austin rick

So I have a GP6 that is giving me problems with light primers strikes. What is the chance I can get this gun serviced or even just buy some parts for it? Thank you, Rick

Does STI have an exclusive agreement with Grandpower that keeps anyone else from importing them? thanks, Rick

I most definitely would. Thanks, Rick

Thanks again for the info. Dawson made a front sight, but no adj. rear sight. I'm 54, can't see very well and really need fiber optic front and rear. I wish I could tell if STI was working on solutions or not. Still think I'll look for a used 6C. Thanks, Rick

Thanks for the info. I'm down here in Dawson/STI country and there are tons of 2011's, but very few GP's. Makes me wonder if there are production issues because STI has tremendous support of there other platforms. I'm looking for a used GP6-C before there aren't any at all. Thanks for you help, Rick

Has anyone else had any functional problems with their GP6? I have several STI 2011's and they're all 100% shooters. I know this is an import, but I'm shocked about " Granny's" post!

I've heard good things about the trigger and high grip position that keeps flip to a minimum, but it doesn't seem like many people are shooting them. I' been thinking about getting one and called Dawson and there not stocking them anymore! Does anyone know STI's position on keeping them in production? Thanks Rick

Well you got me! Did you measure each load? I regularly see +/- .2 gns on those powders. If I'm using them I have to tap the powder measure to bring that down to +/- .1 grains. Power Pistol is probably the best. Unique, Green Dot and Blue dot all give me trouble. I just prefer the spherical and rod shaped powders better. Personal preference I guess. Thanks, Rick

For powders, I always liked the Alliant family for rifles, but their pistol powders don't meter very well. I like the Hogdon, IMR and VV powders because they meter well. I agree with Ron on the bullet selections as well, with the addition of plated bullets as an option. I've loaded lots of Berry's 185 DSRN in .45. I've also been very happy with the precision moly bullets. I'm shooting those in 40 and 9. Lead seems to require more fine tuning with powders and loads to minimize leading in the barrel and excessive smoke. I got tired of messing with it for 1 or 2 cents a round. The load Ron suggested should be a good one. Thanks, Rick

I guess you're right in that I'm not really to the darkside yet. Thanks for the die and load info. I just sold a Taurus .45 so my hobby stash has grown a bit. I figure I'll be shooting in a few weeks. Can't wait.

Thanks Ron. It's going to take a while to fully fund this little project, but wanted to be sure I ordered the right stuff. As a newbie, it's easy to waste money going in the wrong direction. I have everything for my dillon except the dies since I've been reloading 9's and .223's on it. I'm looking forward to seeing what all is in the gun. John and I are talking later today about the gun and what he's been running through it. I'm headed over to the reloading forum for some load info. I'm surprised you haven't welcomed me "to the darkside"! Rick

It looks like you just about have to buy new whether its super or super comp. I don't see many shooters leaving either on the ground after the match! It's a big increase in cost over the 40's I'm shooting now, but that's the price of playing with the big boys.

So, I just picked up my first open gun and have a few questions. I see there are issues of feed reliabilty in 38 Super that may be resolved by the 38 Super Comp case. At the local matches I see both cases being used. Is there any reason not to tune your gun to and use super comp cases? My understanding (very limited) is to switch from super to super comp is simply a matter of extractor tuning. Thanks, Rick A-69327

Thanks for the photos. They actually look pretty nice and uniform for doing it all by hand. Thanks, RIck

When I'm at the range, I see everyone bathing their limited guns in oil. Usually break free, fp-10, motor oil. I've tried heavier oils like Tetra Lube because it's thicker and heavy on teflon, but it makes the gun feel lazy. I have used slide glide but it also makes the gun feel lazy. When I asked local shooters about the oil they say it minmizes and/or eliminates wear and the action remains "fast". What I especially don't like is the oil dragging all kinds of dirt & gunk out of the slide and into the frame, trigger, fire control parts. I still have some "light" slide glide and will go back to that until it warms up. I like the idea of not having to clean the gun after every match or practice! Thanks for the info in this thread, it's very helpful, especially to guys like me that are new. Thanks, Rick

Thanks. I haven't shot this gun during the summer, so I haven't experienced that yet. I didn't figure it would wear out, but if it starts to shift it would make sense that you would have to replace it. Let me know how the JB Weld works. Thanks Again, Rick

Could someone post a picture of the finished product when they get done? I'm very new at this and I'll still wondering why not just use skateboard tape.

I bought a gun from "General CHang" and it looks like it has coarse skateboard tape on it. Is the advantage of mixing your own to keep the grip diameter smaller than with the grip tape? I ask because the grip is almost too big for me. Thanks, Rick

If I'm not mistaken Virgil Tripp actually passed away a couple months back. His company lives on, but he will be missed by many.

I forgot to mention that you can cut the fingers off and just use the cut pieces as finger "cots" when you are reloading and just handling parts with the tips of your fingers. This keeps your hands from getting sweaty. Another trick is when you take full gloves off, let them turn inside out. They will dry and you can re-use them by turning them right side out and blowing into glove like a balloon. Sometimes I have to take mine on and off several times and hate throwing 3 or 4 pairs away in an evening. Thanks, Rick

I use them for reloading, but never thought to use them for handling the brass etc. Probably a good idea since everything has small amounts of lead residue. Don't forget to use when handling solvents, methanol, etc. as they are readily absorbed through the skin as well. Thanks, Rick

I have an all Stainless Kimber, tried the vinegar and peroxide and found out too late the only thing not stainless was the barrel. Yes, it was badly damaged. You could see the the original circular tool marks. Still shoots fine, but could never sell it without replacing the barrel. Since then, I rarely clean the barrel on it or my STI unless its a quick patch of chore boy to remove the chunks. Both guns seem to shoot fine with the moly in 'em. Using 4.5g N320 with 185's.

Read Ron Avery had a article in Front Sight Sept./Oct. 2008 or you can buy a lot of information on grip training on Ironmind's site. http://ironmind-store.com/ Here some books for you http://ironmind-store.com/Grip-Training-Program-for-Shooters/productinfo/1442-AV/ and http://ironmind-store.com/Captains-of-Crush-Grippers-book-Second-Edition/productinfo/1354/ Thanks for the info. I went to USPSA website, but didn't see an option to get past articles and I've only been a member since July 2010 (probably obvious!). If there is a way to retrieve it, I'd be most grateful for the link. Thanks, RIck

This has been a great thread. As a new shooter at age 53, I have made many new friends and I'm the only one that judges me by my scores (and I'm working on that!).

I have an IPhone 4 and the surefire app seems to be working fine. Maybe they have updated since your post. Rick