dauntedfuture
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Posts posted by dauntedfuture
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3 rounds does not a group make! If you are getting honest 2 3/4 groups at 200 yds with 55g ammo then that might be about as good as you are going to get. Wilson barrel blanks are cheep. I cant see pics on the computer where I am most of the time, but when you shoot groups is there any kind of pattern that you see? Could something be pressing or rubbing? Do you have another upper receiver that you can put the barrel in? I know for fact that when some shooting organizations cant get a barrel to shoot with proven ammo they will swap uppers and some times this "fixes" the problem, no one knows why.
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I have used all kinds of rifle dies and these comments apply to rifle dies only. and I will start by saying that I prefer the redding FL bushing dies for FL sizing and I prefer the foster seating die with micrometer for seating. I FL size everything and I don't see a need to neck size anything. One must keep in mind that you must have good brass to get low runout (loaded ammo), and low runout is the measure of performance that you are looking for when it comes to your sizing and seating system. Nothing you can do is going to help you seat a bullet straight in crooked brass. Your press will also factor into loaded ammo concentricity, or runout. As long as runout is .002 or so, everything is OK.
RCBS gold medal has an opening in the side, a sliding sleeve and a micrometer adjustment, this helps for seating flat base bullets. The sleeve only supports the case neck, not the whole case.
The Hornady system, in my opinion is not the most desirable as only the neck and bullet are supported. I have used these dies in .308, they work and have won 1000yd matches with ammo loaded with these dies. the Hornady factory FL die is on the tight side and is closer to a SD die. The expander is egg shape and this does help when you pull the button back through the case neck. The hornady decapping system is robust.
Foster dies have a system that supports the whole case and with their seating plug design, support a wide variety of bullets. The foster FL die has a floating button system and you can get a carbide button.
I have not used Dillon rifle dies.
With whatever die system you use make sure to use plenty of lube and well clean your cases. For .308 make sure you get lube in the necks.
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Very true. It is often very hard to tell the difference on target with neck tension variations in non-benchrest rifles. If you are cronographing your ammo you will usually see that one combination yields better ES numbers.
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I'm skeptical that velocity is not listed with loading data. You cant tell if its on the fast or slow of the spectrum. Ill spend the extra few bucks on a knows quantity unless they want to tell me its surplus XXX or similar to YYY. Their 9mm ammunition does not make minimum power factor. Their .40 is 170 PF. I suspect that's because the powder is on the fast side.
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I cant post a picture but you can take a rag and stuff it between the scope mount rings so that the rag hangs over the ejection port of the rifle. It will catch the brass and drop it in a pile. Another option is a ball cap: run the front of the scope through the adjustment look in the back of the hat and pull the bill over the ejection port.
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Wow, that's too much work for .40. I have used Hornady .40 dies and now use a lee U-die. I simply have never had an issue sizing .40 cases on a LNL, 550 or 650 with either one of those dies. I use range pick up .40 brass. Most of this is USPSA range pick up brass and newer glock 22/23 don't "glock" brass as much as the G1 and G2 guns do.
I check each loaded round of ammo in a case gauge for competition. I might find 1/200 that does not go for some reason and they still work fine as practice ammo.
I have had issues with ammo that's loaded a little long that would not chamber in a .40 M&P but would fit in the magazine. Long loaded .40 will not gauge as the bullet is too long. I have had some limited feeding issues in a .40 2011 for ammo that was loaded too short. these are all bullet seating related issues.
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Make sure you get lube in the neck. Imperial is great but... its hard to get it inside the necks. You will know your necks need lube if you are having a hard time pushing the leaver up on your press as you are expanding over the expander ball. In .223 you don't notice, in .308 you will. a carbide button will help.
Yes, sadly you can have too much lube. If you use spray lube you need to let the cases sit for a few minutes for the lube distributes itself. If you get dents in the shoulder then its from too much lube. For 300 and in ammo, just load and shoot those cases.
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.2205 = .0035 of neck tension and .221 = .003 neck tension. This is more then enough. Remember that this is what one kind of brass as different brass has different neck thickness. If you are running dies with an expander ball then this is much, much less of an issue. Thicker brass or harder brass might spring back a little more.
If you all the sudden neck turn your brass you will change things as well.
If you decide to get bushing dies and not run an expander ball, you have to stick to one kind of brass and you might need to neck turn to maintain a consistent ID of the brass.
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Look at Evolution Gun Works (EGW) extended one piece base. I have several. Get a 10 MOA for a GP rifle. Get a 20MOA for a LR target gun.
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Sir,
You don't need anyone to build you a special lefty suppressor ready rifle. You just need a lefty upper group and then you put the can on it or put the QD mount on the rifle. I have a few cans. I tried to run a YHM on a 11.5 .223 with piston; that did not work as gas was coming back down the barrel and the thing was choking. .223 can on 11.5 with DI gas not an issue but there is plenty of gas. I used some silicon around the back of the charging handle. I don't have an ADJ gas block on this rifle and the upper is a BCM. I have run the YHM on a 12.5 DI .223 upper with silicon on the CH. You are going to get gas and a dirty gun with most combinations of cans and guns, some cans are better then others at gas blowing back. I also ran a 5.5" 9mm AR with Gemtech can for a little while. No real issues with gas but the gun w. suppressor did not shoot well and the gun broke both my trigger pins (standard) in short order.
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I run a 18" midlength DD barrel with A5 buffer system and a RCA LW BCG without issues.
I think that PMC ammo is a little on the anemic side from what I understand from some of the other posts. If you have the CLE 18" SPR barrel, it says that on the web site that the 18" barrel has rifle gas. I am not sure if this is a small clerical error or what as I don't think that you can get a rifle length gas to work with a midlength gas tube.
From Youngs web site"
"This is our signature carrier assembly. Added surface area in the front of the carrier gives a tighter fit when the bolt is in battery for more consistent lock up."
It looks like this is a more beefy carrier then a standard one, or it looks like it weighs a little more then a standard one. This added carrier weight combined with some anemic ammunition and a dirty rifle could cause or contribute to your issues.
FROM AR-15.com
"This is not the 5.56 from the 90s. This is .223 power ammo. Having said that it is good ammo. Not one issue in over 1k rounds thru several carbines. Accuracy could be better, but it is a 55gr. fmj. It averages less than 2800fps out of my carbines. So it definitely is not 5.56 pressure."
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if you have the dies honed, its essentially the same thing as selecting a busing die and only running one bushing. You would need to run one kind of brass for best results. The idea is to open the neck up so you just size the OD of the neck just enough and the expander ball expands just enough. this works the brass a little less and should help to keep things a little more concentric.
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The CHF barrel might maintain accuracy a little longer. I say might because enough sustained fire in a short amount of time will ruin a barrel. I would spend the extra money and I if you get a 16" BCM you get a free BCG and MOD 1 comp I think to boot.
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Again, I highly doubt that its the feed ramp mismatch but it is possible. Tell us more about the rest of the system, what bolt, trigger, gas, block ammo etc. Are you lubing the gun enough? 4 rds out of 1300 is not a lot of malfunctions, im not saying that its great, but in general the rifle runs. If you were having malfunctions every other round or 2 out of a magazine that would be a more serious issue. I am also not saying that you cant work it out but its going to be a little harder.
I don't know what kind of chamber is on that rifle barrel but compass lake makes mostly NRA highpower stuff and they usually use their own chamber reamer. I have a suspicion that the chamber is a little more on the tight side then loose and it you have a tight chamber and dirty gun with a little less lube.....bingo malfunction.
Remember that you did build this thing out of a box of parts and there is tolerance stacking involved, I have done the same thing many times, im not knocking you, im just saying that its possible that the combination of parts, A+B+C+D = extra tight/ slop etc.
As I rethink this, you might just need to clean and lube your rifle.
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That looks like an A2 extension and an M4 upper to me which COULD be the problem. In general you can run a M4 extension with upper. I have reshaped rifle extensions to M4 extensions with a hand round file. You need to send a pic of what the rifle looks like when there is a jam. I suspect that the system is on the edge of operation. If you have an adjustable gas block open it up a little or use hotter ammo.
I highly doubt that that's what is causing your problems. Its more likely another issue related to out of spec parts (not the barrel) magazines, ammunition, operating system, gas, the lower, the bolt catch..... There are lots of possibilities. I think You can get a flat top rifle upper but I don't think that will fix the issue.
Whose upper is that?
The marks look more like they were caused when the bolt slammed into the top of a half-out of the magazine round but I cant tell for sure.
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They are all about the same. I have used Aimpoint M2, M3, M4, MICRO and EOTECHs. I don't think that you will be able to tell a difference. Head position will effect shot position if shots are inside 50M. The close to 50M you are the less parallax there is. Past 50M there is none. If you zero these optics at 25M, head position and position of the dot will effect your shots on target. We are not talking much, 1" at most but there is some. Is general its not an issue on close big targets if the dot is anywhere close to the center and no issue at all past 50M.
I don't know about the leupold 1X.
Shot placement in relation to bore to sight, hold over, is another matter
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Quag,
The lee hand primers work well but they are cheap and wear out. I think I am on #3 after 20 years or so. I also have a Hornady (50.00) unit that does not work quite as well but is build much better. DO NOT GET THE RCBS thing that uses the primer strips. I would work to get your adjustments set on your 550. I have loaded ??? rounds of ammo on a 550 and in general, don't have a real issue with seating primers. You might try adjusting your shell plate down a little tighter and making sure everything is clean.
I would stop cleaning the primer pockets with the cutter, you can cut too much and you simply don't need to do it. I don't bother cleaning primer pockets on anything but my long range highpower rifle brass and for that I use a little brush thing. Its not bad, I just think you are wasting time and effort.
Some primers are also easier to use then others so that has something to do with it if you are using brand X for SP and brand Y for SR.
I would also use your Dillon for FL sizing your brass its faster then the single stage as you only have to put brass in and not take out but this is on you.
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.556 brass is thicker and can load hotter
.223 brass is thinner
Same head stamp should make more consistent ammo.
Not always true. LC 5.56 brass has more case capacity then several other brands of .223 brass. Lapua makes great brass but weighs more then LC and has less case capacity. Some cases are made from a lighter weight brass alloy then others. Neck thickness also varies. Lapua brass usually has a little thicker necks then most .223/5.56 brass. Once you shoot .223 or 5.56 in your rifle, the outside diameter of all that fired brass is the same, the ID will very a little based on capacity.
the rule of "reduce charges for military brass" is still a good rule to follow, if you are running a hot load and you change brass you can have pressure issues but this applies to 7.62 and .30-06 brass much more then .223/5.56 brass as LC 7.62 or .30-06 brass is heavier and has less case capacity the almost all commercial .308 or .30-06 brass out there. LC 7.62 vs. WIN .308, its about 1-1.5g less of powder required to get the same velocity.
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Ok, you can use the cutter or the swager, you don't need both. .223 FC and 5.56 LC brass primer pockets are all cut to the same spec. Mark the rod and the nut with a little paint mark so you can see how much you are adjusting. Tighten the nut each time until its snug, not tight. Start with sized 1x brass and swage the pocket, and adjust the rod out, making it a little longer each time, this adds more swage. Each time you adjust the rod, use another piece of brass and try to seat a primer with a HAND PRIMER if you have one.
You need to isolate if its the primer pockets that are not to spec or that your Dillon primer seater needs adjustment. Adjusting the seater on a 550 is a little bit of a pain and I still mis-seat primers on occasion on my 650 and 550.
A lee hand primer will work just fine and they are like 12.00.
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The brand new lapua cases are already sized. .308 requires effort to size and proper lube on the case and the neck. It took LOTS of effort for me to size some 1000 pieces of 1X MG fired brass to get it back to spec. If the brass was shot in a semi auto or many factory rifles with a big chamber (Remington especially) you will have lots of sizing to do. M1A/14's are brutal on brass.
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What ever you do, the ID on the case neck needs to be at least .223. That provides .001 of neck tension. you really should have more like a .222 ID, or .002 neck tension. If you start getting smaller then say, .221, or .003 neck tension, and you don't use an M-die or VLD chamfering tool you will shave bullets. the way that sizing standard dies work is that the ID of the neck is controlled by the expander ball, a normal expander ball is .221-.223 and brass generally springs back to .001 smaller then the expander ball will. the ID of the neck sizing area on most dies is such that it sizes the case so the ID of the neck is .220 or so and the expander ball expands the neck of the case out to .221-.223.
Crimping a bullet does not increase neck tension but it will increase pressure a little bit. If you take a loaded round WITHOUT a crimp you should NOT be able to set the bullet back in the case if you push a loaded round by the base into wood with moderate force. A loaded round with .001 neck tension is water tight and air tight. If you have a strong crimp into a canalure and you have a loaded round nose dive into the front of a magazine the bullet might not be set back into the case as the front of the canalure will catch the brass and keep the bullet, in some cases, from being set back.
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I am a long time highpower shooter and while I don't shoot my M1 all that much I have shot one more then many. Many people use federal match and WIN primers in the M1A, M14 and M1 garand without issues. I cant recall that anyone at the matches ever talked about special primers.
I have loaded some .30-06 with surplus 4895 powder that I got from GI brass and I think that's its really Russian "4895" which is slow and acts more like 4064. I have used standard WIN and WOLF primers in two M1's and a 1903 and I was getting delayed ignition. I ordered some rem 9.5 primers that I was going to try but never got around to it.
I would try the normal primers and see what happens, with new primers I don't think you will have an issue with ignition.
Keep bullet weights between 147 - 175. Use 4895-4064 burn range powders and medium loads. FL size and trim your brass. I don't recall what the ball or M72 loads are but with a little research you can duplicate them.
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While I don't know what rifle sports he is talking thinking about, in a word NO. OK, well... he might do OK shooting running target in Europe with a red dot.... Neither rifles are known for accuracy and a 16" barrel, while handy, is not optimum for a .308 in a competition rifle.
If he is bound and determined to get a 16" factory 308, Remington makes one with a threaded barrel, replace the Hogue stock with something solid and "bam"
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After reading things over a few times it looks like the biggest change that I will see as a former TAC OPTICS, now PRACTICAL shooter is that I can have a forward grip under 5" if I want one and run what ever rifle magazine I like. I don't see a rifle mag restriction.
I am all in favor of one set of rules for everyone to follow, we do it for USPSA pistol and I don't care for all the "outlaw" match rules out there but that's just me. Its easier for me to keep track of one equipment configuration and one set of things to remember.
I think factory, at the end of the day, means that I would have to run a 30 rd rifle mag, plug my SG so it only holds 8 in the magazine (ghost load???) and I would have to download my STI 9mm magazines.
That's about all I could digest at this point regarding the rifles.
I used to shoot lots of NRA Service rifle with an AR-15. The fundamental rule was that you could not change the outward appearance of the rifle (M1, M14/1A or AR-15/M16) and that you had to have a 4.5 lb trigger. There are more rules to it then that, but, none of those "service Rifles" you would find on the line were anything close to an as issued rifle, form outward appearance they would be hard to tell apart. I see this as kind of the same thing as "factory Rifle" even tough its not very factory.
I also think much of these rule changes look as if they are intended to make things a little less intimidating for a new guy and a little less forgiving.
Unable to find an accurate load
in Rifle - Technical
Posted
Mark,
Does this mean that you think there is something about upper to barrel fit on an AR rifle?