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RocketCity1911

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Everything posted by RocketCity1911

  1. I'm close to 3000 rounds in about three months with the RTS2 with no problems. My scope mount has come loose a couple of times. I finally got the screws locktite'd in real good. I bought from Shooters Connection in January and probably got a newer version. Did not have to do anything with the battery compartment as others have had resort to.
  2. Got mine in today. It is the real deal. Same box, instructions, and c-more as the other 3 I own...only much cheaper:)
  3. Just got an email from Amazon saying that my Blue 6 MOA Click Switch SlideRide was being shipped. Ordered it Jan. 4, 2015 for $137. Good thing I didn't need it right away, but for the price it was worth the wait.
  4. RocketCity1911

    RTS 2

    I bought and installed an RTS2 in January 2015. Have put over 2000 rounds through the gun including shooting the FL Open. So far, no issues. I really like it and hope my luck continues. As a backup, I did buy a crazy cheap slide ride on Amazon and a spare Allchin mount just in case I need to do a last minute swap. So far, I don't think I'll have to worry about it.
  5. I too use the 9mm shell plate for 38SC. Sometimes that wire that ejects the round can ride up and change the leverage point causing the round to bind. Make sure the wire is as low as possible. I put some slide glide on the wire as well.
  6. +1 CK Arms frames I've built two guns from CK Arms frames and have been very pleased. Just finished putting together an open gun using a CK Arms frame and slide. That was the easiest slide/frame fit job I've ever experienced! Definitely good value for the $
  7. It has been great to learn on and has served me well and it's not one thing but a bunch of small things that have added up. It's just that I am at the point where I don't want to search out a hack (like for the pendant) or find the right forum post for an answer. Plus I am losing steps right and left on the simple things like that tool tray I have been working on. I believe that to be the computer I have been using (small POS no expansion capability) so I may solve most of my performance issues with the computer upgrade but I might be just wishing and I will have the same issues with M3 but I guess what I am really looking for is support. So I am going for it. The worst that will happen is that I blow $175 and go back to LinuxCNC but I am really hoping to get my mill to cut what I want it to cut. I am still a NooB and maybe just grasping at straws but I won't know until I try. With the after market support of M3 and the built in functions I am hoping for more chips and less hacking in the software. But I may be just pissing up a rope... You can get a Mach3 license from http://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/products-page/cnc-cam-softwarefor $149.
  8. hossmachine has a couple of Mach4 vids on youtube. I like Mach3. The default screen is pretty good, but I've been using the aqua screen set that is available on their website as it displays info more useful for when I'm using the xBox 360 controller.
  9. I just bought a .355 4 port threaded hybrid with W/N ramp cut at Speed Shooters International. Maybe I was lucky, but have been trying to find that type of barrel for over a year. Schuemann doesn't respond to emails nor answer the phone from my experiences to date. But, it does seem like more barrels are finally getting to market.
  10. I use 115 Montana Gold JHP over 9.3 gr Silhouette. Makes 173 or so power factor.
  11. 60's Corvette Coves and Stingray down the hood...great for cruising through stages
  12. I've had this problem. The threads were not deep enough on the comp. I ran a tap through the comp (two times actually) and all was good. It was still snug after re-tapping. I've been shooting it for over a year now and the comp hasn't moved. Also, I used the align reamer tool as a guide when starting to screw the comp on to minimize any chance of cross-threading.
  13. +1 I read that book every winter. Just started my 5th time to read it cover-to-cover. Pages are starting to fall out, but I always find something that clicks with where I'm at in my shooting at the time.
  14. Start by finding your Natural Point of Aim (NPA). I do that by lining myself and the gun in the holster up to a staight vertical surface like a door jam or the corner of a wall or a target stand, then draw the gun with your eyes closed. Open your eyes and figure out where the dot is pointed. Adjust your feet until you can consistently draw the gun and when you open your eyes the dot is somewhere on the vertical plane. Once you have that, then work on getting the dot to appear at a specific spot in the vertical plane everytime you open your eyes. You want the draw to be instinctual and relaxed. Too much tension is the enemy of a fast, reliable draw. By closing/opening your eyes, you will develop your hand-eye coordination much better as well as your confidence at using an optic. When I shoot steel, I always align my NPA to the plate I'm drawing on knowing that I can I hit that plate with my eyes closed
  15. Congratulations Jared!!!! You've been an inspiration to many with your innovative ideas. Very happy to see you get things moving on the business side
  16. In my experience, very little other than drilling a hole. The steel in 1911's is too hard for most drill presses if you are thinking about milling type of work. You may get by with a very small milling type of operation, but you would be better off getting someone with a mill machine to do it for you or let you borrow time on the machine.
  17. You'll be sleeping in the garage for awhile;). That is a sweet machine!
  18. They got a 3D printer at work. Gave it a test run to see how the side panel cuts would feel. Felt pretty good even though it is scaled down a bit due to limitations with the printer. I spent all last weekend milling;) Flat topped the slide and cut the slot. Then cut the front sight and the Bomar rear sight. Had a booboo when a wire got loose on the z-axis motor controller. When that happened, up was down and down was down. That put a little nick in the slide before I could get her stopped. Cutting the Bomar was a bit of a pain. I got through it, but when tapping the elevation hole the tap broke. So, got the broken bit out and will now have to get one of my buds to fill it with weld so I can make another attempt. It's just metal, but I'm still loving it. Since I don't have a happy path on CAM software, I did all of my cuts so far using the wizards built-in to Mach 3 or just went manual with the Xbox 360 controller. The wizards are pretty neat though and I can probably use them for all of my slide cuts if need be. But, I want to do the panel cuts with a CAM built g-code as I have other plans for fancier cuts later...
  19. I have never seen free cad. Did you create the whole drawing or did you import the slide and frame assembly? I did the slide and sights. The frame was imported from cncguns.com. I did several iterations of the slide to get to this point and took measurements from my parts versus spec dimensions. Building solid models is a different way of thinking. YouTube vids helped me make some breakthroughs.
  20. The side cut will be a panel, one on each side designed to fit my thumb and finger. Goal is to be able to rack the slide quick without cutting my hands on anything. May look into a textured surface application or just skateboard tape. Even though these cnc machines can do some sexy cuts on a slide, I'm going for simplicity in this design.
  21. Working on this...trying to figure out the CAM part of the process...
  22. After several weeks of work, finally got my G0704 converted to CNC I'm running Mach3 on a Microsoft Surface Pro with an Xbox 360 controller for "manual" control. Had to buy the UC100 to convert from USB to Parallel Port, which seems to work great going through a USB hub. Playing with FreeCAD and HeeksCNC for now, but definitely hitting a learning curve with the CAD/CAM. I have been able to do some test runs cutting circular and rectangular pockets. I bought the motor mounts and ballscrews from automationtechnologiesinc.com and a stepper motor/power supply package off of eBay. Biggest problem with the motor package was a lack of instructions. Finally found the right document with a wiring diagram and some explanation. Luckily, I'm an EE, so the wiring went fairly smooth and getting the dip switches set correctly only took one iteration of trial 'n error. So far, this has been a lot of FUN!!!! I've been watching tons of youtube vids to help with my understanding. "hossmachine" on youtube and his website (g0704.com) has an incredible amount of info on CNC conversion of these machines. This thread and his vids + a few other folks vids on youtube have really saved my bacon on getting things setup. Will try to post some pics of my projects as things progress...
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