dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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Provided you don't want a Gucci side charger or something like that most any upper you can find will work just as well as the others and be just as accurate.
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Holey smokes, what are you using to drive 55s to 3300?
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One of the best predictors of barrel life is powder capacity and bore diameter. More powder = more velocity and less barrel life. The size and the shape have something to do as well as shoulder angles.
Reference yellowfins question about the 6.5-06 for barrel life, I would expect that its on par with a 6.5x284 but I don't know of many people that shoot 6.5-06 for long range shooting. Its a little on the long skinny side and I think there are better options available if I was going to build a rifle.
The 6.5x284 offers performance in a short action with very good brass available. I should think that in a more "tactical competition" environment, fewer shots in a given period, that barrels would last longer as they have time to cool off a little.
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I hope you have found some powder to start loading. There are lots of powders that are going to work in the .308 with mid bullet ranges. Provided you can find them, it only gets a little more tricky if you are starting to load lighter then 150g bullets like 125s or heavy bullets in the 180g+ range. I tried some 125g bullets in a 24" bolt gun with 4895 and it is on the slow side, it works but its really a little too slow. In .308 I have used several powders with great success including N135 with 155 2155 palma's bullets but I mostly shoot Varget with 155 Lapuas now. I plan on switching to H4895 as it should be a little more consistent but I cant find any at this point. In most guns you need to seat the 2155 or 2156's (old and new 155 SMKs) close to the lands and they usually don't take a jump well but there have been good results with them in SOME magazine fed guns; I would try a small box of 155s before buying any more. I think that its been said but ill say it again, 168 and 175 SMKs should be very easy to get to shoot well in almost any rifle. You are starting with a 16" barrel so you are going to loose some velocity so keep that in mind too.
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Even a blind squirrel finds a nut. Jerry did it with a 9mm. Given enough .22LR anyone can do it too.
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Last idea that I have is that there might be an issue with the compensator that you are using on the rifle if you are testing with it on the rifle. There are claims that if a comp is on too tight it can effect the bore but im not 100% on that idea, there is still plenty of metal. Also, if there are imperfections in the comp I suppose it might effect things too. Pull the comp and try shooting a group.
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I suppose that when I read this post the question asked was a more technical as opposed to philosophical one; The question asked is how slow you can push a 55 and get your rifle to work as opposed to the merits there of.
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If you look on the line at an NRA match you will see lots of Kowa scopes. They are very good glass and worth what you pay. You will quickly find that magnification is not everything and that at a certain point no scope is going to work to see bullet holes when the mirage kicks up. About the max magnification that you will see is 25X. You are also going to find that focus with lower end scopes at the high end of magnification gets tough and sometimes it does not work at all, that is to say you just cant get focus with that power on that spotting scope.
With a sky background 300 yds is about as far away as you can see bullet holes with any spotting scope out there.
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ALCON,
I have an AP custom UL 15" handguard on my new 3G build. I want the ability to mount a bipod and or possibly a vertical grip on the rifle in a QD fashion if at all possible. To do this I would like to mount a short rail section on the bottom of the handguard close to the center. How might one suggest that I do this? I have no experience working with carbon fiber. I should think I could mount a rail section that AP sells on the bottom of the handguard by simply drilling a few holes in the bottom and mounting the rail section as opposed to through the slots in the handguard.. Any issues with this?
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The black brass is from a WIN tactical load. I don't recall which one it is or was.
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There is no correlation to temperature and bullet weight. Since we don't know how many rounds you are shooting in a group, we have to assume its something more meaningful then a 3 round group. We also don't know how far away you were when you shot the .6, .4 and then 1.2 and have to assume it was at 100 yds. I suspect that you "got lucky" with the first groups, especially if they were 3 round groups and the 1.2" is a better measure of rifle/ ammo performance.
In general most rifles are going to have some kind of change in POI or accuracy as things heat up. this is why I am a little skeptical of uberlight barrels. At some point things heat up and parts tighten up, expand and or shift. Sometimes this is not an issue but with most barrels there is going to be a difference most of the time. Think shooting a 10 round group with from a cold more then shooting a 10 round group after two magazines. Heck, I had a 24" varmint gun that if the barrel was too hot the bullets would explode in the air and when cool make it to target, I have no idea why other then something expanded or shifted in the barrel to give these results.
If you are getting better results with a more rapid cadence consistently with you rifle set up I suggest you look at the parallax adjustment on your scope. If you shoot a rapid group you are more likely to keep the rifle shouldered and the same sight picture; with a slow group you are likely taking the rifle down from your shoulder and when you bring it up, you looking through a different part of the scope.
The other thing to consider is that your process is allowing the barrel to cool but at the same time you are heating your barrel up by keeping a round in the chamber. Since we don't know what powder you are using with 77's and WW748 is a little fast for 77s, we have to assume you are using a different powder and its probably temperature sensitive. That 30 -40 second "Cool down" is in reality an "ammunition warm up" and that load might just not shoot as well with that extra 50-150 FPS from the warm powder.
You would need to single load the 77s for a "cool ammunition" comparison.
I am not doubting that there is something going on, your rifle might shoot those 69's better and it could be as simple as that.
I could continue, good luck.
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Good luck, it will "work" until it stops abruptly working or the zero wanders. What you get with a real aimpoint is durability and reliability.
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Just use the primers that are in the cases.
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its fine for 30 min or so
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Try seating them to magazine length and see what happens. I don't think you will see a difference in an honest average group.
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The longer the gas system, the longer it will take for the system to start unlocking. Pressure will be maintained in an ever decreasing rate in the gas system until the projectile exits the barrel as available space for gas increases. The longer the gas system the lower pressure the system will operate at. A smaller gas port or adjustable gas block will adjust the volume of gas, not the pressure.
There is a point at which getting the gas port too close to the muzzle makes things not work as there is not enough dwell in the system to make things work.
On a hot rod like the .260 I would think longer is better, that's one hot rod ctg. and you are going to be dealing with lots of gas in that .308 designed system. I should think that who ever made the barrels has made the systems work with a longer system and or a smaller gas port. I believe DPMS now has a 6.5 creedmore upper so they made it work but that .260 improved has more powder in that case and your using slow powders to make it sing.
When David Tubb started experimenting with a .260 in a AR-25 years ago he had all kinds of issues and blew up at least one rifle. Soon there after he went to the t2K, a bolt gun.
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There is a difference between creep and a stage on a trigger. My understanding is that an AR gold trigger is a single stage trigger. Can someone enlighten me.
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I have several rifles with several triggers in them. On my NRA service rifles I have a two stage Krieger and a rock river. Both are 4.5lb triggers. Both have long first stages and a noted stop before the second. I tried shooting with the RR in my first three gun rifle and I did not like the long travel. For the action shooting disciplines I prefer a single stage trigger that's not too light. My 3G rifle right now has a CMC and its been working well.
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I just use a small brush and a pan.
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I have NOT tried MR2000 in .308. I think that it might be a little on the slow side and would think that it would work with heavy bullets in .308. I think that I read something about it being a little slow with lighter 175g and such bullets and you could not get the velocity you want. RL15 in .308 works fine but it is temperature sensitive, for 90% of shooters this does not matter and its over thought.
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I would sort the ones that don't quite drop all the way down. They are most likely just fine but it does not hurt to be extra sure about your ammunition. A small base (not low base) die might help. I suspect the loaded rounds that stick up a little would go down in the gauge with a little pressure and were shot out of a rifle with a little bigger chamber, in spec, but a little on the big-within-spec side of things.
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24 is already getting close to high pressure w. TAC and 77s. 26 would be over the top in my rifles.
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Its not quality control, its ease of marking. Barrel know what their twist rates are and how and why they made them. Much sleep should not be lost over this. This is a bad barrel, I don't know what's wrong but I would send it back.
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I like the bb guns in the gun rack to keep the mice at bay!
SBR
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
There is a no-pay stamp if and when you inherit an NFA item. I don't recall what form that is. You can transfer a NFA item that you manufactured to another person on a FORM 3 or 4, so if I made a SBR and sold it to you it could be done if we worked through a NFA dealer. If you have an item in your name and want to put it into your trust then you would have to pay another 200 to transfer it from you to your trust.