Boats

I think the way for a confident shooter to run the pizza box stage would be 1st tgt Head, 2nd tgt Head, come down to Body on the 2nd target for 2 then back to the first body for 2 more. 4 sight pictures and all body shots doubles. Way I understand the tactical sequence rule is targets equal distance have to be neutralized before engaging the next one. Head hit neutralized . Question is did you think you could draw and hit the first head. Way I shot it was 1st target body one shot 2nd body two shots slow my pace and sharpen my focus up to the 2nd targets head for 1 over to the 1st targets head for one more then down at speed with the last required body shot to finish the 1st target, 5 sight pictures. Did Forrest mention we then had to back up reload behind cover 3 to the body on a 3rd target move lateral to 2nd cover position then 3 to the body 4th target. It was a 12 shot one reload stage. If I was sure of draw and hit the first head it would have been the thing to do. I get pressed buzzer goes of and often my first shot is loose.

Cherryriver, Nice Colt, tell me about the rubber over the Tyler, Is is purpose made or bike inner tube. Looks useful for Retro Revolvers. Boats

I use a short rod that is fixed it won't swivel. Wrap a bronze brush in a patch wet it then roll the patch in JB bore paste. Stick it in and twist a few times. Cleans nice and only has to be wiped dry with something light, I use Balistol. Boats

No matter what the manuals say every gun is different. I recomend making up a dummy round too long. Paint the nose with black marker and seat by trial and error until it jams the barrels leade. Witness marks left on the black marker will tell. Thats your first dim. Next see how long will fit in all your mags. Record that dim too. Then see what will ride up the feed ramp every time no hangs write that one down too. Once I figure all three for Auto pistols intended for matches that jams cost points I back off a bit and use it for my standard Dim. It's critical to set it for each different bullet as the nose shape makes a differnce some times considerable Understand some matches allow "Aliby's So long and jaming the leade may be more accurate at no cost in match scores. Others like the matches guys on this board shoot pay a large price for jams and you don't want any. Bolt rifles loaded single shot I like to push the bullet into the lead everytime. On the Crimp. It's hard to measure Crimp without some sort of jig to hold your mike at the same spot everytime. I use a magnifier to set my crimp. Auto pistols I like a firm bullet, won't move when pressed with my thumb. All the flare rolled out and no more, no deforming of the bullet at all. Best way to set it is again a dummy round and trial and error. Once it's right I measure the distance from the bottom of my press were the case goes in to the top of the die and top of the seating stem. That way I can repeat the setting easy. 4 45 ACP's, two 625 Smith Revolvers two Colt 1911's OAL I use is different each one. Boats

Our Club runs two IDPA matches a month, and one more match that's more basic and not under IDPA rules. It's fun gets lots of turn out and lets you shoot stuff that will not qualify for IDPA. But it's not IDefensivePA Better to let the light calibers and Retro hardware shoot there own match Boats

I used to be picky with primers, then the big shortage hit and the new rule was use what you can get. After a year of that my new opinion is it makes little difference what primer you use. I am shooting some strange combinations sucessfully. Boats

Offhand match rifles have been "bored back" for years to lighten the muzzle while mainting OAL competiton rules. Mostly in 32 caliber lead bullet cartridges like the 32/40. Some with effective barrels as short as 12 inches and barrel leingths as long as 24 inches.They work fine and some think the shorter barrel time is an advantage offhand. Cleaning is an issue. Boats

I like 200's in a 5 inch 1911 were they make PF easy. 4 inch 625 revolver I had to load too hot to get PF with 200's. So use 230's for the wheelgun, the 230's drop in better with Moonclips soo. Felt recoil is a lot more with the revolver shooting 230's than the 1911 Colt using 200 gr SWC's Boats

Thanks Thats just what I wanted to see. Lots of Mountain Bike riders use the GoPro but I sort of figured it was too heavy for hats. Looks like it works fine. It's a tough camera from what I hear Boats

You like your GoPro Hero ? Am thinking about a small video camera and the ruggedness and mount options look good. Is the resoloution good compared to say a Flip ? How did you mount it. Boats

Lead 38's and 45's have been working fine in handguns for over 100 years. It makes no difference to me how much they cost, Lead is clean accurate and gives practically unlimited barrel life. Jacketed adds nothing to the performance. 9mm I use jacketed bullets Boats

Same with mine it's a reliable Auto Pistol, I used to have an old HP now fairly new MK II it's more reliable than my striker action S&W M&P 9L Striker action guns don't hit primers hard. Reloading all my 9mm's no doubt some of the M&P fails to fire are primer seating issues. However exposed hammer will pop most anything. The new HP's have no feeding issues either. Have owned and several Colt and GI 1911's and they have feeding issues at times. The HP never has been fussy about handloads. I never push the guns limits with hot ammo and expect no problems with my forged MK II frame. If you like it shoot it is my opinion. IDPA it's less about the gun more about the shooter. Boats

I have never seen a cracked cast frame. Forged some are pretty old guns and no telling what sort of loads they were subject too over the years. 9MM cast there should be no issues. Boats

Forrest, Guy told me long ago I could improve my match standing by not making mistakes, Shoot the same just don't screw anything up. Rifle sports that's missing a switchback, shooting on the wrong target etc. Sooner or later you need to learn how to hold the rifle but big gains can be made by not shooting bad shots, Action pistols it's important, more rules and shorter time to think about it. IDPA It gave me a fit for a while. I ended up making some flash cards for the key rules that drew procedurals, then added a few critical match strategy items. If you break the differences down, and I only know IDPA and ICORE, there are not that many. Ended up with a dozen or so that rode in my cars cup holder. It helped me tremendously friend of mine has the cards now and same thing, he is making few mistakes in the COF. Pace is another thing. On the one hand ICORE is demanding accuracy wise, however trying to push my IDPA faster I am finding it's still important. Seems to me a key pre match routine is to fix the pace I intend to shoot the array. I still fall back into going too fast with Auto Pistols and taking too long with Revolvers but it's starting to come together. On local matches I hear some good ICORE work is being done at Cashwell Ranch. Carolina cup very good revolver shooters shoot but way the range is spread out unless you are in there squad you are not going to be able to "go to school" on top level shooters. Blackwater last year Ron squaded a bunch of us together however given the shooting house lay out it's still hard to watch the other guys. Important to me since I was at the bottom of the squad skill wise. It's a totally different set of problems compared to other matches. Seems to me Blackwater is perfect for Revolvers lots of cylinder fulls with cover to reload before the next targets. We ought to get a car load of Revolver shooters to drive down to Cashwell. Boats

I use a steel rod for barrel clearing, Mostly a surplus .30 cal machine gun rod with a button jag screwed in the tip. Trick is to bush it out to bore size with masking tape in several places so it won't hit the rifling. Same thing for pistols, GI steel rod. You are better off to wack it hard one time than go easy. Boats

Most leading problems are bullet fit. No matter what if gas gets by the bullets base it's going to lead. Too hot may be producing gas cutting but even mild loads that let gas slip by will cause leading too. I use lead commerical cast bullets exclusivly in 38 spl loaded to IDPA power factor in a Smith 686, Power factor 45 acp loads for 2 625 revolvers and two different 1911's none have any signs of leading. In order to reach the required power factor they are pretty hot loads for a lead bullet. At the high end of preassure and velocity for lead bullets look at my Rifle lead loads. Cast my own plain base lead very soft, 1 part tin to 25 parts pure lead for 32/40 @ 1450 fps& 38/55 @ 1250 fps in single shot match rifles with no leading at all. They are both hot loads for a plain base bullet, only work because the bullets are soft and molds were cut to fit those particular rifles. Lube is real soft I have no need to make it stick while beeing shipped to a dealer. These rifles are extreamly accurate shhot at 200 yuardd around 1 moa. Fit that tight would never cycle in a Auto Pistol However 9mm I use commercial full metal jacketed bullets. I could probably make lead bullets work, but considering the small bore, velocity required to reach power factor, and requirement to feed perfectly it's easier for me to use FMJ's & they don't cost much more if purchased in bulk. If I was going to use Lead in the 9mm would buy the same brand commerical bullets that work well in 38's and 45's NOT advertised as hard or coated or anything else and Clays powder loaded to a moderate velocity. Get to the power factor by using heavy bullets. It would probably work fine as long as the chamber and bullet are tight while still allowing good feeding. Considering the quanity of 9mm's I use in a year it's too much work to cast my own. My opinion only somebody else may see it different Boats

Like Bwana keep my brass separated if possible, if just to keep track of loads for particular guns. Little residue inside the case won't hurt, I empty my Lyman vibrator, brass, media and all into a sifter pan made by Lyman that's on top of a plastic oil change pan, nice fit. But to really get all the crud out use a cake pan and dump the brass back and forth between the sifter over the top of the tumbler a few more times. Few exchanges and most of the loose stuff from inside comes out. Deprime after cleaning so the last little bit under the primer gets knocked out during that process. Moonclips I dump into the tumbler still clipped up, separate the cases from clips after they are clean. I think it cleans faster, larger package in the tumbler and more resistance to the tumbling. Nobody agrees with me though. I shoot some black powder single shot cartridges, cleaning the inside must be done and is a real chore. Boats

Good cautions on scrap alloying. I don't do it much when I do couple of us get together and use a plumbers furnace. Only outside with good ventalation gloves face mask etc. It's a whole different job than casting from pre mix in a small outfit like mine. Boats

Gas furnace Ladle pour is the way to go, if you can cast outside or with good ventilation. I use pre mixed alloy don't let scrap get into my pot. This one was ex School Shop converted to Propane. Thermometer in the pot is real important. Whole thing cost less than a good electric bottom pour. Cheap bottom pour like the Lees are short term investments they rot out quick Look up "the anomonoty man" Bill Ferguson, he sells anything you need. Boats

I have 2 of all my competition guns. If traveling to out of town matches back up is often worth having. This Sat 250 miles from home one of my Blackpowder match rifles broke a firing pin. Went to the back up gun instead of going through a long dissaemby and repair. Revolvers how about one that is the same frame but fits another set of Rules. Shorter barrel you can shoot IDPA even shorter like a 686 2 1/2 inch you can shoot IDPA & Back up Gun Matches. I have 625's 4 & 3 inches and 686 4 inch but can crank in a 19 2 1/2 inch for BUG or if the 686 goes sour. 2 1/2 686 would be better than the 19 Boats

Gun aside, Powder changes lot to lot and will also change considerably ambient temp changes. Different bullets have effect too. some slip down the bore easy others have more resitance & less velocity for the same powder charge. Working on the edge of PF best to Crono the exact load. Boats

If you keep your eyes open on Ebay or at Gun Shows old heavy cast iron presses are not real expensive. Extra press or two set up for dedicated jobs is a handy thing. I keep three set up. Single Stage & Turret Lyman and a 3rd Lyman Tru Line JR Turret that's been modified to accept 7/8 inch dies. It's used for bullet seating only. Also use 4 different powder measures each optimal for one type of powder. None of my outfit except the Harrells measure was real expensive just bought when it became avalable at the right price. Lynwood Harrells measure is worth it's high price. Heavy is best when it comes to pressing. Boats

Good tip GM, Agree with you and the manuals, only way to know for sure is crono yourself. Which I plan to do. Loading on a Lyman turret press priming with a Lee hand tool and measuring with a Harrells same as my other target rifles. Only concession to the AR so far is small base dies. Match is 80 rounds and 100 ought to see me through the day so don't need progressive production. I am thinking 55's and 69's need completely different components and no sense trying to compromise. Am working on positions and the rapid fire cadence now at 200 yards, 55's are fine for this distance. Be a while before I get to full over the course distance & 69 gr MK's. Probably not going to shoot it in matches until next year, Full slate already with Silhouette this season. On your drop tube. My 38/55 match rifle will hold a whole lot more 2 F Black powder drop tubed. Amazing how much difference it makes Boats

I mostly de-cap rifle cartridges on a universal de-capping die and have taken the decaping pin out of my dies. I decap from the range then clean the cases before loading. I use a separate Lyman 'M" die to set the case neck from the inside. The "m's" neck sizer is cut specifically for one particular bullet and desired neck pull and have several for different bullet sizes. Other guys I know use the same routine and dedicated neck die that sizes from the outside of the case. The M or outside neck sizer dies are not case specific. Using those methods and if full length sizing is not required can load on the same dies 45/70 45/90 45/110 or 30/30 .308 .30 Government 30/1906, all this if you don't full length size. Sometimes you need to full length size and have a full die set in all my rifle calibers even though the sizer does not get much use. Easier answer is progressives are great for long runs of pistol calibers. No better way to load 9 mm or 45 acp. For switching calibers in rifle loads particularly if short runs of cartridges Turret press works best. I run two Lyman's side by side. One is a 6 hole Turret other is single hole and mostly kept set up with the decapping die. I make runs of 200 9mm or 45acp on the Turret starting with clean brass. I think 200 rounds is the limit of there usefullness for high volume loading, anything more go progressive Boats

I missed this thread and the good replys., Put the AR aside while getting components and parts together. Now ready to get started. Just for starters and function etc bought a couple of boxes of Sierra 55 gr FMJBT's and a jug of H 335. Also bought set of RCBS small base dies. Selected H335 mostly because of it's measuring ablity. Will use some of your loads to work up good offhand 200 yard zeros. It's going to take me a while to learn to hold this rifle offhand, It's a lot different than my Silouette or Single shot match rifles. Will work on the load and function deveolpment same time as positon building. Take it out to 300 will crank in the 69 gr MK's and probably the Varget. Although Hodgen publishes some loads for H335 and 69 gr bullets. May try H335 with the heavier bullet too. 300 will go prone and see what it's capable of. By then hope to have the trigger working good, it's needs a lot of work. Boats