dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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While I understand that .223 loads are off topic for this thread and yet we continue...ill add that I too have been shooting TAC with 77s for some time now and its been a real performer in several rifles.
Getting back on topic; any resolution on this barrel?
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Might I suggest that one needs to look at the ES of their ammunition to evaluate if the scale they have works. If the ES is low then your scale is proper. I don't think that you are going to see effects on target of thrown vs weighted or a .2g spread until you get past 300 yds or so. What you are going to have to rely on is looking at the ES and to a lesser extent SD numbers. My ES and SD is a little higher then what I might like it to be. I intedd to buy a new scale when I get back, I have an old basic RCBS at the moment, and what I don't know is that if I weight 100 charges and they all say 24.2, are they all really 24.2 or is it more like 24-24.4. Years ago I bought a cheep electronic scale and it might have cost me a natl championship, after I got home and pulled bullets, me meticulous weighted powder charges were +- .3g on my balance beam scale.
My plan when I get my new scale is to load 10 rounds with powder weighed on old and new scales and shoot them all over a crono and see if there is a difference. Speed and convenience are also a factor with a new scale and it is easier to read an electronic scale. To date my electronic scale has only been reserved for weighing bullets and brass.
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For years I loaded most everything on a 550. I now have a 550. It is faster to install a tool head on the 550 and just run a single sizing die then it will be to use a single stage press. The reason its faster is that all you will have to do is insert the brass into the press and rotate as opposed to insert and take out; its a more efficient motion. Also, the Dillon press is fairly stout as compared to several others so you don't loose anything.
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That is not what that funnel is for. That funnel sits inside of the AT500 powder die so that you can drop powder through it. I don't know why they would have sent it to you for the case feeder.
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If you were comparing two bullets with the same shape and weight, one lead, one plated and one with a jacket, the jacket bullet will require a little more powder to make velocity then the plated, and plated a hair more then the lead bullet. Bullet shape effects pressure and resulting velocity with the same given weight and jacket composition. In most standard throated pistols you are going to have to seat a truncated bullet well into the case so that it will chamber. In a long-throat pistol, the truncated bullet allows you to seat the bullet to a normal length. The shape of the truncated bullet seated long in the case effectively creates more powder space as more of the weight of the bullet is out forward of the case. Truncated bullets also have more bearing surface which is going to create a little more pressure.
Without a loading book in front of me, I cant say what the starting loads would be that you are talking about. I would say that if you are going to drop your loads, then you need to drop by more then .1, your powder measurer is not throwing to .1g. If it was ME, and 3.1 was a starting load, I would make sure that the TC bullets fit and cycled and load and shoot a few to see what happens and go from there. I would also make sure 3.1g is a starting-ish load.
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you really don't want to run .22 through a center fire can. Most center fire cans are sealed. There are only a few CF cans that you can tear down and I don't think that the big names are making them. If I was going to do it all over again, I would have bought a .22, 9mm and 7.62 can all at the same time. Its a chunk of change but the wait is the worst part! I think that you are going to find that a .22 with a can is the most "fun" and will shoot it a whole lot more then the others. 5.56 through a 7.62 can works just fine.
Cheers
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1/9 should work fine with 77's. I would just send the thing back.
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Great to hear from you and glad that you actually got out and after it. The advice about no DQ and safety is always good. Provided you get that out of the way, and its always something to remember think about manipulation of your firearms. Most can sit there and shoot at a target, its manipulation, transitions and reloading that get them. Start thinking about just plain better, smooth and more efficient handling of your firearms. What i see most among new shooters and Soldiers alike is they struggle with basics like reloading off their vest or belt etc.
After you get all this under your belt and things start running smooth, you will know when this is, then start asking some of the more "Why did you...." to some of the better shooters out there at a match when they have time and after they have shot the stage.
Consider that everyone wants to help; take advice with a grain of salt as if you ask 10 shooters, you will get 7 different answers.
Be safe.
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For 3G I am shooting a 9mm 2011 tactical. I run enough Solo 1000 to make min PF with 147 FMJ Zero or Precision Delta's. This is also my load I shoot out of my M&P 9mm production gun. I think 3.2-3.5 should get you there.
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Military .308 match brass tells me its "Match" because that's what the case says. Its still made to the same spec as other LC brass. It also has little marks on the case 1/4 way up from the base.
Case capacity, case weight, neck thickness and run-out variations will all be very greater with WCC MIL brass then it will be compared to WIN or LAPUA brass.
If you are shooting 3G then the brass will be fine. If you are a new NRA HP shooter with a bolt gun or semi auto the brass will be fine. If you are an Expert of better NRA XC or LR shooter buy some commercial brass.
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Great to hear from your. There are several factors that are going to come into play when determining the accuracy of your rifle, load and you as a shooter. Ultimately, you are going to test all of these together. I would ask you to consider what is required and realistic or expectation management. I am skeptical of all these "1/2 MOA all day long with any ammo etc." rifles, I have been shooting a long time with all kinds of custom ARs with high end barrels and I just don't see it, realistically, 1 MOA 10 shot groups are at the small end of what I would consider a reasonable expectation for a 3G AR-15 rifle. I also have to assume you are shooting an AR and that your 55's are FMJs as you don't way what you are shooting. If you are talking a cooper factory .223 or a .223 BR rifle (not sure why) then this is another matter. I would say that 1.5-2 MOA is about as good as your going to get with 55 FMJ ball bullets, SOME will shoot better, but this is a realistic expectation, if you try for 1/4 MOA groups you will just wear your barrel out. Also consider your optic, if its a low power scope or irons adjust accordingly.
As far as OAL goes, make sure the ammo fits in your magazines with a little room to spare. With 55 FMJ, the canalure will tell you when you are deep enough.
Make sure your cases are all sized enough and you don't have any issues with fit.
Function of the rifle is paramount along with safety.
Tim all brass to the same length, it will help with accuracy and if you crimp it will be important.
With Varget and 55g bullets, you almost cant get too much in the case, you will run out of room before the book max load.
Since this is your first rifle load you will want to load an Start with the starting charge and go up from there. You can shoot groups with powder charges in .2-.5 increments or try the ladder method. Stop when primers are flat or you get the velocity you want/ need. Adjusting your powder charges will only help so much. If you don't get the groups you want or need consider a different, bullet or powder. If we are talking 55 FMJ; Hornady and sierra bullets are good and shoot better then most others.
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So how and where is sign up for this one....
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Try book MIN and see what happens. If you want a gamer load, try H4895; start at book min and work down in .5g increments until your gun does not work then bump up .5-1g until bolt locks back on empty mag with open gas.
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I have had a Giraud for about 14 years or so and its still going strong.
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You don't need to decap before you tumble your cases or size them.
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The one that comes on an AK-74.
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Its usually not a good idea to shoot frangible rounds through a gun with a comp. The bullet composition is also harder then a normal jacket so you can expect a little more barrel wear. Also keep in mind these bullets are intended for 9mm velocity, not major factor. Worst case is you take your comp off your gun, that's about it. Best case is you have expensive fast ammo with a huge bearing surface that eats powder room.
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I have no idea why you are sizing on a single stage press if you have a progressive but thats your call. Most short stick powders will work just fine in a dillon press. I have used more Rl15 in a dillon 650 and 550 then i can remember without an issue. It does always help to polish the powder measure a little bit. You will get a little more variation in thrown powder weight with stick powders but its usually just fine. I would not try anything like 4198, it might hang things up a little.
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i would check the twist rate on that barrel and make sure its a 1-8. 1-9 should stabilize up to an including 77 without an issue, 1-8 even better. You can do this with a tight patch on a cleaning rod.
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I think you will be hard pressed to find a chamber cut with a neck length shorter then 1.760. Most are much longer, i have looked and many a barrel neck and throat with a bore scope and you can clearly see where necks stop and powder burns. I would not recommend a case longer then 1.760, that's MAX length and would never recommend something out of spec. Alternatively, if you dont have a great trimmer set up you can trim the brass once to 1.750 and load it a few times before it grows to 1.760+. Accuracy will suffer to a small extent if you use different length brass.
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There is no such thing as Military Match brass. LC Match is made to the same specs as all LC. If you want precision brass and you are attempting to use MG fired brass you are starting all kinds of wrong. If you want match brass buy Lapua. Nothing you do to that WCC brass is going to make it Lapua.
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a 5 shot 1 MOA group is a good honest group for any 3G rifle. I am always highly skeptical of most any claim of better then .5 MOA. Remember that we are shooting low power scopes. What is more important is the consistency of your ammunition, can you shoot a 1 MOA group this week and next AND does it print in the same place? One can put a 20X scope on a rifle and chase smaller groups but its usually not worth it.
Regarding velocity with heavy bullets in .223, experience tells me that more often then not if you are not happy with the velocity you are getting you need to try another more powder or another powder.
I did some brief experimentation with MR2000 before I left and there appears to be some promise of higher velocities. Ill report when I can.
Remember that not all heavy bullets are created equal, the H68 eats more case capacity then the 69 SMK. The H75 eats more then the 77 SMK or NOS and has a slightly higher BC. Weight alone is not everything, you can use more powder with 80g+ bullets because more of the bullet is seated out of the case. As always use caution and remember that a blown primer gumming up the works will ruin your day for sure.
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The standby powders for 69 and 77 and heavier bullets are on the slower side to get the velocity that you need. 748 or H335 is about as fast as you want to go for a 69g. For the 77g the "go to" load is 24-24.5g RL15 in a LC case. Varget works just as good or better and is not temp sensitive. I have been shooting 77g with TAC and it has shot well in all my match and 3G rifles. I shoot 24.2 with a rem 7.5 primer in WCC 1x cases that have been trimmed. I suspect you can get H335 or H332 to work but you are not going to get the velocity you want and or need. I have had best results with rem 7.5 primers in heavy bullet loads.
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This is a seating and or crimp issues. Size a case and try it in your barrel. If it fits then something is wrong with your reloading process not the barrel. If the sized case fits, load the bullet WITHOUT any crimp and see what happens and if there is a bulge. I suspect you are using a seat and crimp die in the same location and because you are seating the bullets so deep in the case, the crimp is starting before the bullet is seated. If you don't have an issue with other bullets then its clearly a reloading issue.
I think that if you are not using a separate seat and crimp then you should, lee makes a great factory crimp die and this saves you the hassle of setting up the crimp again for each bullet change.
Metering Extruded Powders on a Dillon XL650
in Rifle/Shotgun
Posted
When throwing power in a Dillon, especially with stick powders, your technique and consistency will help to uniform your powder charges. I think that if you are NOT SIZING when you prime and load you get a little more consistent results as there is not as much movement and bumping around with the press. A solid mount also help as does maintaining about 1/3 a measurer of powder. Polishing and keeping the guts clean also help.
I am not concerned about corn cob in the flash hole but if one is worried about that then you can run a decapping die in station one when you load. This will knock any media out of the case and ensure you did not try to load a case with a clump at the bottom.