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Mike And

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    Mike Anderson

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  1. Thanks I will check that tonight
  2. I need help from you revolver guys. My problem is I have a S&W mod 57 (nodash) that seems to send jacket materal back at me. First the timing seems prefect in both double and single action (filly locks before hammer falls or before the hammer latches in single) Their was some cylinder shake so i replaced the cyl lock with an oversized one and its tight as a drum. My cyl gap is ~4-5 thou this never happened when using SWC @~ 1400 fps but I started loading JHP @~ 1600fps i started getting stuff shaving off. The bullets are 210 gr nosler over ~21 grns of H110 Any sugestions or should i send it back to S&W? Mike
  3. Thanks for all of the input. I was able to fix the case feed issue by tighting up the shell plate some more, as I said I am a very experianced 650 user so I was use to having the shell plate on the looser side. As for the tearing of the necks, it still does it, and I am moving VERY slow way slower than I do with my 650's. I think everyone is on to the Alignment pin issue. I have removed my prime system and that may contribute to the head twisting, but my set up is for Lp and I am processing 223 (Sp) so i do not want to damage the primer pocket (guess it would be fine if it was the other way around), still need to order a Sp setup from Brian. The head does seem to have a bunch of sloop when it is at it's uppermost position (the entire shaft and bellcrank assy as well. I think Tom has the anwser, create a smooth transitional radius on the back up rod.
  4. Thanks all for the sugestions, I checked the shell plate for debris it was brand new and properly lubed. Checked for any media in shell plate,(none found). I control the up stroke of the tool head re-checked the shell plate tension and it was properly adjusted yes using the proper locating Buttons. I also re adjusted the swage rod and back up expander die.
  5. So have my new Super 1050 shipped in 308, I ran ~200 rounds through it and had a few issues with the feeding on to the shell plate. I thought i would chalk it up to my inexperiance with the 1050. I have 2 650's and am very proficeiant with them and can solve any issue that has come up. After my 308 session I swapped out he tool head and shell plate to begin processing my big batch of 223. (tool head set-up: Dillon FL sizing die, 223 back up die and SP swage rod, removed primer asst, nothing, RT1200 and dillon 223 die, nothing, Lyman neck expander). I ran ~1500 pcs of brass and had ~ 50ea pcs that had a crushed torn neck that happened at the swage station. I was able to feel the problem and attemted to realign the back-up die, to ensure it was concentric, it was, also I slowed WAY down thinking I may have been going to fast and rocking the cases to much. I also re-cheched the tension of the shell plate and it was spot on. (i now have 40 canidates for 300 black out) I addition to this frustrating problem, the case feed was still an issue, locking up the machine, popping the brass out before station 1. Please any help would be appreciated
  6. Regarding one of the many comments.. Smell your powder (critters grow in moist enviroments) and they stink (skunked) I have many lbs (100) of powder that is more than 40 yrs old it is mostly old hurco now alliant powder blue, red dot it is perfect. however it has ben in Ca its whole life (low humidity). The only concideration for folks lets say in higher humidity areas is the drop weight of the powder. if you live in areas >68% RH and your powder is older than 5 yrs and in older paper / metal cans, just load ~10 less than usual and chrony the velocity. if the velocity seems lower than it should have been, your powder has taken on a little moisture. You can adjust up to your expected velocity by upping the charge weight. (above previous charge weights). You should note that the charge weight should not increase beyond 7% of your previous charge weight, or pressures could be exceeded. Given all the above info you should always work up your ammo paying very close attention to pressure excrisions Any way old powder that has been kept dry will always work.. Smell is everything!!
  7. I am having problems with my RF100 (small primers only) I have replaced the insert 2x and I have the fastner on the bottom loose to allow the insert to float. #1 problem The opening in the insert seems to be to large allowing ~4 primers / 100 to flip upside down just as they enter the insert to go down the tube. #2 problem is some primers do not flow out of the transfer tube when the clip is removed. Yes I have straightened the tube as best i can and have the spring and nylon washer in the proper position and the cap screwed down to depress the spring ~ 20%. By the way large primers have no problems at all.. Help
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