stardust tommy
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Posts posted by stardust tommy
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I've been shooting 125gr HBWC from H&N for a while, great accuracy and mild recoil (3.1gr N310 should be accurate out to 50y)
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found this link
http://www.bullseyeforum.net/t815-38-special-full-wadcutter-stability
read everything from mr keefer on the net that you can find.
+/ 720 fp/s seems to be the magic number for 148gr HBWC... if you don't need to make any power factor
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if anybody have specific loads for Lothar Walther 1/10 twist barrels please let me know :-) (normal rifling)
for the moment I shoot 3.5gr VV N310 behind a 125gr H&N HBWC
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I have 3 PPC revolvers but wanted to build one myself
I like the look of the old school PPC revolvers...
http://i65.tinypic.com/2rfrq7s.jpg[/IMG]
first time out, needs a little more sight adjustment, a tuned load and a lot of triggertime... (50m reduced target, shot indoor)
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I have used S&W rebound springs as hammerspring, they are to long so you have to cut them to lenght (even a bit longer)
gr T
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Hi
I have a gunsmith license in Belgium, now and than I build a custom 1911/2011.
My STI distributer doesn't care about those parts because I'm the only one here that buys them... Whe have now Prommerberger wich made his own frames and slides of good quality but he is so busy I have to wait for 1.5 year for 1 particular slide...
I don't want to depend on those guys anymore and import the parts that I want myself. So I'm looking for an exporter to deal with.
I want good 1911 frames (STI, Caspian, JEM), good 2011 frames (STI, CK, PT,... (no Caspian)) and KKM barrels.
I know that some manufacturers of frames are here on the forum and maybe they can help me out, love to have a frame on hand that is not common here in Europe.
Brownells is an option but doesn't have KKM barrels...
gr Tom
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ok, found some info here on the forum, cut needs to be +-.030 deep, adjust the width to a snug fit.
I milled until the raised part (underneath) touched the frame, I did not go trough the plunjertube.
some pictures for who can use them, that what a forum is about!
gr Tom
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use a sharpy or candle sooth to mark the contactpoint, adjust
also check that the trigger isn't stopping against the gripsafety instead of the triggerstop
I check the function of the trigger without the triggershoe, so I'm sure if there is a problem it isn't the shoe but the bow
or contact Christoph
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Hi
I have a thumbshield that I want to install on a STI 2011 frame, does anybody have a picture of the cut out in the frame that is needed?
gr Tom
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I've been shooting the same gun with the same primers without problems for about 5-600 rounds...
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last year I switched from a 6" les baer PII 45 to a custom 6" 9mm (build it myself) for PPC (actualy we only shoot match5), my average was about 10 points higher with the 9mm.
I have shot 590+ on training with the 9mm, did not even get close to that with the 45 wich I have for about 10 years. the 9 is more controlable for me.
but I build the 9 like I wanted it to be, 6" slide lightened to les than a 5" slide, bull barrel for the weight, long frame, aristocrat sights... actualy a bianchi gun :-) without a prone pad
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these are the primers that went bang from the first time, good and deep indent
http://i64.tinypic.com/30wovh5.jpg[/IMG]
we have problems with frame and hammer mounted firingpins... primers are from 1 lot
gr tom
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I use a little bit of PTFE grease inside... maybe it is just a little to thick
when I adjust my 550 I put 4 cases in the shellholder, turn the screw down to where the shellplate won't turn anymore, back up a tiny bit to when the shellplate starts to turn again and lock the locking screw. this way the shellplate is adjust to that batch with the same headstamp...
gr T
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primers are fully seated (on a RL550)
it wasn't that cold +- 16°C (60°F)
today I tested Magtech and federal primers and no problems... maybe just a bad lot of primers?
gr T
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Hi
I have shot hundreds of rounds without missfires, carmonized hammer, stock mainspring, full compression (over 6 lbs triggerpull with 11lbs rebound spring)
yesterday we had a local pin match in an old fortress (colder, more humidity) and we had sudently a lot of misfire in 3 revolvers, al set up the same exept for 1 mod 64 with standard hammer.
I shot a 686-5 wich didn't misfire for the last thousand rounds, but I just switched to an C&S extended firingpin to test with less mainspringtension, but I schot with full compression of the mainspring.
I think it is a primer problem, al revolvers shot with primers of the same lot
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maybe you can try a 10x bushing
https://cajungunworks.com/product/10x-barrel-bushing-tactical-sport-7520tsx/
I see in the US a lot of PPC shooters use 115grHAP/XTP and power pistol (+-6.1gr)
here in Europe I see top shooters using XTP/HAP in different weights with VV N330, some of the top shooters use truncated cone bullets.
for the moment I shoot Geco Hexagon bullets 124gr, they are available in the US and Prime ammo loads them in their "target ammo".
With my load of 4.7gr N340 with the geco hexagon COL 28.6mm, I can shoot sometimes groups of 5 shots touching on 25m on the barricade. I have a custom 1911 with 6" KKM barrel.
gr T
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try a pvd coating (Tin, DLC, AlTin) it wil hold a verry long time and reduces friction.
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Did Robert Vadasz shot with a semi or a revolver?
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Thanks for the info...
I have a 40mm cold rold bar... I'll try to make a fake barrel out of that for practice
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wich sequence do you guys prefer when turning a barrel blank into a real barrel?
the Lothar Walther blank I will order will be +- 26", so I hope to get 4 6" barrels out of that blank.
the blank is 32mm (1.25") diameter and I will mill the sightrib into the top of the barrel (I like heavy round barrels). For the moment I don't know how the barrelblank is finished,so maybe only a light finish cut is needed.
can I use the the first and last part (1"?) of the barrel? I was told that benchrest rifle builders cut down the first and last parts.
is there a difference between the accuracy of a .38 or a .357 K-frame? I have a few mod 64 and a few mod13. now I shoot a 686 with .38hbwc and get great accuracy so the longer cilinder seems not to be a problem. The lenght of the barrels is different (the part of the barrel in the frame)
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we shoot plated 125gr HBWC from Haendler & Natherman (H&N), so any twist will work...
normal rifling offers the posibillity to shoot lead.
thanks!
Tom
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wich barrel do you guys prefer? SS or carbon steel?
I've bought a lathe with all the material to build myself a PPC revolver , the only barrels available here are Lothar Walther. They offer SS and carbon, normal land/grooves or polygonal rifling. Most current (european)revolvers that I see all use stainless polygonal rifling
can choose between 1/10 and 1/17 twist, I prefer the 1/10 for the HBWC...
I have a mill to so I can perform al the work myself
gr T
SVI RTS2 mount
in General Gunsmithing
Posted
Hi
is it still needed to drill the holes for the mount on a 1° angle?
I've done a few open pistols and didn't drilled the holes on 1°... no probs for an IPSC gun with modern mount and optic.
I have a SVI mount on hand (the one with the hexagon holes)