dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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I am looking at building a 6mm-6.5 Grendel in the future. I think this also might be called 6mm AR. Remember that when you go with a ctg like the Grendel or 7.62x39 etc., something with a larger bolt, in the small AR platform you really start to stress the system. years ago when guys started messing with .22 and 6mm PPC. They worked but the weak point in the system was the bolt. I believe a Grendel bolt face is a little smaller but its still the weak point. I do think that the factory Grendel bolts should be a little better as they are made larger and then hardened. When and if I build my rifle I am going to keep reminding myself that I am loading for an AR which means that I will not be able to push as hard as in a bolt gun and to be gentle on the system.
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You are going to make or break your weight when you look at, an in order: Barrel, hand guard, stock, optic/mount combo and comp. You would be surprised how much your optic choice makes an impact. The comps get heavy too. You could go with a 14.5 barrel and pin a comp but now you need a heavier long comp and you loose some flexibility. Aero precision makes a no FA upper and that will save a little.
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I kind of am liking the no BCG group with a adj gas idea as it allows you to select the carrier you want full, light or otherwise. The issue this will cause is that unless you provide a bolt and test fire with a proven bcg you are at the mercy of the customer as to what he puts in the rifle. As we are all aware there are lots of parts out there that are out of spec. If you get a customer that puts a POS gun show BCG in the rifle and it does not run then you might have issues.
I still think the no BCG is the way to go, you would just need to put in a disclaimer.
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I still don't think that it makes financial sense to turn down the barrel. If you have a lathe and can get it done for free you might consider it. I know that if you turn the barrel you will save weight. I think that if you turn the barrel it will not shoot as well.
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40g h4895 168g SMK
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I got huge velocity variations with WW231 in .40 loaded to major with lead. 75-100 Fps ES unless I used SR primers. I ran out of 231 and never looked back.
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Port door or not? Yes
Forward assist or not? Not required and will not work with most lightweight carrier
Light as possible, or not important? should be fairly light with weight coming from a light-medium 18" barrel
In addition to barrel length, gas length, contour, and twist? Fluted? 18" rifle gas light medium contour. No need to flute as the cost adds up.
Ship with no comp so customer can pick their own, or a proven, practical design like the Miculek that can be replaced if customer wants different? Ship with the Miculek or one comp as the standard with option to remove.
Extended latch (gunfighter, raptor, other, or factory)? BCM small latch CH
Brass deflector, or weight savings? Yes
Light carrier and adj gas? Yes to both
Handguard length? 15" Carbon fiber
I would think that you need to keep cost down to be competitive and some options add up quick. Options like a fluted barrel add cost quick. A side charger adds cost to the overall build. I don't want or think in need a side charger.
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In general it is not really worth it to turn down a barrel. That Wilson Arms cost 200 or so and you are going to spend 50-100 turning the barrel down. Also consider that if you now have an issue with the barrel you are stuck. A Wilson Combat barrel, if that's what you have, is 250-275.00. I suggest that you just sell the barrel and buy a lighter profile if you want a lighter weight rifle. You do not want to mill or machine flats on the site of the barrel, if you want it lighter you need to turn it down. I also don't know how Wilson makes their barrels but they might rifle them after they finish profiling them. If this is the case then machining the barrel will relieve stress and could alter the bore so it might not shoot as well.
My background in LR and NRA target shooting tells me that weight invested in a barrel should be a good investment. Heavier barrels are stiffer and should shoot better. They should be able to absorb a higher rate of fire before heating up. I don't know and I would have to do the math, but due to increased surface area I should think they cool at the same rate as a lighter weight barrel. I suspect that once you get a scope on the rifle if there is not one on there now things will balance out a little bit.
I am still in the process of selecting a new barrel for my mostly lightweight rifle and I will not want a ultra-light weight barrel and Im looking at a 20" barrel. I have saved weight with a light comp, light scope mount and light handguard.
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Thanks for all the input. I have also found American defense from DSG.
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+2 on the Hornady 55s. there is a huge difference in 55 FMJs, they are not all made the same.
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ALCON,
I am unsure if this kind of data has already been compiled at this point. Intermittently through the threads we discuss velocity for a given barrel length with XXX ammunition. I am interested in compiling this data. While I shoot mostly reloaded ammunition, I am most interested in only factory ammunition as there are simply many variables with reloads for comparing velocity. I suppose if I had a choice, we would all shoot Federal M/XM193 with a 55 FMJBT loaded at 5.56 pressures as I think its one of the more popular and available out there.
Please list:
Barrel make, model and length and any notes about the barrel such as "New" or "well worn / old"
Ammunition type with bullet type and weight
velocity and temperature
Example:
18" Daniel Defense STW, well worn
Federal M193 55g FMJBT (5.56)
3100 FPS 75 F
Thanks for your support. I expect that this will provide us some statistical evidence on velocity performance by barrel manufacturer, length and special coatings or options.
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COAL will effect pressure quickly. Provided your bullets are jumping, .01 or so either way will not make much a difference. If you usually load your ammo a little long and then load a 77 short, like factory FGM, then you will increase pressure a little bit. You will be hard pressed to get excessive headspace from sizing a case too much. I doubt that you will ever size a case down to factory specs. Remember that temperature and humidity effect pressure. Yes, reading primers is not a good indicator of pressure but its about all we have to go with along with watching for marks from the extractor.
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If you want to have the possibility of running a can you will have to use a AAC mount, its that simple. I suspect, but don't know, that a AAC comp will be moderately to highly effective. It has two baffles but has no jets or ports on top. you will likely never shoot enough to wear out your can but the comp will take some of the abuse that your can would otherwise absorb. I highly suggest that you put an adjustable gas block on before you pin and weld the comp and make sure that its 16.1 OAL when assembled.
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Clocking the comp to 1 will work. Alternatively you can make the top right side port larger (as you are aiming the rifle) and keep opening it up a little at a time with a dremmel.
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Call be a skeptic but I doubt a 8K-10K barrel shoots groups like that...any barrel. I'm not calling anyone a liar, I'm just a skeptic. Also, is this a one off group, sometimes the wind blows them together.
Interesting comment about melonite increasing velocity. Years ago molly coating bullets was the big thing. Its not very popular these days as there was not much evidence or an improvement in performance. D Tubb has his own similar process and says it helps so i'm not saying that there is nothing to it. Typically with a molly bullet you had to increase powder charges to get the same velocities as the reduced friction decreased pressures.
Some barrels are faster then others so I would think that the same barrel without melonite would be as fast or faster. Tight bores and short leads also increase pressure and velocity.
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Really..... This is a competition shooting forum..
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The three things that matter most: barrel, trigger and optic. You should spend good money on these three parts, the rest is gravy provided you buy quality parts.
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Go with a Dillon 550 or 650. the 550 is less to get into and in truth its not that much slower to load on then the 650. I have doth by the way. Its not hard to find a used 550 or 650 out there.
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Please enlighten all as to your results with this barrel.
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unless you are shooting IPSC in Europe that is, they have a SD and or ES requirement for ammo.
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I need a new mount for a 34mm LEUP MK6. High on my list is Larue and Warne. Any other popular options that I have overlooked?
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Interesting, I have found big name red box bullets with jackets malformed and folded over too.... it happens. Oh yea, I also found a .264 bullet in a box of .243 bullets in another red box. Good that you caught it.
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Measuring the expander ball will mostly give you a good measurement. The brass will spring back a little and the end result is that the ID of the neck will be a little smaller then the expander ball by .0015-.0005 or so.
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I second the motion to go and shoot, It is much easier to "slip" and break a shot with a 3 lb AR trigger under stress then it is with a MIL spec trigger. You have to learn a little control to go with a light trigger. Go and shoot, after a season or so, you will have a better idea of what you want and or need. This will also help you save money on components that you don't need or only add a marginal level of system improvement.
One of the BEST things you can do is make sure the rifle is well lubed with good magazines and ammo; nothing is more frustrating then a gun that will not run.
Best price on 223 bullets?
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
It is not actually the soft point that your rifle "likes" but rather the flat base bullet. most of the time short range BR shooters use flat base bullets for this reason, they shoot the best.