GunslingerDK

My match gun is the same, short forcing cone. Especially when loading short TC bullets I have to load very short. My practice gun is more forgiving and the rounds that hang a little in my match gun will fall in and out of the practice gun. If you can get by with a little shorter COL I personally would not start reaming out the chamber. My girlfriend's first CZ Shadow was a tight as a virgin's uhhhh sorry.... you get the picture! It could practically only shoot factory ammo none of our reloads worked.

Yeah just go for the middle of the A-zone and take the time needed to get A's.

It's been a while since I posted. Been busy with exams and projects, and work. I finished that a few weeks ago. I found the problem with my gun which was related to the mag catch. Fixed it and now have a gun that doesn't eject mags when it's not supposed to. since christmas I have been dry firing A LOT. Usually an hour a day, sometimes more. Have been working a lot with mag changes which have been kind of a weak spot for me. The mag changes have improved a great deal. I used to always f*** up 3/10 mag changes, usually with the mag hanging up in the magwell. That has almost gone away now, the mag changes are much more consistent and somewhat faster than they use to be. I have found out it helps me to slow down a bit just before the mag enters the mag well, instead of slamming it from the pouch into the gun with the same speed. It "feels" a little slower but according to the timer it is not. I have been using Ben's dryfire program which I like very much. Unfortunately I'm somewhat constricted due to the shape of my living room, and am unable to do mag changes running due to the wooden floor. I also use some of my own drills which is usually drawing while moving to the side, shooting targets of varying sizes to simulate distance, taking a few steps to the side while reloading and then shooting the targets again. My grip has become better and more consistent and can now do a 0.90 first shot to a 7 yard target. I was unable to do this a month ago. I doubt it will result in a sub 1sec draw in livefire but shaving off a few tenths is a good start. After a month of dryfire I'm eager to go to the range and the if it has made an actual difference. But winter has come, it is freezing outside. Wind chill factor around 10 degrees fahrenheit... too cold to get any decent work done, at least for me anyways. I have developed/stolen a series a drills to measure my improvement e.g. Bill Drill at 7, 12 and 25 yards, El Prez, Blake Drill and some of my own stuff. The idea is to shoot these drills every other month and monitor my progress. Can't wait to get started. Next week the weather will improve so I can clock my first scores....

I have yet to see any of the Xtreme guns at dealers. The finish is really nice I agree, but besides that you can turn you regular Stock III into an Xtreme without the help of a gunsmith, if you have an average knowledge of the platform. if you can get the normal one right away I would suggest you do. Since you are in Sweden Eric can ship you the parts you need within a week.

What info are you looking for? The stock 2/3 Xtreme have a more durable finish and contain the following parts: Xtreme hammer Xtreme firing pin Xtreme front sight Xtreme guide rod Xtreme aluminum grips Xtreme base pads for the magasines. They are also polished internally from the factory. I have handled them all, they are nice!

I am located in Denmark, which is why I asked about the Klass Kote. Pretty sure we do not have that here. But it seems I can use any quick drying epoxy paint. The speed in which it dries must depend upon the amount of hardener used. If the dry tumble method proves to be too time consuming or do not yield the desired results, I will try your method. Thank you for your help.... your bullets look very good, Chris.

Your method sounds faster than I had imagined ! Klass Kote is just a brand name for a 2 part epoxy paint system, correct?? I am surprised that you can apply multiple coats without backing in between, but you have to wait a few hours for the paint to get dry to the touch?

Sounds like you got a solid method worked out. I shoot somewhere between 30.000 and 40.000 a year, so for me doing a method that requires 3 coats just involves too much labor. I am familiar with the method developed by wiederlader tv. It looks fairly easy but again, 3 coats is too much hazzle for me. There is a dry tumble method in which you tumble the bullets dry, and then bake them... just one coat. I will see if I can make this work, and hopefully it will ad a maximum of 0.002 inches, meaning I won't have to size the bullets I use for training.

Ohh you are into powder coating as well? Iam about to jump the gun on that myself. Have been casting for years and look forward to seeing if the powder coating makes the reloading process easier. What method do you use?

Also remove and clean the extractor and change the extractor spring every 10.000 rounds, more often if you use the pistol in competition. In my 10 years of shooting Tanfoglio the most problems I have encountered has had something to do with the extractor. I don't know how much you shoot, but plan on having to change the rear sight after 50.000 rounds, could be less, could be more.

I have 3 Stock IIs all setup the same way. One has significantly less stack up than the others, the only difference is it has shot 30.000 more. It has always had a smoother DA than the others...

He is shooting Production so he is definitely still using the FPB, as the removal would render his gun illegal in IPSC. Judging from the trigger pull on his gun, I believe he is using a 14 perhaps even a 13lbs hammer spring.

Iam using Magtech primers for practice, and Federal for matches. I have no problem setting of federals with a 14lbs spring. I polished the firing pin on my practice gun and this seems to help. I will remove the FPB on my practice gun and see if it does anything.

I use the FCD without internals in the 2nd station on the 1050. I only use it to get rid of the bulge on the buttom of the case, for which it does a really good job. I use the Dillon taper crimp. Ohh, and I only use lead bullets.

Yesterday we had the local Level 2 match. Due to my mental breakdown the last time, I had decided that this time I would take a different approach. I wanted to go through the match without any mistakes, and without starting out in hyper speed which is usually one of the mistakes I make. I had decided to focus one grip and my front sight as a means to distract my conscious mind from the end result. I finished 2nd, at 98%. I won 5 out of 8 stages but what bumped me down to 2nd place, was a mike/no-shoot at 20 yards on the first stage. I must have been pushing it a tad too much because I did not call it as a low shot. I also managed to eject a magazine from the gun, after a loaded start with an empty chamber. I really don't know why that happened because it never happens in training no matter how hard I'm pushing it or beating the gun, that cost me about 2 seconds on that stage. The other stages went well, good hits and decent times. I guy was injured doing the building of the stages and had to go to the ER, so we were only 5 on the squad. I told myself, f*** it, I don't want to hustle and bitch about having to RO the others. When I was up I took my time to do another walk-through.... I'm the RO, what are they going to do? Tell me I can't ?

Couldn't you remove material from the lower left sear leg? I have been told this is where the reset happens....

I haven't heard about this sear. Is this a Tanfoglio OEM part or is it from Eric's Xtreme line? Last time I spoke with Eric he told me that he was using his Xtreme hammer with the "long" sear (offered though his web page). Yes I am quite sure they are OEM. But they look like the old type 1-piece sear aside from the golden color and the fact that they extend further back, resulting in the hammer striking the firing pin with greater force. MWC, yes they are drop in, no fitting required. I had EGW parts in my old Limited Custom, and honestly these parts are just as good as the EGW. In IPSC Production you are not allowed to switch to after marked internals, and even if you were I would go with Eric's parts. The EGW takes to much fitting to my liking... I dont like fiddling with guns more than necessary.

Eric's hammer is about 3 grams lighter than the factory one. The hooks are either cut in a different angle or cut more precise and so they improve the trigger pull dramatically. Combined with the new golden 1-piece sear it practically eliminated ant and all creep, and the SA become very crisp. Definitely one of the best improvements I have made on my Stock II

You certainly aren't sugar coating it .... but you are right on the money. I have no mental game. I used to be "okay" in that department... but that was before I had actually won anything. I bought and read Lanny's book a year ago. Back then I was too busy with practicing the actual shooting that I never took the time to implement his mental program. I remember having difficulty turning it from theory into practice. Better work on it this winter and see if I can't implement it, thanks.....

I have a lot of FP springs since they come with the Wolff recoil springs so will try and cut it to see if it helps. Not long ago I read a thread in here where someone mentioned that the Xtreme FP does not work so well with a polished FPB, as the factory pin does. If this is true I cannot understand why it shouldn't? I can't see why an unpolished part would work better than a polished one. Can anyone confirm this?

I'm starting this journal as a means to keep track of my improvements as an IPSC shooter. I've been shooting since 2009 (2009 - 2012 Limited, 2012- Production), and have come a long way these past 4 years. I really want to improve my game and have the talent to do so, but have become my own worst enemy lately. 2013 has been a very good year for me. I won my first 2 PM's, finished as the 2nd best Danish shooter at the EHC and have won a lot of local matches. But since I started winning, things started to go wrong. I think I just want it too bad. The funny thing is, that when I go abroad and shoot Level III matches I do quite well, but at the local level II's I often crash. I also often win, but rarely shoot up to my level and therefore not satisfactory, I'm shooting too far from my real potential. I have come to the conclusion that the expectations of other people as well as my own is a big part of my problem. I finished 2nd at this year's Nationals, 2% after the guy who has held the title for the past 7 years. We shot 4 matches together this year, and the one match he beat me was the nationals - the one I wanted to win the most. We shot the regional championship today. Again, I "expected" to win, or at least knew I was capable of winning, and other people expected me to win. Maaaan I blasted through the 2 first stages as if I had totally forgotten how to operate a firearm. Spent 6 shots on 3 full-size poppers at 10 yards, missed a small popper and got a miss on a full-size target at 5 yards doooh! 2nd stage a miss on a full-size target at 3 yards and just poor hits on paper and misses on steel throughout the match. Finished 4th at 88% of a guy I usually beat. Needless to say, I'm bummed. I was way too jacked, could literally hear every heartbeat resonning in my ears, I couldn't keep my hands still and had problems settling my sights. by the third stage I had burned off most of my adrenalin and it started getting better.... but not good enough. I believe my subconscious wanted to win, and I lots focus of the task at hand = to shoot! Another thing that bothers me at the local Level II's is the insufficient number of RO's, usually only 2 for a 7-8 man squad, of which I am always one. This means I have poor time to do a proper walk though, I have no time for visualization and never even get time to reload my mags before it's my turn to shoot or run the timer again. This irritates me, and makes me angry and I loose focus because of it. Me shooting 30.000-40.000 rounds a year seems like a huge waste of time and money when I can't even pull my act together and win a local Level II match. My level of shooting far surpasses my mental game. I really have to shift my focus towards being more calm and gathered and believing in myself. I have to accept that the mental (and boring) aspect of the game is where my time is best spent and where I can gain the most. I think you can sum it up by saying I'm a good shooter but a bad performer! What I need to work on: 1. Stop WANTING to win and simply start focusing more on execution. 2. Stop being annoyed by things like too few ROs on my squad and people not patching (LIKE I TELL THEM TO)! 3. Learn to ignore other peoples' expectations of me. 4. Set specific goals for the local Level II matches as a means to distract my conscious mind and redirect it away from wanting to win. (Thanks for this one, perfect girl friend.) 5. After each stage write down what went good/bad and why. (Thanks for this one, perfect girl friend.) 6. Start seeing local Level II matches for what they are, practice for the 5-7 international Level IIIs I shoot each year. 7. implement Lany Bassham's mental management program. As I'm writing this I'm actually glad that my mental melt down happened. I'm now on a path of turning a bad day into something positive. I probably wouldn't have if i hadn't started this range journal. I hope this will make me a better shooter.... Every time we screw up and shoot what we feel is a bad match, we should try to take something home that we did do well. I did have one stage win today. Of course it was the last stage of the day, when nothing was at stake: Thanks for listening.

I have read that some people cut coils off of the FP spring. I assume this means less resistance for the FP, but will it retract consistently? Any other downsides to this mod?

Nealio , that sounds good. I Will try this and see if it help. When you say hook do you mean the little hook that is located on the buttom og the FPB? Right below the flat area of the block?

Im having light strikes on one of my stock 2's. Both Guns are set up the same: xtreme firing pin, xtreme hammer and a Wolff 16lbs hammer spring. One of the guns has more FTI than i like. When pressing the FP with a punch there is more resistance than with the other gun. Would it help to polish the pin? What about the FPB, is there something i can do to that to ensure more constant ignition?

Getting american made powder is not easy and they are usually very expensive. I bought vectan because I shoot a lot and I do not have many options. I will just have to live with an occasional under powered round b