rjacobs

Can you still trim other brass (.223 or .308) with that tool head in station 6? You would have to make up some shims to keep the vacuum attachment in line with the windows in the die, but yea, should still be do-able. I hate setting up dies and trimmers so I have 2 tool heads(cut down 300blk and a regular for 223), along with 2 trimmers(RT1500 for 300blk and RT1200 for 223). I will most likely get a 3rd setup for 308 at some point.

You will cut into 3 stations in order to fit the vacuum attachment. Mine I used station 6 for my trimmer and thus cut into station 5 and 7. Station 8 is untouched and where I run a full length size die for the 300blk.

21st century shooting makes a great neck expanding mandrel die. The die body can be used for any caliber, just the mandrel gets replaced.

They have a new deal where you get a 35lb powder keg full of bullets. I got 22k 115g 9mm a few weeks ago. Saves a bit more over the regular distributor pricing. What I have learned on shipping from them is that they use whats easiest for them which seems to be ABF. Well it just so happens ABF is also the most expensive. On this 22k piece order they could have shipped it in USPS flat rate boxes for almost $100 less. I will NEVER use ABF again. Ive used other freight companies with them in the past and it was considerably cheaper. So when you order from them make sure you ask about the freight cost and have them check a few different freight companies.

Same experience when I received 10k 200g 45acp bullets instead of 230g 45acp bullets. Mail man was PISSED when I said "hey, can you bring your dolly to the garage?"

I TRY not to use swear words on the forums so that wont be possible. I think I would melt down the swear filter if I let my true feelings out LOL.

Dicks Sporting Goods can go fornicate themselves with a hot fire poker.

I use fishing line to tie up my dropper spring to keep the tension off of the dropper. Works well once I got it positioned exactly how I needed it.

yup your fail safe rod is in backwards anyway so good time to fix it.

Ive never had a case stick on the sizing die and I have wet/stainless tumbled for a few years now. I HAVE had cases stick on the powder activator though and cause the press to "thump", but the carbide sizing die, never had a problem with it. I am not using an undersize die though, just normal Dillon carbide dies.

thats what I use and use 99% alcohol, not 91%(which is commonly sold). Warm both up. 4oz lanolin to about 30 oz of alcohol in a 32oz spray bottle from Home Depot.

how does your advance pawl look? Do you have the ratchet installed on the press? How is the channel that the primer slide rides in? Clean?

Thats how I load rifle(and have so far never had a squib), but when doing load development on the 550b or 1050 with pistol stuff I just run it through and pour the powder in at the correct station without interrupting the flow of the operation. Like I said, no matter how careful I intend to be or know I need to be, shit happens, and im man enough to admit it.

rcbs chargemaster. I use it for load development in conjunction with either a 550b or 1050. be VERY careful when using it though as its VERY easy to squib a load. No distractions. Make sure the chargemaster counter shows 10 when you move on to your next increment. I have done a decent amount of pistol load development using it and no matter how careful I am(or THINK I am being) I have gotten a squib. I usually load at least 60 rounds or so when doing load development for pistols(seems most pistol powder has a .5g spread from min to max) and have gotten a squib somewhere in those 60 almost every time. Every time I load develop pistols I tell myself "be extra careful with powder charging, no distractions" and again, no matter how careful I am, it happens.

You shouldnt be using your powder die to bell the case. The expansion for bullet seating is done on the swage station. Belling is not needed on a 1050 due to this. I run a Mr. Bullet Feeder and I use NO BELLING, just the expansion from the swage backup die and have zero issues(I can advance the shell plate fast enough that I would toss a ton of powder out of the case, but the bullet stays put). My guess is you are bottom out your powder funnel activator inside the powder thrower and this is causing the tool head to rock around. Again, just a guess. I would personally strip this tool head completely bare and see what it does with no dies, nothing, on the tool head. Oh and remove the ratchet. While I dont think its causing your issue, it could be.

Good luck. Just buy new. IF I was going to sell one of my 1050's I would probably ask like 1600 as it sits for loading 9mm. 1050's(and all Dillon machines for that matter) really hold their value unless you find somebody that doesnt really know what they have like an estate sale or something. That and shipping a press is quite a bit of cash, like 80 bucks or so from what I remember. If you bought from Brian he includes shipping so something to think about.

Did your press not come pre set or are you setting up for a new caliber? My tool head doesnt tilt, at least not enough to notice. Is your tool head bolt tight? I run my handle down fully then run the sizing die down until it touches lightly and call it a day. This is with an empty shell plate. As far as the swage station setup that just takes some trial and error in order to get it exact. Set the backup portion of the die first then set the swage rod, little by little. There is a tool you can buy or you can just use a different press to seat the primer and get a feel for it. I just use my Forster Co-Ax to seat primers until I like the feel.

I think I need some lube on my press

Still need the swage setup in a 1050 to expand the cases. The powder station does NOT flare the cases, that is done at the swage station with the backup portion of the die.

One problem with the casefeeder on the 550 is the primer seating. Without the case feeder, there is a little spring (looks like a bent paper clip) that holds the case firmly all the way into the primer station. The bullet feeder requires removal of that spring. Result is that the case frequently bounces away from the correct position and then you can't get the primer in. You have to stop, and move the case in with your finger, which is difficult because the case feeder obstructs the priming station. Anyway, how is the 1050 different? You need to see a 1050 in action. 8 stations, there is no sharing. Search some video's on youtube. Station 1 is case feed station 2 is de-prime/size station 3 is swage/expand station 4 is prime station 5 is powder station 6 is empty OR powder check OR bullet feeder station 7 is seating station 8 is crimp Primers are seated on the stroke, no push after the stroke involved. There is a pin on the tool head that is adjustable so you can get your seating depth set perfect. This pin, when the tool head is brought down, pushes on a tappet(basically) that pushes on a rocker arm which transmits over to the primer seating punch. The primer seating punch has a spring on it that returns the whole thing so the primer slide can move out of the way and get a new primer. Its VERY similar to how a valve train on single cam engines work with push rods, tappets, rocker arms, valves and valve springs. A 1050 will be faster, marginally, than a 650, all else being equal simply due to the priming aspect.

IF you want to up your speed you need to get a Mr. Bullet Feeder also with the 1050. My buddy was timing me the other night and I loaded 100 rounds in 2:50 which equates to around 2k rounds an hour. I think if I tried to do that for an hour my arm would fall off. 1200-1400 an hour is easy though once you get in a rhythm. It takes 2 of us to run the machine fast though. One guy keeping components stocked and the other running the machine. Usually swap out every 300 or so. I also have 10 primer tubes so you can get ahead of the machine. 10 is plenty for me since after about an hour I need to walk away from the machine. The biggest time saver IMO with the 1050 over the 550 is the primer seating. There is no "wasted" movement since you seat on the stroke. Seating on the 1050 like that always made me not be able to keep a decent rhythm.

So is my parts list up top correct if I do order this thing?

I already have an auto drive on my brass prep 1050. I havent been able to bring myself to load on that press. I guess I like to feel(such that the feel is on a 1050) when loading and be able to stop if needed anywhere in the stroke. Every piece of brass that hits my loading press is pre-processed on the auto drive 1050.

From this I would suggest you just get a few more 1050's and skip the learning curve. The thought has crossed my mind. Not that running or setting up a 650 would be confusing, just the purchasing of small parts since I have never dealt with a 650. 1050's were confusing at first too and I missed buying several important parts like the body die for the swage backup or the lock ring for said swage backup. I love paying $10 in shipping on a 95 cent lock ring. I think they call that an idiot tax.

Priced out the 2 conversions for the 1050: 2x tool heads 45 ACP caliber conversion large primer conversion 223 shell plate(already have 223 powder funnel, #3 buttons, etc...) 45acp dies 223 seating and crimp die 2x powder through die's large pistol case collator plate I came to about $100 from buying a 650 with the 223 and 45acp setups. I love the way the 1050 runs, but for $100 I can just have another machine with the resale value that goes with that. Damn. Tough decision.