dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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There is not a difference. Stop worrying, sort cases if you want and go shoot.
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Try different size targets and see if you cant make the target work better. Possibly a classic large bull's-eye.
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I would look at a BCM MK0, battle comp or levang comp. A "real comp" on a SBR will be crazy loud.
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I would go the Benelli m2 route. About the only real "must" is a welded lifter and magazine extension. You can find used M2's for 700-800. I would look for a 24" barrel if I had a choice.
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I run a lee FCD. After I put one in I had less reject rounds or ammo that would not fit into the chamber gauge on average.
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if you are shooting lead bullets things will start to gum up a little after a few hundred rounds depending on the powder you are using. Have you tried other bullets other then the 160's for reloads? 3.5 is kind of a light load, I suspect your velocity is on the low side and you might be just stabilizing the bullets. I should think that if you are getting 4" groups at 25 with a rest and iron sights that might not be "all that bad" Look at the forcing cone as others have suggested and see if there is a large build up of lead in any one area.
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"Some time ago I bought a Caspian Race single stack 1911 race ready frame in .40"
It was a frame. It is now finished. I am aware that ill need a .45 face slide barrel etc.
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1-7 or 1-6.5 you will be wasting time at 1000 unless you try a 80g or VLD type of bullet. 80g sierra is the marginal minimum for 1000. You are much better with a VLD bullet and lots of powder. Sorting cases and bullets will be critical. Good luck.
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Another way to say that or more simply answer your question; yes, reducing powder will reduce recoil to a point. At some point the powder will not generate pressure properly and might not function the firearm well. As such, you generally switch to a faster powder of which you will need less. this produces less velocity with proper pressure and less recoil.
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I think that you will find that factory .40 is a little hotter then it needs to be. I know the original .40 180g loads were loaded hot (over 1000 fps?) and some still load to that spec for duty and practice ammo.
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Gents,
Some time ago I bought a Caspian Race single stack 1911 race ready frame in .40. It is for an un-ramped barrel. What do I need to do to convert it to .45. I think that all I might need to do is slightly modify the ramp dimensions when I fit the barrel for feeding but i'm not sure about the geometry involved with the ejector. I bought this as a project gun to build my first 1911 from parts. it was more work then I thought it might be.
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if you are using standard dies and your bullets don't have enough neck tension to stay in place there is something wrong with your dies. The neck area is too big or your expander ball is way way too big. if you measure the ID of a sized case it should be .220-.223. The bullet would be .224 so that's .004-.001 neck tension. .002 is good enough unless you are shooting BR to mess with. A crimp will not "hold" a bullet in place, its just there to help with setback under recoil which is almost a nonexistent problem in .223
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Thanks for the help... So my question is:
"All things equal I should think that I will be able to load lighter loads with a carbine length gas then I will with a mid or rifle gas. Does anyone have experience with light loads in carbine vs. mid vs. rifle gas."
The 16" carbine gas barrel I have is ho-hum so it might go away and be replaced.
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I suspect the fired round in chamber type of malfunction is most always caused by ammunition. Most of the time this is the aluminum capped shells that will do this. Al does not expand and contract as well and sometimes the extractor will let go keeping case in chamber, the bolt cycles and attempts to pick up another round. My M2 took the head off a WIN bulk box ammo last fall at blueridge and locked the gun up. Winchester told me to pound sand and refunded the price of the remaining ammo. No more WIN bulk ammo for me.
To clear in a benelli you need to remove live shell and attempt to rack bolt, if this does not remove shell, remove spent shell with a tool. In other shotguns, they will attempt to pick up another shell from the tube so you after you try to rack the spent shell out and retract bolt all the way, you will pick up another shell, remove this and try a tool to remove case. from chamber.
This can be avoided most of the time with a brass case hull and clean chamber.
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I will be running 3 gun nation type loads.
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Gents,
I am considering building a spare carbine into a short range hoser rifle. Right now it has 16" carbine gas barrel and carbine buffer system along with a few other items. It will soon have an adjustable gas block, LM BCG and taccom ULW buffer. I plan on loading very light loads for the rifle, like 3 gun nation light loads.
All things equal I should think that I will be able to load lighter loads with a carbine length gas then I will with a mid or rifle gas. Does anyone have experience with light loads in carbine vs. mid vs. rifle gas.
Thanks
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I built up a rear sight for my M2 out of JB Weld. Its the width of the vent rib with a u shape notch cut in the top. I used clay to make a trough, filled it w. JP, let it set and filed on it for a bit. I think it helps and its quite fast. I run a fiber optic front.
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Lee or UGW small die.
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Hornady oneshot will dry up and "go away" if you let loaded ammo sit out. I don't use it as its not a very good lube for rifle ammo but its fine for pistol. I have used Frankfort and Dillon lube for pistol and I don't bother cleaning it off as I use a squirt for a bowl full of cases in my 650 feeder.
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You are not as likely to run into this shooting action pistol types of loads but it happens on occasion. You might see this if you are shooting NRA type bullseye if you load to very very slow velocities. Many aftermarket target type pistol barrels will have a slower twist for optimal accuracy and shooting a 155 LSWC, but a 200 LSWC in there and.... well you know.
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cant see clearly
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do what you want but federal brass is soft. Primer pockets open up fast.
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my buddy took one off with a wrench.
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stay away from federal
Suggestions on muzzle device for 10" barrel
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Levang makes a linear comp that fits the bill. All blast forward. I run one on a 12.5 AR. There is no real recoil reduction, but it does keep things civil. Small, light-ish and 30.00