RocketCity1911

I haven't had problems with dirt getting in the slot down the side. That would probably happen more if there is sand on the ground or really small gravel or mud. But for most ranges and conditions, these mags won't get anymore dirty than ones that don't have a slot. I own both slotted and non-slotted and haven't seen a significant difference in the past year shooting at several ranges.

I didn't call them at the time because my gun was brand new and I wasn't sure what the problem was. A friend of mine looked at the mags and told me they appeared to be out of spec. He used his Dawson tuning kit on one of the mags, which put it in working order. He recommended that I go ahead and get the kit since the lips can go out of spec over time from being dropped during reloads. So, rather than gripe to Superior, I just went ahead and learned to tune the mags myself. As I measured each mag, that's when I figured out they were all tuned the same. I've tuned several STI/SVI mags for friends since buying the kit. I'd say feed lips can and will go out of spec. So, I'm not too tore up over what happened.

I have 3 - 140mm and 1 - 170mm Superior Firearms Tuned mags. I use the mags in my 9mm STI Steelmaster. I really like the slot cut down the side with the round count indicators. But, I have two negatives. 1. The feed lips were out of spec on all the mags when I first got them. I had to buy Dawson's tuning kit to put the lips in spec. After that, the mags ran great. (All the lips were wider at the back and narrower at the front, which was causing feed problems.) I'm not sure what the tuning philosophy was from Superior, but it wasn't working in my gun. 2. My mags came in sort of dull and dingy. For the money, I expected a little more shine. There was no shine. But, I polished them and put a pretty good mirror-like shine on them after a couple of hours work. Overall, I'm very happy with the mags and would buy again -- mainly because of the slot cut down the side. You can certainly build your own and save some money, but either way the tuning is what makes them run and the Dawson kit is good money spent. Here is thread showing my mags before and after polishing: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=80675 A friend of mine bought a Superior 9mm 170mm mag after he saw mine. His ran perfect with no modification. I inspected his feed lips and found them to be within spec (according to Dawson's numbers). So, maybe my batch of mags didn't get the full treatment or something. But I'm still happy with the overall product and understood before I bought them that these types of mags need to be tuned periodically anyway.

Just got my Race Master in last night and I'm very impressed I've been using a Ghost holster for the past year and I can honestly say the RM is superior. I had no trouble attaching it to my CR Speed belt -- just dropped right in. The setup was easy. My STI Steelmaster fit perfect. Didn't have to do any mods to make it work. Did some dry-fire drills and couldn't believe how smooth the gun came out and went back in, yet was absolutely rock solid. The locking lever is a little different than what I was used to with the Ghost holster, but I don't see it being a problem. I may try to replace the lever with one that doesn't have serrations. Other than that, this holster is a Grand Freaking Slam

I've had this happen 4 or 5 times in an SDB and a couple of times in my XL650. With pistol cases, I just take the decapping pin out and then insert a T-handle hex wrench that fills up most of the cartridge diameter and beat the case out with a rubber mallot. Usually comes out after a few good whacks. I've sprayed in some lube before, but that doesn't seem to take away the need to pound it out. Also, I lube my brass with a shot of silicone spray before hand, but sometimes the case can be bulged bad enough that no amount of lube will prevent it from getting stuck. But it does help to lube the brass before hand. The press will run much smoother and some of those bulged cases that might act like they are going to get stuck will actually make it through the process. As for rifle cases (not on the SDB of course), that's a bit tricky. I don't load rifle, but a buddy of mine had one get stuck. He had to beat it out similar to what I described for pistol, except he used the decapping pin itself since it was stuck as well due to the neck of the case. After getting the case unstuck, he had to dremel tool the case off the decapping pin. Major pain

E Mont, Have you tried removing the extractor and cleaning it along with the tunnel it lives in? Also, with the slide off the frame, check if the extractor holds an empty case (not too tight, not to loose). I had some stovepipes this past weekend (like every couple shots). Removed the extractor and found it was loaded with crud. After clean up and reassembly, ran a mag through with no problems. After 5000+ rounds, it was past time. Hope this helps;)

I started with the SDB a few years ago and changed over to the 650 this year. The casefeeder is really nice and being able to use standard dies gives you more options. My rounds/hour easily doubled. However, the 650 does require more maintance and tweaking than the SDB. I would also recommend the roller handle and strong mount if you take the plunge. Now I'm looking at adding a Mr. Bulletfeeder to my 650. Not so much for the increase in rounds/hour, but to keep my left hand from cramping up and developing carpel tunnel

I have a DP Steelmaster and did have some stovepipes the first few times out. I cleaned it real good and put Slide Glide Lite on it. Problems went away. If I go over a 1000 rounds without cleaning it, the problem can show up again. I've put 5000+ rounds through it in the past 9 months. I shoot 115's and 95's mostly at around 125pf. Very soft feeling and a pleasure to shoot I have load info using Clays posted in the Steel Challenge and 9mm reloading topics.

I've been having troubles on my Dillon XL650 when an unused primer goes around the rotary primer disk and doesn't drop down the ski slope and instead tries to make a round trip back into the feed tube area. Of course, that causes the press to stop in mid-stroke and I'm forced to take the shellplate and primer system off to clear the jam The cause of this problem has to do with the primer binding up (half falling) instead of just completely falling as the disk cycles around. I started out by polishing up each of the holes in the wheel, but that didn't do too much. I then reasoned that if the unused primer were allowed to drop uniformly about 1/32" before it cycles to the ski slope, then maybe that would keep it from binding up and getting stuck. So, I made a little primer channel in the platform using my dremel tool plus rounded off the edge of the platform as well as polishing it smooth. This mod has completely fixed the problem. The unused primer drops down just a little bit before the next cycle drops it off the ski slope Hope this helps others that may be experiencing the same problem.

This fix worked for me too I just used the dremel tool to round off and polish the corner -- much smoother now

My Vette with plate named here on the forum. Thanks to all who made suggestions.

Thanks to everyone for all of the suggestions. I knew I'd get lots of good ideas from this group. Hopefully this thread will help somebody else who's looking for license plate ideas. And the winner is... RACEGUN Thanks to SARGE for recommending this one and to the guy who orginally used it in Ohio

I was watching Shooting Gallery (Zoot Suit episode) last night and came up with MCHNGUN (machine gun), RPDFIRE, & FULAUTO On the way into work this morning got behind a van that had GUNFUN.

Those are good. ME>YOU

Good one Randal Go easy, it's my first Vette

I've thought of that too. Hopefully something that has meaning to folks like us, but won't make me a target of the bad guys (or the good guys) will win out. Thanks for the suggestion

Thanks Sarge! RACEGUN is available. That's going to be near the top of the list

I just bought a Corvette and I'm thinking about getting a personalized license plate with a theme that combines the shooting sports and the speed & power of the vette I shoot Steel Challenge and USPSA mostly, so think along those lines. The standard plate in Alabama allows up to 7 digits. Here are some ideas I've come up with and are available according to the DMV: 1. OPENGUN 2. STANDBY 3. QWIKGUN 4. QWKDRAW 5. QWKSHOT 6. SPDOPTN (Speed Option) 7. ??????? Please let me know which one you like and any suggested names you might have. Please check your suggestions at the DMV (https://www.alabamainteractive.org/a...welcome.action) if possible. Thanks and I look forward to seeing what comes out of this

Thank you for sharing this sad story. I'm sure this will save many others from making a big mistake. This is why I do a search on Enos or post a question before buying. Sadly, someone has to be a guinnea pig when a new product comes out. Maybe RCBS will fix this, but until then...buyer beware!

Anybody using an RCBS Bullet Feeder on their Dillon 650? If so, how well does it work and are you happy with it or do you wish you had gone with another option?

My Steelmaster is an enhanced package from Dawson Precision. I also had Dawson install ultra-light weight sear & disconnector along with a Doug Koenig hammer. He offers the enhancement package by itself for $200. "Enhancement Package is simply making a great pistol better. Dave Dawson checks each pistol top to bottom for fit, function and appearance . We setup the breech face, extractor, ejector, mag release and feed ramp the same way we would a DP custom built pistol. Next we install a DP sear spring and tune the action. Then the pistol is test fired for flawless function, accuracy and zeroed at 25 yards. Hey if you were buying a Mustang how cool would it be to have Shelby tune it up a little first."

9mm

My gun is sighted in at 18 yards and I have a 12moa C-more red dot. At that range, my shots are staying within the dot -- I'd say 2". But that is not from a bench, just standing free-style.

SCSA rules state: "Note: Impact-rigged stop plates will respond to 120 power factor ammunition as per “scoring” above. Lighter ammunition may not stop the timer." If your ammo won't trigger the stop plate, then your time is adjusted to correct for sound-to-impact, which is based on 800 fps bullet speed. That will increase your total stage time by anywhere from .16 to .48 seconds depending on the stage. Other than that, I guess you could go to a low power factor or 750 fps as long as it will still cycle your gun, but if you are shooting with a compensator then you probably aren't working the comp to your benefit. I shoot a gun with a comp and want higer velocity to make the comp work better, but softer felt recoil. The 95gr bullets do that better for me than anything else I've tried. The power factor isn't critical for most steel matches, since few I've been to are actually using impact-rigged stop plates.

Below are my chrono results using 95gr JHP and 115gr FMJ Montana Gold bullets with Hodgdon Clays (gun is an STI Steelmaster shooting 9mm): 95gr Powder Charge (grains) Avg Velocity (fps) Power Factor 3.8 1121.1 106.5 4.0 1210.0 114.95 4.3 1289.5 122.5 115gr Powder Charge (grains) Avg Velocity (fps) Power Factor 3.8 1071.5 123.2 4.0 1079.0 124.2 4.3 1124.5 129.3 For steel challenge, the power factor is recommended to be 120 minimum. Comparing the 95gr to 115gr, I would say that the 95 feels noticably softer and I can reacquire the sight picture faster. The 95's are a little louder than the 115's, but not as much as major power factor loads would be. I saw no signs of over pressure with any of these loads. I have normally shot the 3.8 gr with 115gr FMJ as my steel load, but I'm switching to the 4.3 gr with 95gr JHP. NOTE: The 3.8gr with 95gr JHP had trouble cycling in my STI Steelmaster. All other loads cycled fine. Here is some video of me shooting the 95gr over 4.3gr Clays: