dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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I have an RCBS lube die. It does not work that well as advertised. I load on a 650 and spray the cases with dillon lube before putting them into the hopper. I deprime with the lube die on station one, this has the added effect of spreading the lube around a little, adding a little lube to cases that need it and taking a little off those with too much.
I found that at the rate you can load on a Dillon the lube die cant keep up with the demand and its a pain in the butt to load with the rcbs lube and if you forget to take the die out all the lube runs out of it and all over your press.
The lube die does not get the inside of the necks, in .223 with a carbide expander ball and just a little lube in clean cases, this is not an issue.
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Size your brass more.
"Thanks for your thoughts man. I read on Kriegers website where folks were sometimes getting their shell holder thinned by 0.005". It appears I may not need to go that route, as bottomed out seems to be enough. Just barely. Interesting stuff though, that till now, I didn't have to think about."
- Ok folks, the fact this is a Krieger barrel has NOTHING to do with possible sizing, chambering or possible pressure issues unless these barrels were CHAMBERED by Krieger.
- I am a little confused by some of the information but... If loaded rounds are "sticky to eject" then the brass has not been sized enough. If the charging handle "requires a good deal of force to eject" and this is loaded ammo, then defiantly need more sizing. I am assuming this is the case for the rest of the comments.
I believe that some of the live ammo chambers and allows the bolt to fully go into battery and some does not. I suspect that the fired brass you have was shot in at least two different rifles and that those rifles have different chamber dimensions. By this I don't mean that one is .223 and the other is Wylde etc, but that two different reamers were used to chamber the barrels. If this is the case, one of those rifles that generated the fired brass has a tighter chamber then the other one does so when you size the brass from rifle A, it is enough to chamber in your new barrel. Brass fired in rifle B is not getting sized enough for the new barrel.
You can and I have neck sized .223 for an AR, you just have to put that ammo back into the rifle that fired it. the AR system closes the bolt with quite a bit of force and you can, and I have sized cases while closing the bolt on some ammo I did not size enough. In many cases, the fired case will stay in the chamber and the extractor will rip the rim off or just ride over the case rim.
In a perfect world you keep one set of brass and dies for one rifle. As I have many AR rifles, this is impractical for everything but my NRA service rifles. Most of my brass gets shot out of several rifles and put back into one bucket. Knowing this, when I set up my dies, I size 10 different cases from the "mix brass" bucket and measure them all to make sure that all the brass is sized enough to drop in a chamber gauge. I also can measure the cases with a RCBS case mic. the result is that I am excessively sizing my brass for some of my rifles, in reality there is no practical downside other then it takes a little more force to size and my brass wears out a little. The result, I believe, is that using mix-rifle fired brass, is that I get more consistently sized ammo.
On another topic, if you are having a hard time cleaning the barrels, use some JP bore paste sparingly. If your not getting blue and your getting lots of black gunk, that's sealant fowling and its hard to get out.
I am suspect of used barrels as a general rule. If the barrels came from the XXXX shooting team some how.... they likely needed to shoot 3" at 300M and possibly did not do so.
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Years ago CMMG used to make a 16" with a rifle length gas system. When I asked them about it I was told that in order to make the system run reliably with a standard operating system you would need full power ammo to make things run. Voodoo has apparently figured something out and make and sell a 16.5 with a rifle length gas system and I don't think there are reliability issues with the system. I believe there are some comments and concerns about how such a thin profile barrel will hold up under a sustained rate of fire in regards to maintaining accuracy over a 30-50 rd COF. Experience tells me that thin barrels walk when they get hot but that's another topic.
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- You are just firing the brass, you are not fire forming. Fire forming is when you fire brass in a chamber to form the brass from one caliber to another i.e. shooting a .223 in a .223 AI chamber, after its been fired once it is now fire-formed and you can use .223 AI data.
- You should always be able to get a stick of fired brass back in the rifle it was shot out of. It gets a little more tricky but for the most part applies to bolt guns and some semi autos. the reason semi auto rifle fired brass stretches so much, especially M14 brass, is that the brass is "stuck" to the chamber as the extractor starts working and effectively stretches the brass out a little.
- Bumping the shoulder and sizing are two different things and are both kind of related. Among the many kinds of dies there are neck dies that only size the nexk, FL dies size the neck, set or "Bump" the shoulder back and size the OD of the case body. there are also Bump dies which only set the shoulder of the case back and neck / shoulder dies that size the neck, set or "bump" the shoulder back but don't size the body of the case.- I doubt that the RCBS dies are the issue if you cant FL size enough provided you know how to measure cases properly to determine how much you are setting back the shoulder. the .308 requires much more effort then a .223 to FL size and I suspect two things, one; you need to screw your dies down more. two; that aluminum lee press is flexing and not helping things at all which will contribute to the problem. It is possible that you might have to grind down the base of the die a little but its likely your rifle and press that's the issue vs. the dies.
- I FL all my ammunition to include 1000 high power rifle ammo and I am a NRA LR HM. I set the shoulders on the cases back .001-.002. To date I have not neck turned ammunition.
- You are going to have to trim all your cases if you want consistent OAL case lengths even if they are all the same before you size the cases.
- I would FL size all my brass if it was my rifle. that Remington rifle has a huge chamber and leade if its like 99% of all the factory Remington rifles out there.
- .41 5 shot group is pretty darn impressive for a factory rifle... just saying its a little hard to swallow. There is a reason that a quality barrel alone costs 325.00 for just the blank and that Hogue stock is not doing you any favors. You also have a 20" barrel .308 rifle so its not going to be a proper target rifle. If I had one of those rifles, and I might buy one as a suppressor rifle, I would be down right impressed with a 2" 10 shot group at 200 YDS.- I would not waste my time turning necks for that rifle with that chamber shooting FC GM brass. I suspect that the primer pockets will open up after one or two reloads to the point where you will have to scrap the brass. You are better off buying some Lapua brass and a chronograph if you don't already have one to start, and there is a lot more to it then just turning the necks. There is a benefit and you will get more consistent neck tension but there are other things that will help.
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I might be wrong on this one, but, in my opinion about 50% or more of shotgun related issues have to do with ammunition. I would suggest you try another brand and or more powerful ammunition at the next match. My M2 will run on 1 1/8 at 1150 99% of the time but if im in a position where the gun cant recoil much ill get the occasional shudder. 1 1/8, WIN AA target I think, works a little better. I have also found that the AL base cap shells don't work quite as well. I suspect that if the issue is related to the last shell only, it could also have to do with the magazine spring as when there are other shells in the gun you in effect get more tension to throw that shell out and onto the lifter.
Try different ammo first and see what happens.
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Its a hotel too.
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ALCON,
Ill be at shot show this year. I am staying at Hooters. Anyone else joining the event?
thanks
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I think that Noveske also has an adapter that you can put into a Benelli, A2 or other kind of stock if there is not an existing mount or a provision to add one of the magpul bolt on guys.
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I have loaded all kinds of 1000yd ammo on a 550 and continue to do. For all practical purposes the 550 and 650 are "the same" when it comes to the ability to load precision ammo. I will tell you that I size on the first pass through, then clean and trim. On the second pass, I seat primers and stop the case when it is "up" to drop in a weighed powder charge. I use the funnel powder die thing. I am using stick powder, RL15 and varget. If I was using a ball powder I would not weigh the charges. I then seat the bullet after that. What you are going to see in regards to variations in runout can be attributed mostly to the cases and case preparation, NOT the press or the dies.
I prefer to work backwards, try what is easy, measure the ammo for runout, and shoot a group to test accuracy, SD and ES. If things look good, I stop there and go load. If things are not good regarding runout, and effects on target are not what I want, ill work to solve that problem looking at brass quality, necks, bushings etc. Provided I can get a 10 shot group 2" at 200 yds with 25 fps ES, ill stop messing around as this is good enough ammo for NRA highpwower and i'd bet dollar to doughnuts 90% of people that claim their rifle will shoot 1/2 MOA or better all day long would not measure up to that standard. For three gun ammo i'm a little less picky as i'm shooting with a 6x scope.
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It is my understanding that most all the uppers come mostly finished out of the same place and its only minor finishing and stamping that the end company accomplishes. So, aside from cosmetic differences, there is not much a difference between uppers and lowers unless you are looking for special features. I would use what you have.
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There is lots and lots written about this all over the internet. Short answer is that it depends on your rifle. 168 and 175 SMKs generally don't shoot much better when they are close to the lands or jump so seat them so they fit in the magazine.
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You have to run the numbers on a calculator to see which ones make sense.
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I shoot 77 SMKs and 55 FMJs. I prefer the hornady FMJs. Shooting this combination of ammunition from an 18" DD STW barrel, I zero at 200 yds with my vortex 1-6 with the 77's. I check my zero with the 55's at 50, 100 and 200. I have considered going to a single bullet for the next season and provided you push the 55's fast enough its close, but the 77's win big time with the wind. 55's do work the comps better then 77's. I have considered going to an all 69 Nosler ammo. I think that in addition to increased accuracy, the heavy bullets will more reliably knock steel over. Then again there are top shooters running all factory 55 FMJ but its clocking in at 3200 FPS or so and that's hard to reload to.
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Most seating dies out there in the past had a crimp option on them and I suspect that many still do now. The proper way to adjust crimp is to put a case in the press and screw die down until it touches and raise the die a few turns; you now have no crimp. Seat a bullet to length that you want to. Now, raise the seating plug way up in the die and adjust down until you get the crimp you want. Once you are there, lock the die and adjust the seating plug back down until it contacts the bullet and lock that in place. This is just like a taper crimp on a pistol die. the problem is that every time you adjust the seating depth for another bullet, you have to take the crimp out and set things all over again. A Separate crimp die is a better idea if you want to crimp and there is not much of a reason to do so.
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I hate to say this but I would approach this from a different angle: Provided all the powder charges are consistent, I would go and shoot a group and measure velocity. After establishing a baseline I would have to experiment with one variable at a time. Provided your ES and SD are good, then don't mess with primers any longer. If your SD and ES are good then that lot of cases are consistent enough, if ES is high then sort for weight as that's about all you can do to get consistent case capacity. After that you can check a handful of ammo with runout and some without; if your chamber is big and runout is .003 or less, I don't think you will see any difference, if there is gross runout variation I would have to check brass for runout and then look into your press and dies.
match vs standard primers is a mute point, sometimes standard primers work better then match primers.
case capacity
ctg OAL variations (provided its not from bullet tip variations which is not an OAL variation, OAL variation SHOULD be from base to ogive)
concentricity of bullet, not neck concentricity (provided its under .003 you are OK)
Brass OAL (provided its all been trimmed, .001-.002 variation is fine)
Primer pocket uniformity
bullet weight (generally not an issue with match bullets at all, bullet OAL from base to tip and base to ogive is more of an issue)
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For general 3 gun application you would be better off with a 55 FMJ then you will with either of the two 60g bullets you mention. The 60G VMAX will shoot very very well but when compared to a 55 FMJ its at a disadvantage for wind and drop in the long run. 55 FMJ bullets also cost less. The 60g VMAX will do a number on critters if that's the intended purpose and they will do so more consistently then a 60g SP will.
I have shot many a H68g bullet side by side with a sierra 69 when I could not find the sierra bullets. They shoot almost as well, they have a lower BC and they do take up more case capacity then a sierra bullet will.
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That....is the question. I found a chart some time ago with some of the lock times on them. If I recall, the Geiselle was a fast for AR trigger. Actual data would be nice. I hope to touch one or two at SHOT.
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You want as fast of a lock time as you can get. Faster is always better. I don't recall the numbers but the lock time on a standard AR trigger is 2.5 times that of a rem 700 trigger, and the 700 trigger is 1.5 times slower then the Tubb bolt gun is. What all this equates to is more time between you pulling the trigger when breaking an offhand shot and the bullet leaving the barrel. It matters less when shooting prone and from position but it does matter. Its much the same why that you have to follow through more with a .22 then a center fire target rifle and follow through is even more important with an airgun as the rifle is moving while the pellet is in the barrel. Id give one a whirl...
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you need to determine if the trigger is case hardened or not. If its case hardened like a MIL STD ar trigger then you cant polish things up as you will polish through the case hardening. Provided its not case hardened, you can try to polish the surfaces of the trigger.
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You need to determine if the trigger is case hardened or not. If its case hardened like a MIL STD ar trigger then you cant polish things up as you will polish through the case hardening. Provided its not case hardened, you can try to polish the surfaces of the trigger.
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As far as effects on paper is concerned, there is not a difference between uppers and lowers. Provided they are made right, and you put a good barrel in, they will shoot. I don't know about the barrel but at least its not made from an el-cheap-o blank but I know little about McGowen other then I have not herd of them.
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I almost dare to say that your optic should cost more then this rifle if you want to shoot TO. If you buy a good optic then your are well on your way. If you want to shoot non-magnified you can save some money. the optic (in a good mount) and trigger will make more of a difference to you then anything else. I doubt you will see a difference between a .25 and a 2 MOA rifle in 80% of matches you will shoot. Yes there are better comps but that is an easy fit. The good part is you can build a rifle for the same or less and have exactly what you want. I suggest that you spend good money on the barrel when you build the rifle as that's what is going to make it shoot. Adjustable gas blocks are a nice touch, lightweight buffers and BCGs are cool but I don't think you will see a dramatic improvement if your just getting into things.... I say again that you will notice the optic and the trigger. Provided you know how or know someone that does, building a rifle is half of the fun.
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ADI powders makes Hodgen extreme series, ADI 2208 is Varget here in the USA.
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Lucky you got a re-shoot. In general when shooting in cold weather your ammo will develop slightly less pressure. If its real real cold any lubrication that you have will not work as well. If you are in arctic conditions, the grease will freeze, but I don't think that's the case here. In cold weather metal will also "stick" together. There have been a few reviews of the adjustable gas key here. I don't think they are all that glowing as initial reports are that the adjustments come loose. I think the consensus is that its good in theory but in practice it does not work so well.
I would try adjusting the gas key and finding a way to mark the setting with a scratch etc. Shoot some and see if things work loose. You also need to adjust the gas so things work and the gun runs at full power, ie not a sluggish carrier, and then give the gas another 1/2 turn and lock things down. If you are right on the edge of cycle/ no cycle then if you don't lube the gun right or it gets too dirty It will choke.
Wanting to reload for my precision rifle
in Precision Rifle
Posted
Good call on the FC brass. It is hard to beat FC match ammunition with hand loads in many cases.
I don't know about the Privi brass without measuring and weighing it. The Lapua will be better but might be thicker then the Privi brass. the reason you were getting extraction trouble with the FC brass is that its thicker then the privy brass and has less capacity and as such generates more pressure. It has less internal volume then LC brass.