ck1

G22 is a great platform, could be the last gun you'll ever need if you wanted it to be... Like Jman said, do some searches, all the info you'd ever need is around. If you want to do a quick and cheap upgrade drop $15 on a 3.5lb connector and look up the $.25 trigger job, as for sights you'll find the Warren/Sevigny's get high marks around here (Ameriglo Defoor's are pretty much the same thing but cheaper). The shooting part is the hard part... Two words: Ammo & Practice. Good luck.

Surprised it took so long... Knew it was only a matter of time before we heard that one.

Ok... The sanding method isn't that crazy after all. I got out a 180 grit 3M sanding block and small piece of grip-tape and set out on it going back and forth between the two... Looking pretty good now and seems to be working a bit better. Sanded the callus down and made it smooth (ironically sorta like polishing up a trigger bar or connector) and now on the draw it doesn't seem to be getting caught up as much and is far less painful already. I'm going to "polish" it up as needed to hopefully keep it from going back to being such a bump, and hopefully in time I'll be fixed up and "cured", a callus there is no big deal, but a bump gets painful crushed up against the trigger-guard over and over enough to where it interferes with my grip. Thanks.

Got a pretty bad case of Glock knuckle, never really used to get it, but I experimented with a Gen4 for 5000+rds and a bunch of dry-fire at the beginning of the summer and think the smaller SF grip I was running with it is what started it. Since then it's kind of persisted (even after going back to Gen3 which fits/works better for me), and it's getting irritating as some days (like the day after a range day or a bunch of dry-fire practice) it's actually pretty painful and is messing up my grip... If I get the trigger-guard on top of the callus all is well and like things once were, problem is that on the draw most of the time I end up crushing it into the side of the trigger-guard just making it worse... Any ideas? Sounds dumb, I know, but it's screwing with my grip so anyone who has an idea on how to get rid of it I'd sure appreciate the help. (for those that don't know what I'm talking about, "glock knuckle" is when you get a bump/callus between your knuckles on your strong-hand middle finger from rubbing under the trigger-guard... for some it's no big deal, for some it sucks.)

Call it what you want, it's still getting battered if you run too light a spring. How so? Or what do you mean when you think "frame battering"? As I understand it, in a 1911 or other metal gun, the metal to metal collision that can happen at the end of the slide's travel range with too light a spring causing/leading to problems is what "frame battering" is. I've never seen or heard of a Glock experiencing anything like that, and guess if there was frame battering taking place it would maybe weaken the front rail's set in the polymer, but that would just get you a new lower from Glock... never heard a case of that happening.

No such thing as frame-battering in Glocks, they flex. Now, with an 11lb spring I'm assuming you're running a reduced power striker spring too, if so, I'd be more worried about potential light-strikes with the WWB if you're used to setting off Federal Primers (not sure what Atlanta Arms uses as primers but in a lower PF match round I'd guess they're Federal's... might want to inquire unless anybdy knows?). FWIW, If I'm correct and you maybe decide to end up using a stock striker spring, I wouldn't go below a 13lb spring for fear of having it fire out-of-battery.

Can one of you guys post a pic of what the newest 9mm magazines with the spacer in the rear look like? Then of course, anyone know where to get some?

I ordered like 4 different springs last summer from Wolff for an Elite Match (same spring) and every single one that showed up was too long, they would have the hammer dragging on the bottom of the slide while racking the gun with with the hammer back... I must've took the thing a part 10 times trying to figure it out (and it did the same stuff you describe a couple times when I really pushed the suckers onto the hammer spring post/strut causing a bind). Finally, after comparing it to the stock spring's length and seeing that the new ones where too long, I just clipped off a couple coils and it worked perfect from then on, BUT, FWIW, don't get to clip-happy or lightness-greedy and clip down from a 16lb or at least a 15lb or you'll just end up running into light strikes unless you're also using one of Henning's Xl firing-pins. Good luck.

Cool thread. Gotta say I'm a fan of the RTF2 texture or grip-tape on my guns though (the 100% humidity we shoot in all summer where I'm located will change some minds).

The tritium itself is green, yes.

Those sights are Ameriglo's pro glo front (tritium with orange around it) with their pro series rear, it's called the Hackathorn set now (kinda cool that I stumbled onto the same set-up as Hack did as I had them for a while), they're really great SD sights, best I ever found actually, they're just a really wide profile (.140 wide front, .180 rear notch), so out past 15 yards they can be a challenge... WAY better than Big Dots but kind of the same "fast acquisition-type of thing", I do recommend them. These days I've just gone to all-black irons in a thinner profile as I've found it just works better for me (Ameriglo Defoor's .115 wide front with .150 rear notch), I respect Bart's point of view but I do train in low-light now and again (mostly by dimming the lights at a local indoor range FWIW/coincidence) and just have gotten accustomed to really looking for the light bars around the front blade more than any dot... Other than when shooting from a bright room into a dark room it's actually not too bad once you're accustomed to it, really just as Bart said, there are many situations you find yourself in that are low-light, but few that are no-light where it'd really be an issue. For some, tritium might be a better choice, but not for me anymore is all, to each his own, there's no "wrong way" or "right way" IMO, not practicing in low-light ever might be the "wrong way" I guess as it teaches you a lot and is valuable... Honestly it's just what one feels most comfortable with as while we'd all like to think that in a life or death situation we'd be lining up our sights, the available data says we'll be tracking our target out of pure instinct whether we like it or not, so, practice with whatever you use is what's most important...

Hey! That's my gun (one of 'em anyhow)! ALL night sights are only good for low-light scenarios, NOT full-on darkness, whether front only or both front-and-rear... if you're talking self-defense, if you can't see your living/breathing target clearly, you shouldn't be shooting at it, period. This is a very subjective thing, and opinions will vary, but IMO tritium/night sights are completely optional and I've since transitioned to not even bothering with tritium at all and now run all-black irons on all my pistols. Unless you're in certain low-light situations regularly (like say as a sentry on an evening shift at a security check-point or something) tritium/night-sights only really provide an advantage at dawn and dusk, the other 22+ hours of the day they might as well not exist and in some cases mean you're not carrying the best sights for the lion's share of your time... If talking about possibly using a firearm on something that's living/breathing, then if it's really dark, you need a light 'cause you need to see your target and if you can't see your firearm clearly... well, you get it. As far as match shooting is concerned, of course night-sights can be put to good use and are a help when shooting low-light/dark stages as in we're shooting for a score (-0 is better than -3...), but in "real life" their actual advantage is very debatable. In my case I only encounter low-light matches once or twice a year so it's not a huge deal to me, if my last name was Sevigny or something and I really had a good chance of going home with some money, then I'd probably mount up a set for the limited matches that I had to. I seriously doubt that only having tritium up front would handicap one from being able to make an SD shot that would indeed be made with front-and-rear tritium in place, moreover, IMHO lots of practice and good index is worth way more than any tacticool night-sight set anyway and a good friend of mine who's an Optometrist has told me that bright tritium on rear sights would actually only likely make things more confusing to your eyes/brain and make shooting harder in low-light. So... YMMV as they say...

Both are fine pistols and have great reputations... but one has a reputation for breaking now and then, and the other has a reputation for breaking almost never...

Should be noted that the RTF2's wear-in... I had the same opinion that Duane did at first with a new one, thought it was a little too sticky sometimes, it starts out really aggressive but after a little while it breaks-in nicely.

RTF2 rules.

Deleted.

FWIW, The 02 spring I was sent for my Gen4 G17 did nothing more than make the gun's lock-up weaker and just messed up the trigger break, didn't change the slide-speed or slide-resistance in the least (which is the whole problem and why it short-strokes now and then and stovepipes/feed-jams). I had a few more stoppages and the Gen4 experiment is over for me. I took a hit and traded it in for a 3rdGen RTF2 G17 as I just lost confidence in the Gen4 and wanted to go back to concentrating on my shooting instead of beta-testing a pistol, which is what I was feeling like I was doing with the Gen4. I know there are guys out there who's Gen4 17's have run great, mine had more than double the stoppages that I've ever seen in any of my 3rdGens over the span of years and thousands upon thousands of rounds, it just wasn't "right" and had to go. My "new" 3rdGen G17RTF2 has passed over 1500rds without any drama whatsoever, just like I expect and just like I'm used to. Ahhh... boring reliability creates such a nice calming feeling.

IMO the 15lb ISMI is a safe bet in 9mm if you're looking for a little better than the stocker, you'll get better sight tracking and less perceived recoil, but no worries of out-of-battery fireworks... Lasts a very long time too, maybe as long as the 17lb stocker, I have one that's seen over 7500rds and still works/feels great.

I was speaking figuratively, you're correct, put me down -20. Must disagree on the spring though, they're not the same as the ones that have been in the subcompacts and are far too stiff making the Gen4's prone to malfunction. If yours runs good I just hope it stays that way and if you like the Gen4 over the 3rdGen guns I'd pick up the Jager rod so you can use a "normal" spring.

What I have run into are a variety of failures to extract and double feeds. Ejection is erratic, but not as bad as some. Have had 3-8 malfunctions in our club matches... I gave up on my Gen4 G17 and took a $150 hit to trade for a RTF2 3rdGen... long story short, IMO the guns have inherent problems with their dual-recoil springs and if you plan on running one I'd get an aftermarket rod/spring asap. I went about 4000rds with 7 stoppages before I gave up on it, but the occasional 180-degree-stovepipe-with-double-feed every now and again continued... messed me up and took me from near the top to the bottom at a couple matches too, yesterday it stovepiped/double-fed after I had fired a couple rounds and knocked down 2 steel poppers setting off 2 disappearing movers... by the time I cleared it the targets were gone and I was down like -50, suddenly the match wasn't even worth skipping sleeping-in and making the drive... I dunno, but IMO the Gen4 G17's don't deserve to be called G17's, I've had 3 different 3rdGen G17's that saw thousands of trouble-free rounds, the Gen4's are a different animal and while it cost $150 to trade for the "old" one I'm actually happy about it as I now am comforted in the fact that my gun will likely almost always go bang, just like a Glock 17 is supposed to

I was having some consistent stoppages here and there over the course of a bunch of rounds and that would be abnormal for a 3rd Gen Glock 17 and was concerned enough about it that I called Glock quite a few times and somehow was luck enough to get an "02" recoil assembly (supposedly the new softer one for the Gen4 G17). Glock CS is first rate, as I pushed them enough were they were willing to get what I believe to be a pre-production one out to me to fix my issues and take care of a customer which is great. Thing is, the spring has arrived just as it feels as though my original spring has finally broken-in and softened up to a point where the failures every few hundred rounds seem to have gone away and while it's still on the stiff side as far as racking it, it's now at least in the neighborhood of a stock 3rdGen G17 (this is after around 3300-3500rds on the original recoil assembly). After shooting it a few hundred rounds on-and-off against the original assembly, and switching them out and dry-firing and racking it lots, I've settled on just sticking with the original assembly and will not be using the 02 spring. I'm not a firearms engineer by any means, but as it seems from what I can detect the particular 02 spring that I received isn't really much if any lighter as far as racking/slide-speed is concerned, but, it is softer in how tight the action locks itself up which I could feel in the trigger immediately, shooting-wise the timing of the gun just felt completely "off" when shooting with the 02 installed, it was opposite to I think what most of us would expect when going to a slightly lighter spring: the felt recoil was greater, and the sight tracking was all over the place and the way the gun cycled just felt weird... really hard to describe, but a lot of the things I've come to like about shooting the Gen4 just deteriorated. In dry-fire it's no contest at all that the 02 spring effects the trigger feel negatively which is also pretty weird as the only time I've ever felt this is in a case of running a really light or worn recoil spring in a 3rdGen G17 along with a stock striker spring, basically a set-up that's on the edge of firing out-of-battery... the 02 isn't going to go out of battery or anywhere near there, but I could feel the difference in lock-up in the trigger nonetheless; super weird. Only thing I can think is that the outer spring isn't the one that needs to lose coils, maybe it's a couple off both or just off the little inner spring... I don't know really, just know this one didn't increase the slide-speed for some more built-in reliability against potential softer shooting 9mm loads and maybe make the gun less intolerant to less than a perfect grip, which is what I'm used to over thousands upon thousands of rounds through 3rdGen G17's. This is just one example, and it's entirely possible that I just got a bad spring I guess, but think I just got a crash course in finding out that a dual-spring set-up is a lot more different than the single-spring set-ups I'm used to then I first thought. I'm not completely sold yet on the reliability of my Gen4 with it's original spring either, so if I experience anymore random stoppages I may just take the hit and trade it in towards a 3rdGen RTF2 since the changeable backstraps aren't a deal-breaker in my case and boring reliability is far more important to me. (On a side note, I've decided to shoot the gun in "SF" form for a while to see how I do with it and evaluate if it's a positive for my shooting or not before I decide whether or not to get rid of it, I've found I'm not a fan of how the backstraps attach, as I can feel the "seam" in the web of my hand on prolonged shooting sessions and have noticed the longer pin used with them can work itself loose, the top of the backstraps should fit into a slight recess in the frame as do the sides IMO, but for smaller hands the Gen4 is no doubt better.)

I ask myself this same question all the time... my one-hole groups at 10-15 yards don't look so pretty at 25. IMO, it can be a mixture of some of the things mentioned: (1) very small movements upsetting the gun that don't show up on paper close become easy to see the further out you go... (2) like Flex said, could be your eyesight (coincidentally, just got my contact Rx updated and I've seen an honest improvement when shooting at distance) (3) ammo quality... while I've seen plenty of nice groups from WWB, it does seem that when shooting for accuracy further out the quality of the stuff you're shooting does come into play, this is normally something I wouldn't put a whole lot of stock in, but not to long ago I was out proving to a friend that Glocks can indeed be really accurate (he's a 1911-snob Glock-hater, or was anyway...) and I got some VERY impressive groups shooting my 124gr +P Gold Dot carry stuff, while the best group I got out of the cheaper WWB/Champion/Monarch stuff wasn't even half as good, gotta say that at distance I'm a believer, the ammo counts. I'd add that while it's old news to some, I went from shooting a .140-.125 wide front sight to a thinner .115 and find I'm far less vague when shooting further out.

My Gen. 4 guide rods won't be legal until We make the Polymer version. Hope to make them if the steel ones do well. Thanks, jager Thanks for the reply, I'm going to wait for the polymer version since I'm one of the few who shoots the same gun in matches that they carry everyday, I approach the matches as a form of "practical practice"...

Got my first "Most Accurate" and finished 7th overall shooting my first IDPA match in a while the other day. This was my first match ever shooting the all-black irons, pretty sure I remember seeing my sight picture on every trigger-pull, I'm sold on 'em.

Will using your guide-rod make the gun illegal in SSP or is it still legal with one? Was about to place my order when I thought of it....