Crunchy Frog

Greetings from SC. I’ve been reloading since 1980, bought a progressive press (mine happens to be a Hornady LNL-AP which is somewhat similar to Dillon’s 650/750) after I started shooting CAS and Wild Bunch in 2010. Brian Enos was a Dillon dealer for many years so you will find lots of info about Dillon equipment on this forum. Many of my friends have Dillon progressives; I rarely hear or read any negatives. If you want to learn about different presses and other equipment I’d start at the Ultimate Reloader website and YouTube channel. Top notch. Lee has a new six station progressive press called the Six Pack Pro 6000. It looks pretty interesting. I strongly recommend the use of a powder level monitor on a progressive press, preferably one that does not require that you watch it. Examples include the Dillon Powder Check, Double Alpha Academy Magnetic powder check, and my low tech standby, the RCBS Lockout Die.

The first time I tried wet tumbling (a friend brought over his Thumbler's Tumbler) I used some .45 ACP cases that had not been deprived (I usually use a vibratory tumbler and don't bother depriming first). The cases came out of the tumbler looking new; I spread them out and air dried them for several days. Later on I dumped them into my case feeder and ran them through my LNL-AP progressive press. When I used that ammo in a match I had a failure rate of about 15%. My best guess is that there was enough moisture trapped in the primer pockets to kill some of the fresh primers. I bought a Universal Decapping Die and de-primed my entire stock of .45 ACP brass to make sure I got rid of the problem. Then I dried the brass in a low oven for a couple of hours. No problems since. I now have my own Frankfort Armory wet tumbler. I always recap before cleaning brass in it. (Sometimes I am lazy and use my old vibratory tumbler for pistol brass).

I have one and used it outdoors with good results so far. Someone suggested replacing the part of the tripod that attaches to the unit with a better quality ball mount. I'm going to ask a photographer friend about that.

Welcome from another Greenville area member.

Don't know about Dillon but I have the product in my Midway USA wish list and the available date keeps getting kicked out.

Thanks; I'll try your suggestions.

I happen to have two spare trays (one large and one small) for my Lee Auto Prime so I resolved to build a primer tube filler. I decided to start with the larger primer size. I pulled the tip from the Hornady pickup tube and found a drill bit that was a pretty good fit for the inside diameter of the tube. I noticed quite a gap between the tube and the body of the primer tray so I built up the space with some flat stock before gluing it together with Gorilla Glue. I made a cover for the open space between the round tray and the tube using clear plastic cut from a cup lid. I temporarily taped it to the clear tray cover. I have two problems with the "prototype". First, I have a few primers that flip over as they drop into the tube. This is a deal killer for me. I need to know that the primers are correctly aligned in the tube. I am thinking of shaving down the "walls" of the "channel" between the tray and the tube, then taping or gluing a clear plastic shield across the top. If there is not enough clearance the primers can't flip over. Any ideas on this? Second problem is that I noticed that the primers seem to stacking up near the top of the tube. My guess is that the primers are catching on the little "shoulder" or "lip" on the inside of the tube (where the pickup tip rests). If I fix the first problem the second may resolve since the primers are slightly beveled on the bottom side. I think, though that before I try this again I will either try to grind off the edge of the shoulder or I will cut the tube below the shoulder. I really want this to work. All input appreciated.

The more expensive micrometer insert allows you to write down the "setting" for different powder charges so that you can repeat them later. Always confirm actual weight on the scale for safety. The standard insert has a threaded adjustment stem but no markings. Advantage there is that you can buy a separate insert for each load. Lock ring keeps it from changing. You will get a standard insert with the press. Maybe try ordering the micrometer and see which you like better.

I have a Ciener conversion and like the 15 round mags. I've not been able to find them recently. I am not aware of any excess capacity mags for the 22-45. At the club where I shoot Steel Challenge many of the top rimfire shooters are using a Marvel Unit 1 conversion. Very nice. Otherwise among the rimfire shooters it is mostly Rugers and Buckmarks. I have a 22-45 with a Burris Fastfire II sight. I think I've had one malfunction.

When I ordered mine I wasn't sure whether it came with the rifle and pistol rotors for the powder measure so I ordered a pistol rotor. Turned out the press does ship with both so I had to return that item. As you said, the proper shellplates and dies are must-haves. I have used RCBS, Dillon and Hornady dies in my LNL-AP. I like the Dillon dies (I have that in 9mm) although I prefer the split lockrings over the Dillon or Lee lockrings. The Dillon die set does not include an expander die since that function is performed by the Dillon powder measure but if you use the Hornady powder through expander (PTX) or the aftermarket powderfunnel.com equivalent (one size supposedly fits all), you would not use an expander die anyway. You need something to get the packing grease off of the press parts. This is covered in Hornady's instructional DVD. They recommend One Shot Cleaner and Dry Lube (not to be confused with One Shot Case Lube). I would order TWO cans; you will need it eventually. If you buy the PTX you can learn from my mistake. There are two .45 caliber PTXs; one is called .451 and the other .452. I ordered the latter to load lead bullets in .45 ACP only to figure out that it is designed for loading .45 Colt and so it's too short to work with the shorter ACPs. You want the .451; here is a link. http://www.midwayusa.com/product/591544/hornady-quick-change-powder-die-powder-through-expander-451-diameter Also with the PTX you need this linkage although I THINK it now ships with the press (mine did not but there was a slip of paper saying they were out and would send one free on request and they did): http://www.midwayusa.com/product/959962/hornady-quick-change-powder-through-expander-linkage The press has enough bushings for one caliber. I agree with the fellow who said to order two ten packs. Cheaper in larger packs and you will need them. It comes with a small catch bin. I ordered the larger one and was glad that I did. It takes the standard plastic bins (I forget the name) so you might price check at your local hardware store but they might now have one in the "official" Hornady red. For changing calibers, you CAN get by with the single powder die that comes with the press but you would have to set up the powder measure die every time you change over. Best method is to buy a "Quick Change Powder Die" for each caliber. I made labels for each of mine: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/231522/hornady-quick-change-powder-die?cm_vc=wishList The measuring stem on the rotor can be removed with the press of a button. You can get by with the one that comes with the press and just re-set it every time you change your charge. Another option discussed here is to buy a micrometer insert. What I did was to buy a separate "standard" insert for each caliber. This allows me to leave the insert set up for my "pet" load in each caliber. I keep it in the die box. I have one extra that I set as I go. Here is a link to the standard pistol insert: http://www.midwayusa.com/product/631849/hornady-lock-n-load-powder-measure-handgun-metering-assembly?cm_vc=wishList I'd go ahead and order replacement springs: case retainer spring, primer shuttle return spring and the powder measure spring. Cheap and good insurance. Who wants to pay shipping on a replacement spring? Some people like to have extra primer pickup tubes. I might just order some Dillon tubes; they are less expensive and should work fine. I am planning to make one of the primer tube fillers shown on this site. Loading the primers with the pickup tube is a slow part of the process. A Hornady rep came to a local store and did a "clinic". He recommended putting a little lube on the cases even when you are using carbide or nitride pistol dies. You'll need to lube cases anyway for .223, right? I like the Hornady One Shot Case Lube, it is water based and not greasy. I chose the Hornady in part because it has five stations which allows you to run a powder check die (unless you occupy that station with a bullet feeder). I am a big fan of the RCBS Lockout Die. You set it and put it to work. You don't have to watch it as with similar products. A little more expensive but worth it, in my opinion. That should get your order complete. When it arrives, debur and polish the primer shuttles with some very fine sandpaper. You will be glad you did. Periodically clean out the powder shuttle area and the priming punch. One grain of powder or a little bit of grit from spent primers will cause those parts to bind up. Mine smoothed out after a while but when new it can be balky.

I've been shooting cowboy action for a little over two years here in Upstate SC; our regular match day is the 4th Sunday of the month. Last year we began offering Wild Bunch matches on the 5th Sunday in months "so equipped". Aside from the difference in the guns, Wild Bunch is distinguished from SASS by a higher power factor, longer ranges, and more reactive targets. I enjoy cowboy and I enjoy Wild Bunch. If you are in the area and want to check it out, we'd love to see you.

I have an LNL-AP. I've used RCBS, Dillon and Hornady dies in it, no problems. Take some fine grit wet/dry sandpaper and polish the primer shuttles before you use them. The priming system is sensitive to any fouling with powder flakes, old primer residue, dirt, grit, etc. I got into the habit of cleaning it out every couple hundred rounds. I heartily endorse your decision to buy the RCBS Lockout Die. If you use a four die set, though, you do have to use the PTX for expansion to make a station for it. I've had pretty good luck with the PTX in 9mm and .45 ACP. I didn't like it as much with .38 Special so I went back to using an expander die. If you use a PTX get the bracket that mounts on the powder measure to help fine tune the adjustment, especially if you load lead bullets. I added a casefeeder to mine after about six months. It is a little fiddly especially with certain calibers (the manual mentions .357 Magnum and I've read about issues with .40 S&W. For me it worked really well with .45 ACP; I'd give it a B+ with .38 Special as I get the occasional double drop. Have not tried the casefeeder with 9mm as I've not purchased the small size feed plate. Good news is that the press works well when new but even better when it wears in a bit. Oh, I also started putting a little One Shot Case Lube on my cases even with carbide dies; it does run more smoothly.

Certain costume-based categories aside, SASS rules do NOT require that a shooter wear a cowboy hat (or any hat for that matter) or cowboy boots. We had a new shooter who did not like wearing a hat. That's fine. Now, I don't recommend shooting in bare feet but work boots are fine. Combat boots or tennis shoes are not allowed but there are lots of other choices.

I use Hornady, RCBS, and Dillon dies in my LNL depending on caliber. My 9mm dies are Dillon and run fine in the LNL. The only issue is that the Dillon rings are not split lock rings and might not hold their settings in the bushings as well as the other brands. I don't load large quantities of 9mm ammo right now; if that changes I might buy a set of lock rings so that I can truly "set them and forget them". I have had only one die related problem with my press and (surprisingly) it is with the Hornady dies. My expander die will not adequately expand the shorter .38 Special brass to accept lead bullets. I called Hornady and they didn't seem to have heard this before. I told the tech that I had the die at maximum depression-contacting the shell plate and it was not doing the job. They told me to turn it down even further; I was skeptical but tried it; it did not work. Hornady's other suggestion was that I shelve the expander die and use a PTX in the powder measure die. I've done that but get the occasional (sometimes not so occasional) dented case mouth. I've since been using my old RCBS #2 die which has an adjustable expander plug.

You invited other comments and recommendations so here goes. I would not recommend a progressive press for a beginning reloader. I would start with a single stage press or perhaps a Lee Classic Turret and get some first hand experience learning each step of the process before you start tackling them all at once. You can buy the dies you want now because they will work in the single stage, turret or progressive. That's my two cents on a question you didn't ask. After years of reloading on a single stager press (mostly with RCBS dies except for Dillon dies in 9mm) I purchased an LNL-AP this week. I ordered a set of Hornady dies in .38-.357 even though I have a set of RCBS dies in that caliber already-they were on sale at Midway and with the 100 free bullets they were a pretty good deal. I am loading lead bullets for CAS. I've noticed that the Hornady #2 die does not flare the case near as much as my RCBS expansion die. I have the Hornady die at "maximum depth"-it is touching the shell plate to get the amount of flare that I want. If you are going to use the "powderfunnels.com" product you will probably not use the expander die anyway. I was not 100% satisfied with the performance of the RCBS seating/crimp die (or the sizing die for that matter) which is why I sprung for the Hornady dies to begin with. At first I was having trouble with some bullets tipping over as they were entering the Hornady seating die. I ruined about 6 cases out of my first 100. Then I swapped the seating stem which may have cured the problem. For some reason Hornady and RCBS pistol caliber dies (like .45 ACP and 9mm) are three die sets that employ a roll crimp. Each company sells a taper crimp die (I have one for my RCBS .45 dies). Later when I bought a 9mm pistol and needed dies I bought Dillons because it had a separate seat die and taper crimp die. Of course I didn't cotton on to the fact that it did not include an expander die (since of course the Dillon powder measure performs that function) so I still had to buy a fourth die (got one from Lee). Lee offers a four die set for pistol calibers but I have read that Lee dies may be too short to operate properly in the LNL-AP. Have not tried it myself. The Dillon dies might be a good choice since you won't need an expander die. I don't have a 9mm shellplate to try mine.