendl sights. they need a 7.5 or a 8.5m high front sight. so the original is to low.
now they are available in different widths
gr T
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Hi
can someone explain me what the numbers on the CZ sears stand for?
are the sears of the shadow different than those of a standard 75? the TS and checkmate?
if there is a way how to recognize the differenses.
the problem I have is that I'm changing out the stock hammer for a comp. hammer (not CZ), did a few before and it all went well, now I have one that has hammerfollow. changed to a new sear (Shadow) and the pull is verry different (heavy)
gr Tom
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take a look at the Delta optical minidot hd 26
http://skawinski-optyka.pl/celownik-kolimatorowy-delta-optical-minidot-hd-26-pproduct-3035.html
also the same dot I think
gr T
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I don't know about the availability of German H&N (Haendler & Natherman) bullets in the US, here in Europe (Belgium) they are the go to bullet for many top PPC shooters.
http://totalammo.com/21-bullets
I know some shooters that have sub 2" groups @ 50 meters (not yards) with sig P210, S&W PPC9.
for us a verry good bullet for a fair price
gr T
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I believe it is a 1/20 or 1/24 twist with 7 grooves
gr T
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maybe also interesting for the accuracy junkies... check out the Bullseye L forum
there are some of the best shooters and gunsmith's
gr T
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this is the load of Thomas Svenson, one of the best PPC shooters in europe, he is shooting truncated cone bullets
Ammotech Tc 0.356 from Reimer Johanssen in germany or ammotech direct, 4,7gr N330 OAL 29,0. Will shoot realy good in a 6" 1/16 barrel.
his formula for crimp (2x case thickness + bullet diameter) - 0.02mm (we are metric guys ;-) )
his SIG X6 with ray pulver barrel shoots sub 1" on 50meters
gr T
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here in Europe a lot of PPC shooters use N330
also try 6.1gr power pistol (this is not a soft load)
gr T
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with iron sights do you use a 6 o clock hold or dead center?
gr T
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try without the extractor, if there is to much tension the slide loses a lot of momentum.
the standard extractor must be tuned correctly, the standard is just a drop in part...
also check if there is no extractor clocking, I like to use EGW oversized firingpin stopplates in 9mm 1911's.
you can get a good trigger with the factory triggerparts!
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drilling 3.5mm is to large for M4, use 3.2 or 3.3mm
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hi
the standard screws here in Europe are M4, but you can use 8-40 torx screws (brownells) , for M4 you drill 3.2mm, for the 8-40 4.5mm
I would use the standard M4 screws, if they are worn out convert to 8-4. if bought in the US the screws are most ikely not metric
I have small hands and I put the thumbrest in the first hole, depending on the position the thumbrest blocks the slide stop. I use blue loctite on the thumbrest screw and red loctite on the others
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try without the gripsafety installed
try with the original grip
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cutting the secundairy angle is to reduce drag by removing metal, so the material is gone... you can do it with K80 sandpaper/ course stone
gr T
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place the sear on a stone with a .040 shim under the sear (most say a .020 is good, a .040 is better ) and stone the secundairy angle more (if there is one) untill the creep is gone
http://www.gunception.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/1911-Sear-45-Degree.jpg
make the hammerhooks .020 to .018 (before stoning the sear)
if you don't have a stone use sandpaper on a flat piece of glass, put even pressure te make shure you keep the cut even left to right
gr T
Cylinder and slide hammer
in 1911-style Pistols
Posted
get a koenig hammer from EGW or the EGW lightened and safe some money, buy the C&S for the looks
T