dart368

Well, lessons learned: 1. When doing a .25 cent trigger job, make sure that the connector is in properly and is not bent during the polishing job. 2. Do not assemble the gun without the connector to see what happens as you will not be able to remove the upper from the lower (Unless you lock the slide back and removed the firing pin). 3. Do not try to bend the connector as it is thin and fragile and will break. Bottom line, it was my connector. I put my Glock 34 connector in and the trigger pulls nicely.

Here is a review of one set up: I was short on money and did buy a belt but haven't gotten to try it out yet except dry firing.

I have a stock Glock 17. I did a .25 cent polish job on the lower half of the trigger and took it to the range. This was the first time I had shot it and in doing dry fire drills, I noticed the trigger had very little slack before the "Click" and the trigger pull was a little harder than my Glock 34. Of course, I figured it was just the extra 2 pounds of pull I was feeling. When I shot it, everything seemed fine until I got to about the 10th shot. I noticed that the trigger pull was getting harder and harder. Around the 20th shot, it was almost like I had to use two fingers to pull the trigger and make it go "Bang." One of my local Glock experts had told me that he believed the Glock should always be left stock and that problems arise when you tinker with the stock trigger or other accessories. I did the same polish job on my Glock 34 and have had zero problems. Any ideas?

When I first got into USPSA shooting, my buddy told me that production would be best for practicing reloading while moving. But I guess Limited 10 would give me the same advantage in that perspective. Besides that, would I have a better opportunity to go from being a "C" shooter to a "B" shooter?

I did a little research and found that on average, Limited had about 12 competitors, L10 had about 6 and Production had about 17 shooters. This is about the average each month. Intestingly enough, most the L10 guys are "C" class with maybe a D, a B or an A in there with the "M" guy usually taking first place.

Some awesome information. Thank you for all who participated.

So right now, I have a Glock 34 that I use in Production USPSA. I have polished the trigger components (The .25 Cent Trigger Job), a steel guide rod (but am not sure what the spring weight is as it was given to me as part of a "Trigger Job") and I used to have a lightened trigger spring but now have a stock one in place. I have been hearing about "Custom" triggers from Vanek and other places and am finding the prices to be around $150-$200. Nice set ups from the videos I have seen but can I get the same results by installing my own parts such as a trigger spring, extended/lightened firing pin for $80 and/or other parts? Or is it worth the money to get a complete set up? Or, should I "Build" my own and if I do, how much would it cost me?

I was using a Uncle Mikes paddle holster on a belt that I put over my pants belt. It was okay until I ordered a "Ready Tactical" 3 gun holster. WOW, what a BIG difference. It holds the gun in securely but it comes out SO easily when I am drawing. Extremely fast and a durable design. Plus, Chris at CPWSA is awesome at customer service.

Sorry, I didn't mean that production was ONLY for beginners. I just meant that it was a place to start.

Thats what I was sort of figuring. That it gave some sort of advantage in scoring. I was always under the impression that production was for beginners and limited was for more advanced shooters.

I notice a lot of people end up shooting limited 10 or limited or get classified in production and limited. I was introduced to production when I started and was told it is great training for reloads and gun manipulation. I am shooting a Glock 34 in production using 17 round magazines filled with 10 rounds. Why do others end up going to limited or limited 10? I can see the reasons why AND the reasons why not to go to Open....no limitations on the modifications, optics, lighter triggers and recoil, etc. but with the guns going into the thousands, I can see why I won't be going to try open. Can someone give me some reasons I might want to try limited or limited 10? Oh, and why only limited 10 when you can do limited? I am starting to confuse myself....

So, I saw that Brownells has a striker from Glockworx in which I get a small discount if I order from them: http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=27179/Product/CUSTOM-SKELETONIZED-STRIKER-for-GLOCK-reg- But it looks a little different from the Glockworx one: http://www.glockworx.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=155963&CAT=3698 Do you guys know if the Brownells is an extended one? Also, are there any cons to the extended one over a stock one? Thanks.

The main differences from what I have read is: 1. The on/off selector. On the Tac30, it is a push button which you have to push several times to get to the illumination needed. The MTAC has a dial: OFF-1-OFF-2-OFF-3.........so you can set it on the 7 setting if desired and click on time either direction to turn it off. 2. To go from 1x to 4x, the Tac30's whole body turns whereas the MTAC has a ring that turns. 3. The Tac30 turns off automatically after a while but the MTAC has to be turned off manually. I went with the MTAC.

I shoot right handed most time but my pain is in my left elbow. Same symptoms as above, hurts on top of elbow when trying to pick up something pinched in my fingers. Also I feel it when I dry fire one handed with my left hand. I had this a couple of years ago and it went away for a while but now it's back. I feel for you buddy. You might have to do some physical therapy to get it fixed. Good luck and I hope it gets better.

Great suggestions. Maybe I will try a lightened striker spring again with the extended striker.

I gave my Glock 34 to a local 3 gunner who is nationally ranked. He worked on it and gave it back to me and it was phenominal. The trigger felt so light and smooth. He gave me a little baggie consisting of a small spring and a large spring. I cannot find the baggie now as it is lost in the garage somewhere. I think it was the trigger spring and the striker spring. I also noticed that the guide rod isn't the bendable polymer one so I think he changed out that as well but am not sure. I have tried to call him and have left messages but he never returned my calls. I was at a match last month and I was getting light strikes. Some of the guys there helped me out and changed out my striker spring to a stock one. I now notice that the lightness is gone and it almost feels like my stock Glock 17. I looked into polishing and I noticed that nothing had been polished in the trigger group so I did that. My question is, what should I change my springs too? Is there a certain combination between the trigger spring, striker spring and recoil spring so the gun functions and I don't get light strikes? Thanks.

My shooting mentor told me this, "How much smaller is a compact compared to a full size? Half an inch? Maybe one inch? You still have to conceal it the same way...with a jacket, a shirt, a fanny pack, etc. With a full size, you get more ammo, better accuracy and it is the same gun you carry on and off duty." He carries a Glock 34 for both on and off duty. Just for what it's worth. Good luck.

I used crayola crayons on mine. So far, so good. I have had to touch up a few spots from where I got some CLP on it but no big deal. I heated up the engraving with a match and passed the flame over the crayon. I heard you don't want it too goopy (Is that a word?).

Thanks. I can't wait to try it out. Chris suggested the "3 Gun Holster" as it is a DOH. He had them in stock for my G34. Fast shipping and great communication.

I ended up ordering the "Ready Tactical" from CPWSA, one of the vendors here. Can't wait to get it. Thanks for all the advice.

I was hoping to see an answer to this one. I am curious about the XDM as well.

Dagger: Yes, It was me. With a very embarrassing day of shooting. Not to make excuses but I feel my head wasn't in the game that day. Not saying I am usually good and I know I have a lot to work on. Good meeting you and thank you for helping me out with the gun. Hope to see you in the future and if you ever have any advice for me, please feel free to help me out.

So the boss and our accountant (My wife) gave me the go ahead to purchase a new holster for my Glock 34 to be used in USPSA Production. I was looking at the Bladetech DOH but would be open to any of the others. Where online can I find the best deal? Free shipping, extras, perks, etc? http://www.reddotshooting.com/blade-tech-dohdroppedandoffsetholsterwithstingraybeltloop.aspx I found the above place. Are there any others or better deals out there? Thanks.

Thank you all for the input and I am always open to more. I have the Enos book on order and the Repitition And Refinement book coming as well. I am thinking that will start me out for now. I have to beleive that my dry fire work is helping out. I shot a match yesterday and even though I had some SNAFU's like a dropped magazine which kept me from finishing one stage, blowing past two targets for 4 misses and two procedurals and my gun doing light strikes, most of my hits were in the Alpha area. Although my times were not the best but I have been told that accuracy is better than speed to an extent in production. Got some help on my gun from the awesome guys in my squad. They replaced my trigger spring which solved the light strike problem so the last two stages I could at least not worry about the gun going "Click" when the trigger was pulled. Gonna have to invest in some of those 1/3rd size targets and work on my mental game. I think I got a little rattled after my mess ups. But I learned a lot.

Well, you guys scared me straight. I found this deal instead: http://us-dc2-order.store.yahoo.net/opticsplanet/ymix/MetaController.html?ysco_key_event_id=&ysco_key_store_id=opticsplanet&sectionId=ysco.cart For $12.50 more, I get free shipping, a toll free number and a reputable dealer. I am sure glad I got you guys on my side. Thanks for the advice.