rexican

Is your trigger stock? With a little polishing and the ghost rocket kit, mine feels like a completely different animal. Since I started using a 2011, my G35 has also been relegated to SD and is my backup while hunting (I've even taken pigs with it). I would love the cz 75 platform if it wasn't for my large thumbs: it's just about impossible for me to rack the slide in a hurry. I even put a big honkin' adjustable rear sight on my 38 super tangfolio to have something to grab on to when it jams(I've never had jamming issues with any other cz style except the one I own). It sounds like you really like the shadow, and your budget allows you to keep both. That alone would justify the purchase for me

Bob, you can have first dibbs. I've said it before, but Murphy follows me around like he's my shadow. I've realized recently that I'm a brass hoarder and won't make it throuhg a quarter of the stuff I have accumulated, so I might as well spread the wealth.

Same for me. I just love it when I get my dillon jammed up because there's a half-seated primer in a s&b case. I'm stubborn and refuse to deal with it purely because of those fond memories. I have pounds of that stuff I'll put up in the freebie section eventually (I'll be sure to run a magnet through it first). off topic, but I remember (10 years ago) factory S&B having a very distinct sweet-smelling powder mix, kinda like the smell of Unique.

I don't want to thread jack, but what about the aluminum grip frames? I was going to replace mine as well, but is the investment into one of those worth it if I may have to replace it again down the line?My grip is unmodified, but old and worn enough where I can hang up a mag gripping only my with either my middle or fourth finger. The sticking is worse with my tuned dawson mags, modified para mags are much more forgiving in mine.

Haha, I have an NFA wish list as well, and the proceeds of selling this will either go towards that or a new optic. I'm looking at the tac-30 or falcon menace's 1.5-5x30 (I haven't found any info on it, so forgive me if I start a thread for that one). I never wanted an SBR AR until I got to shoot a 10.5" larue full auto suppressed at their range day. Even after waiting in line in for 2 hours in the TX heat I walked away with a big ol' smile on my face.

$235? I'll definitely look into that as well. I've put a lot of rounds through my 16" pencil barrel, and that sounds like a good option. Those pics of y'alls 18" uppers make me drool as well.

That's just awesome! Thanks iainmcphersn; I have seen the clamp-on gas block, but I'll definitely check out adco and upper receiver prices. It's reassuring (and sad) to hear about NJ; I didn't know if the muzzle brake would make it undesirable for the ban states. I'll probably end up selling it off to someone that can use it more than me. This list of projects of mine seems to never end!

I shoot it occasionally, I'm working on shooting the rifling out of my 20" before I could get to this one, but then I'd want to put a better barrel on that one and shoot it some more. Unfortunately, I can't thread the barrel: It's about 16.25" including the brake. with the brake off it would be under 16" I would have to have the new comp spot welded on, or have it threaded and pinned. Neither of those sound appealing to me (I have been known to gripe about the 14.5" barrels with welded on flash suppressors and I'd feel like a hypocrite every time I looked at it). Chillis... you almost got me. I'll think about ar15.com... and try to remember my username/pass

I have an upper from the clinton ban days: a bushmaster hbar carbine length with a2 carry handle and welded-on ak74 brake. It is a very accurate upper, but I don't seem to shoot it that much. At the end of the day I would rather shoot my 20" with irons, and my 16" lightweight upper (also a2 carry handle) is so light in comparison. Does anybody buy these uppers or should I think about rebarreling it? I know barrels are rather expensive, and I'm stuck with the carry handle if I go that route. I can't change out the gasblock or go to a free floated barrel because of the welded flash, and removing it would make it less than 16" long. I know people have gone through this before, but my internet searches have not yielded anything so far. What do y'all think?

Oh, sorry, Irishlad, I was a bit frazzled last night. I don't know what type of swing I use either I am not an "ambush" shooter, nor do I always swing at the exact same speed as the clay is moving and excecute perfect follow through. I believe I use a swing that follows the clay, but increases in speed until a bit after I squeeze the trigger. Until recently, my shotgunning is something I have not analyzed as much as my pistol shooting (although I will probably set up a video camera next time now that I think about it). I am right handed, and as you said, the right to left shots from the low station require me to make the shot fast; if I don't I end up in an uncomfortable position with my shoulders perpendicular to my waist when I take the shot. I have started to account for the trajectory of the clay, and have varied my footwork to some degree as I go along the stages, but have not altered the starting height of my barrels. I'll try that out next time. Luckily, EkuJustice, I instinctually move the shotgun as I am turning my shoulders while following the bird. While mounting the shotgun, I am almost pushing the barrels to a spot in front of the clay and then pulling back slightly into my shoulder. I noticed last month that I occasionally fired (and broke the clay) withoug pulling the shotgun back into my shoulder (I haven't done it since). If I could get down to practicing only doubles I'd be a very happy man. I've enjoyed the Todd Bender videos, and although my stance is completely opposite from his, everything carries over... But ever since I am never really satisfied with just breaking those clays... All I want are inkballs for Christmas.

Ah, this will be kind of hard to describe. I practice skeet to improve my wingshooting, so I have a rather unorthodox method. I do pretty well with high 8, my unfamiliarity with that stage gives me trouble on the low: The first time I ever shot that stage was just before my first post in this thread. I walk into the box with my intended break point directly in front of me, feet parallel and the butt of my gun a little above my hip, end of barrels at chest height. I don't shoulder my shotgun until the clay enters my peripheral vision (except with station 8). I understand what you mean about sight picture: if I hesitate at all I end up taking the shot well past a comfortable position and my chance of hitting it declines sharply. I'll remember about the hold point next for next time. I don't know how well I answered that; I'll have to review this post tomorrow after I've had a little rest.

modified and ready to test tomorrow. My ammunition choices were limited by the modified colt ace mag the conversion came with: every hollow point tended to nose dive into the feed ramp. If only marvel made a fiber optic conversion for the unit 2. Thanks, Rex

Thanks, I'll do that tonight. I planned on shooting tomorrow anyways, and range time beats waiting for parts. If anybody has a pic I could use for reference I would greatly appreciate it.

Well, their customer service is great: they got back to me within a couple of hours. They have seen it happen before, and said that I can remove the metal from the top part of the mag that is contacting the extractor. (option 1) I asked about purchasing another mag release ($29) and removing metal from it (option 2), and they replied that it could work as well. oops, maybe I should have started this in the general gunsmithing forum. The other option they suggested was removing the ejector completely, but I would rather not: I shoot some .40 first, then switch out the slides at the range.

I got a tactical solutions widebody .22 magazine in today, but the darn thing won't fit in my STI frame. I pulled out the magazine release, and took some pics. The magazine contacts the ejector, and doesn't travel far enough for the mag release to grab the slot milled into the magazine. I've only heard good reports on tacsol mags, and was anxious to try one. I've had a marvel Unit 2 for a couple years and have had some problems with their STI mag: it works fine if I load it to 8 rounds, if I load 10 the first usually is a FTE and the second nosedives into the feed ramp. I thought of ordering another magazine release and filing it until it will catch the mag, but I don't want that $70 mag falling onto the concrete some day. I've put in some calls to their customer service, but being friday, I expect they're swamped. Any thoughts?

Just a little update. I'm doing pretty well with the red label: I'm down to 1 or 2 misses per round (which makes me want to practice even more). I feel a lot smoother, and the doubles don't usually give me trouble. Now my misses are coming from the low house on station 4 or 5, and occasionally that evil station 8. My pride got the better of me and I ended up shooting 8 rounds last Saturday. 2 rounds were a humbling experience: my saiga with its new LM choke. Thanks for the help everyone. Rex

I would have loved to see an F1 car doing doughnuts in front of the capitol... I'm sad I missed that filming.

I picked up a brand new 38 super PT1911 because it was too dang good of a deal to pass up. I noticed it started to shoot left... Apparently they have been shipping them without set screws in their sights... I ordered the screws, waited 2 weeks, all to find out they don't fit. I'm dreading making that next phone call.

That may be because, depending on caliber and size of corn bits, corn cob can be a PITA to get out of rifle shells. I know I'm not the only one who has spent hours picking at .223 cases, trying to dislodge bits of corn that are trapped in the case. Some .25 caliber shells can be just as frustrating. I usually tumble twice: walnut then corn cob (unless I'm cleaning .223), but I have used rice at one time or another. I never really strive for a high mirror shine on my brass. Lots of good threads on the subject, as mentioned above.

Good to know Tangram. I don't know if I'll be able to do much bird hunting this year, and I think shooting clays will be able to fill that void quite nicely. It was too doggone hot to reload in the garage, so I elected to save what's left of my shells and continue practicing how 59Bassman suggested. I'll break down and move my mec inside for a couple days this week.

thanks for clearing that up: I've been mistaken for quite some time now. "Inkball" does conjure up a more appropriate image. I am a member of Best of the West, but haven't made it over to their skeet towers yet. I plan on starting up 3gun soon: I just finished up my saiga 12 conversion yesterday. I forgot to mention that I never start with my shotgun shouldered, but rather wait until I acquire the clay to shoulder my shotgun. It's a carryover from bird hunting and pure stubbornness on my part.

Thanks everyone, and Bassman and Justice were correct: I was shooting over them on 1 and 7. I've appreciated your input and will be putting it to practice this weekend. I've been getting sloppy while quail hunting and relying on my upper body to make those quick shots, just point shooting. I was actually shooting up in Waco, but I've been meaning to check out Capitol City for a while now. I really do have to pay attention to my leading: the only reason I did well on 3-6 was because I was purposefully exaggerating my lead. Funnily, I took an old full-choke 20 gauge Winchester model 12 and was dusting everything that crossed my path.

I have used a little 28 gauge Huglu sxs for everything the last five years, but it has finally started showing some signs of wear. I've decided to relegate it to occasional quail use, but I'm having trouble switching back to a 12 gauge. I've gotten so used to a 6.5lb, fast pointing shotgun, but my old skeet gun is a massive stainless ruger red label 12. My best run was 20 out of 25 with it the other day. I have the most trouble on the first and last positions of skeet, usually the ones going away from me. I need to get some practice in, but any training tips would be appreciated.

Any price range you were looking to stay in?

Someone might have already mentioned it, but the magazines and accessories for the 2011 platform are usually quite a bit more expensive than something that is more common. I switched from g35 to dawson 2011 after funds allowed, but it was a slow process. by the time you add up the cost of a magazine body, grams spring and follower, and dawson base pad for each mag, it's quite an investment. I started off while I was still in school with a G35, some sevigny sights, and a ghost rocket trigger. mags and holster included, all for under $700. I still shoot my glock regularly... and it goes with me a lot of places I would never take my Dawson.