shred

There are IPSC and IDPA matches in both way-North and way-South San Antonio, depending on the weekend. There's also a steel match up north on the first Saturday of the month. The match yesterday was cancelled due to flooding, but we hope to have that under control soon. If you want to drive some, there are matches in Austin and similar parts as well. Check out: http://alphamike.shred2.net http://texas-steel.freeyellow.com http://texasactionshooting.u4l.com and http://www.krtraining.com/FAQs/AustinGunFAQ.HTML has a list of many other ranges/matches

I've been wondering if quick posting of scores on the internet might be encouraging shoot-n-scooting. Seems like we used to sit around more when the results were either there at the range or in the next month's newsletter. We have one club that is trying to encourage staying & BS-ing with food and snacks-- I hope they keep at it.

Getting all the cases out of the cylinder guaranteed is why most of the local pinshooters went with moonclipped guns. It's probably more important with heavier loads. I've been meaning to try my 3" 610 in IDPA one of these days.

What with all this new interest in magazine length, here's something I threw together to measure magazines, ala If you're close on this gauge, you'd better go check with one of the real EGW ones (to give them credit, I swiped the clearance cut from the USPSA design) Parts List: 1- Cheapest square available at hardware store (mine is 6"x12" and cost $3.50). 1- Window security stop Construction: Step 1: Cutout a notch for basepad clearance in the long side. Except for keeping the bottom even, the dimensions aren't critical-- 0.5" x 1.5" should be more than enough. I used a jewelers saw and dremel to make the cut, and did final cleanup with a file. Step 2: Get a metric ruler and measure 140mm along the side with the cutout. If you got an inch-ruled square, this should be right at the 5-1/2" mark. Make a permanent mark here. I used a jewelers saw to make a small cut. Do the same for 170mm. That mark should end up at 6-11/16" (USPSA reportedly gives you an extra 1.25mm for both 140 and 170-- you can build that in if you like living on the edge) Step 3: Bevel one edge of the stop at about 45 degrees-- the idea here is to provide clearance for the angle of the magazine feed lips. Step 4: Attach the stop with the front edge of the bevel even with one of the marks you made. Use: Set the stop for the length you want to check for. If the magazine lies flat between the stop and the base, it passes.

And my favorite piece of match advice... "Never underestimate the value of good socks"

I never saw that with my 9x25-- usually the cases would crack or get too long way before that. What would occasionally happen is some tumbling media would get in with the loaded rounds and end up in the shoulder-part of the chamber-- major jams trying to clear that out.

Jerry Miculek once told me that for bowling pin-type shooting he closes one eye...

Probably for most of the same reasons nobody shoots 9x25 Dillon anymore-- Bottleneck cases are a pain to reload, you need to get just the right bullets, and you're down rounds over a Super.

Are those OK as measured with the USPSA mag gauge? If so, I'll have to pester Beven some more. I made up a mag gauge a while back and the results at a local match were.. interesting.. Lots of people were slapping Dawson pads on 170mm tubes, thinking they were good and getting 29-30 rounds in the gun, but it turned out they were way over 171.25mm.

Also check the case-insert-slide-cam (the big black pyramid part that operates the case feed) is in the right adjustment and in good shape.. Mine got cracked by the attachment bolt and moved around a bit, which caused all sorts of trouble. If it doesn't push the case over quite far enough, it's jam-city.

Out to 10+ yards, most of the gas blowback (GBB) Airsofts will be plenty accurate. They have a "hop-up" device that backspins the BB in the barrel so it doesn't drop until much later (if you crank the hop-up too far, the BB's actually rise as they fly). Recoil for mine is about like a .22 or race-gun, maybe a bit less. You can get 'heavy recoil' versions with more kick. There are a several things to watch out for on Airsofts-- some of them take different gas (generally the Japanese ones are more realistic and use weaker gas), and some are more robust than others. You need to silicone lube the parts every so often. Check out the reviews and websites to make sure you're getting a good one if you plan to shoot a lot. Noise is pretty low, and the gas is some sort of enviro-correct freon replacement. It is possible to use "duster gas" as used in computer spray-dusters, though power is a bit lower and you need to lube more often. Note that the bb's will puncture both unprotected skin and drywall at close range. They seem to shatter on hitting steel. Vince may know more-- supposedly they do full on Airsoft-IPSC over in his parts. (Edited by shred at 9:17 am on June 30, 2002)

Hmm.. I may be a bit confused here.. Are you talking about the casefeed arm and casefeed bushing? (those parts move back and forth and cases drop down through them-- P52 in the online 650 manual). I get troubles there when the big triangular piece (case insert slide and cam, P54) isn't set right, or there's a bunch of cleaning-media chunks in with the brass clogging stuff up.

the Walmart guns aren't near as good as the real gas-operated Airsofts. Poke around on http://www.redwolfairsoft.com and places like that for the whole scoop.

Yeah SG, I can relate. Every so often I get asked who my doctor is. I say "I don't have a regular doctor, but I've got an orthopedist". She sees me come in the door and it's "What sport was it _this_ time??"

Primers getting turned-- check to be sure the primer punch is screwed in tight (and is the correct size). If it gets a bit loose, all kinds of hinky stuff can happen. Check for a burr on the feed insert too.

We had a batch of shoot-n-scooters for a while that didn't help tear down and put away props. So, we instituted a $5-to-leave-early policy. The extra cash we got paid for lunch and drinks for the people that did help. The non-tapers we put all on the same squad, so they have to do it or do without. (Edited by shred at 2:48 pm on June 25, 2002)

Insufficient crimp? Bullet diameter too large? OAL too long?

Vince, from what I've heard, you should already have some "familiarity" with both of those terms.. (although maybe not in this context) (Edited by shred at 4:39 pm on June 24, 2002)

Another tip: If you're adjusting the powder measure and have primers in the feeder, pull the black plastic angle part that advances the primer feed off the machine-- it's one hex bolt to remove and install, and it doesn't need to be adjusted.

Ted Bonnet once told me to dry-fire 10 times for every live-fire shot. Of course I've been studiously ignoring that advice, but that's why he's won a couple of world shoots and I haven't (or so I tell myself.. ) Another handy dry-fire tip he had is to hold the sight picture for a couple of heartbeats after dropping the hammer. Gets you away from the "Yeah, that was an A in 0.7" mentality if you _really see_ where the sights were aligned.

Matt's bringing this thread back up got me rereading BE's "noticing" post again, which reminded me of something that happened at a local match.. So I've just started shooting this 30+ round mega stage with my big-stick mag installed when I notice (see?) a sudden cascade of shiny-brassy-stuff heading for my feet. Without even thinking much, I reload and keep on going. I'm pretty sure I didn't even think "the basepad came off".. until later after I was done.. It was a bit wierd, I can still recall the impression of the ammo cascade, but no recollection of actually "thinking" about it or what to do, even though that's the first time it's ever happened to me. (Edited by shred at 2:10 pm on June 21, 2002)

If you're talking about what I think you are, my old Glock had a beveled "whatever" rail, but it was pretty obviously machine-cut like that. What is the slide-part that strips rounds off the mag and shoves them up the feedramp called?? (Edited by shred at 1:49 pm on June 21, 2002)

..Drifting back again.. I've fit oversize stops a couple of times.. not a great deal of fun to be had there. much easier with some proper tools and stones though.

Ok, now I feel a little better-- I had some visions that you might be sticking these loads in a 70-year old antique or something. Anyway, almost all factory .38 Super loads are down the power scale, just in case you stick one in one of those antiques. Winchester's factory 125gr Silvertip load does 1250fps in my Super. The USA 130gr fmj do around 1175fps. Cor-Bon's +P are supposedly a bit better, coming in around 165 PF, but I've never used them.

But... did you send the "You'll never guess where I'm sending this e-mail from" e-mail? That's required for all new wireless users I think. Just put the seat down first. (oh yeah, anybody that wants all the gory details on locking down your wireless system so your neighbors, passers-by and teenage hackers can't get on and play with your stuff, drop me a line and I'll try to sort you out) (Edited by shred at 12:40 pm on June 20, 2002)