stardust tommy
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Posts posted by stardust tommy
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take the long leg with pliers, put a punch trough the hole of the spring and pull the punch to bend the spring
gr T
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10 hours ago, mro111lland said:
Prety sure mine had this isue link wore real fast. Replaced link pin and link after 10000 rounds the factory link was 1 step longer than stock I installed stock link
after installing a shorter link make sure the barrel stops against the VIS of the frame and doesn't hang on the link.
pull the slidestop out and instal with the lever hanging down so jou can wiggle it...
pull the slide back and push the barrel back against the table and wiggle the slidestop, it schould move free without resistance. if you feel resistance the barrel hangs on the link instead of stopping against the VIS.
sps are good pistols for their price.... a friend of mine had a vista with an out of spec frame (pistol went full auto when the trigger was released and the grip safety came loose). Know he is waithing for months for a new pistol (Europe)
Tom
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got some news from the Brownells staff
New style is larger (8-36).
Bottom tap #395-836-003
gr t
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the yoke screw assembly is a larger size. the 686-2 and lower dash numbers have a 5-44 screw for the yoke (wich is the same as the sideplate screws
this revolver is a 686-3 and has a "screw assembly"
I thought I posted this in the revolver forum... sorry for my mistake
gr T
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Hi
does anybody know the correct thread size for this screw? I've contacted Brownells and they send me the tap for the sideplatescrews...
gr Tom
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always make sure that there is enough trigger overtravel so the halfcock notch on the hammer does not make contact with the sear.
you can check this by guiding the hammer forward and feel if there is contact
gr T
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I have a new (100 rounds) SPS Pantera in the shop for a trigger upgrade...
found out that the SPS pistols are riding the link for lock up
http://i66.tinypic.com/2814krd.jpg[/IMG]
when you keep the slidestop in the pistol but with the lever hanging down the pistol will allmost not unlock... you need 2 hands to pull the slide back
gr T
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when you use a comp the front of the slide is cut under a 1° angle or you have to to make a bigger gap between the comp and the slide. there must be a small amount of play between the slide and the comp.
when using a Trubor barrel the chance is there that you have to cut the slide to lenght (cut the barrelhood to match the slide and you will see that the barrelhood won't touch the breachface. so you have to trim the slide... so when you want to use your bushing barrel again there will be a small space between the bushing and the front of the slide
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a group from this afternoon with the hexagon bullets in my own build custom with 1/16 KKM barrel
I'm not that great shooting 2 hands unsuported, 10 shots 25 yards on a reduced PPC target. I called the 3 bad shots (lot of sidewinds). aiming at the center of the target, not a neck hold.
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If I go that far they must be good :-)
for me thats only 1h driving
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yesterday I was at the Geco distributor in Belgium and picked up a box of 1500 hexagon bullets...
today tested 1 load of 4.7gr N340 at 25yards. verry accurate, mild recoil upwards instead of the "sweep" of a 115gr.
cycling is way smoother than with tuncated cone bullets
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there is a youtube video of JJ racaza schooting the prime ammo. I believe they chrono 1070 fps in his Tanfoglio
gr T
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http://www.primeammo.com/9mm-luger-hexagon-124gr.html
maybe worth to give it a try, this ammo uses the "new" hexagon bullet from GECO Germany used by Ralph Vanicek to win several European PPC matches.
here in Europe the bullet gets verry good comments, also in 9mm carbines
gr T
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I have just bought 5 Mec Gar 10rnds magazines for my 6'' 9mm... I only load 6 rnds for PPC and they work fine. loaded to full capacity the first round would not feed. not a problem for PPC.
I have a 8lbs recolspring and a cut on the disconnector rail so the slide won't loose to much momentum to push the disco down. also did some slide lightening to increase speed...
Is here some experience with variable recoilsprings in 6" 9mm 1911 pistols? I think a 10 lbs variable spring would give a bit more feeding reliability (from slidelock)
gr T
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on the SVI above there was an AKAI thumbrest/slidestop, way better than a DAA thumbrest. with the Akai you can use the front cocking serrations, the DAA gets in the way
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with the correct magwell and gripsafety it will fit the box
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yesterday was training time... switched back from a Davis grip to a Hogue monogrip... after adjusting the sight I shot my personal best! 593
the 50y (meters) we shoot on a reduced target at 25 meters, the 7y we shoot on 10meters
gr T
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I can only find a 2MOA version on different European sites
gr T
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is this a C-more product or a rebranded Delta optical minidot 26 from Poland
gr T
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I think you are better off with a complete top. those breachfaces come loose, screw breaks... and you have to correct sights between a caliber change, switch extractor, switch ejector.
and normaly the firingpin stopplate is fitted to the extractor to minimize extractor clocking
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the breachface was not loose, the broken part of the screw that was still in the breachface had some Loctide on it. I have used some heat to get it out...
I think if you want a perfect pistol you have to go to Jerry Keefer, David sams, Bob MArvel, Joe Chambers, George Heunig, KC custom... they build mostly Bullseye/bianchi pistols.
I think you will have a good pistol if you by an SVI, you will have a good pistol if you buy a Limcat, CK, Freedeom, Atlas... and sometimes there wil be imperfect pistols...
few months back I had an older Les Baer ('96 I believe, with a Springfield slide and STI/trip frame) high round count, hard chromed. it was still in verry good condition...
for me as a tuner/pistolsmith I look for how things are fit, a shooter looks at his scores to see if he has a good pistol... Eric Graufel shoots wit Tanfoglio... I don't like Tanfoglio production pistols.
gr T
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a broken piece on the back of the slide bad maintenance? explain that?
pistol is wel maintained and perfect lubed, often cleaned...
barrel has some marks of barrelbumb to...
SVI's are verry good pistols but they are just not the best out there... beautifull designs and a own view on how to build pistols.
the tought behind there FO front sights is great... but does not work. the "mirror" unter the FO is dirty after a few rounds and makes the front sight verry fragile. I often replace them with Dawsons...
I do repairs, tuning and build customs... the pistols I see are mostly pistols with malfunctions
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pics of the slide
just above the extractor is a piece broken off
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I have a SVI from a customer, 5.4" wich I have to swap the steel grip to a polymer STI grip...
All the SVI's that I've had in the shop have light triggers... with creep. I'm a bullseye/PPC shooter we work the trigger instead of jurking the trigger...
I did some shots with the SVI and the screw that holds the breachface broke... done shooting
the gun is with a bushing barrel... for a pistol of that price the bushing must be tight! this one is to loose, I can turn and remove it by putting my vingertip in it...
also the slide/frame fit is not bad but not tight, the barrel has some play in the slide...
a small piece of the slide just above the extractor is broken off
so I'm not that impressed with this SVI, is not a bad gun but I have seen better for the price. there must be a reason u don't see them on bullseye/bianchi cup
Loctite
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
do you use some kind of anti seeze on the scope screws? this week I had an old s&w 29 with a scope in the shop, the screws were verry tight without tread locker.