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Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

T Bacus

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Posts posted by T Bacus

  1. I'm not wanting to sound harsh here but I really believe excessive penalties for not shooting targets are nothing more than a fix for poor course design. If I as a stage designer come up with a stage that is so difficult that not shooting a target can result in a better score than shooting it, the competitors are not the problem.

    I think there is also a common issue that many stage designers have in that they feel they must somehow design stages that will 'test' the top shooters. This mindset leads to stages that punish average shooters. The problem is you can't test the top shooters, they can only test themselves. They have the mental discipline to perform at or close to the top of their ability regardless of the stage difficulty. No problem for the best, punishing for the rest. If anything, the thing that will most often give a great shooter trouble is an easy, wide open stage. A stage that is so easy they don't put much mental prep into shooting it, or has some speed traps that 'seduce' them into trying to go faster than they can. A shooter walking away from a stage thinking, "man, I screwed that one up big time" is not a problem, walking away thinking, "I was screwed before I even pulled the trigger" is.

    Way back in the day when I ran a lot of matches my goal in course design was always, 'is the C class shooter going to walk away from this match and say that he had fun'? If the answer was yes, then I felt I had done a good job. This does not mean that that match couldn't be challenging, just that the challenges have to be kept in balance. Keep the shots doable. Keep the targets past 200 yards at least 4moa, 6 would be better. A 3moa target at 300 yards is still no problem for the pros, but the average weekend shooter might as well just skip it and take the 30 second penalty. No matter what targets you put down range the best shooters are going to hit them faster, the only real issue is how hard do you want to make it for everyone else?

    Lets use this example. We have a stage that has eight long range rifle targets at the end of it, between 150 and 350 yards. Our shooters are two top competitors and an average shooter. If the targets down range are all small, say 4moa or less. The two pros are not going to think about each other very much, it's focusing on the shots and applying the fundamentals that is important. The average shooter will not make all of the shots and pick up a bunch of penalties. Now make the targets huge, lets say 10moa. Now the two pros have a problem. They both know the other is most likely going to shoot the plates eight for eight, and it's not the fundamentals that are most important, it's how fast you can apply them. Each knows he HAS to be fast to win. So the bigger targets are going to put more mental pressure on the pros and the average shooter will still finish third, but at least he will have had a lot more fun doing it.

    The question comes down to, who are you designing the match for? The 25 or so competitors who have a chance at winning, or the other 200 who are doing it just for fun?

    My 2 cents.

  2. I was just at the Roulette Tactical web store and they have posted that they are no longer taking orders as of April 1st. They seem to have a pretty steep discount on their remaining stock of extra capacity end caps. I ordered a green +2 for the VMT and it came to $21 with shipping. If you need an end cap, now would seem to be a good time to order it.

  3. It seems that I get asked this question a lot by new 3 gun shotgunners, and I was asked it recently so I figured maybe its worth sharing. Too many people ask "whats best" or "what do you use" or "what should I use",........everybody wants answers without effort, well sorry there really is no "BEST", you can do what other people tell you, or use what other people tell you but wouldn't it be BEST for you to KNOW!!! Especially to know what works BEST in your gun with your loads.

    Well here is how I go about finding out what works BEST in my guns............

    I go and shoot different targets at different distances to ensure what each choke and load will do. Fullsize poppers set a bit heavy, heavy plates, and small plates. As well as steel with close set and overlapping no shoot targets, then I set out a full size sheet from a newspaper and shoot it at different distances to see if there are any big areas of no pellets hitting the paper. 10,15,20,25,30,35yds I then write down what distances stuff works at, as an example, LtMod: less than 1" spread per yard, poppers to 30yds, clays to 40yds. Cyl: greater than 1" spread per yard, poppers to 15yds clays to 20yds, etc. The spread is only the effective spread not counting the stragglers on the ends that won't knock over a steel plate, generally you need 4 or more pellets on a plate to take it over depending on pellets size and distance. So I disregard pattern that has less than 4 pellets per 4"x4" area.

    Or not do any of that, stick a LM in the gun, and call it good enough.

  4. You only need two chokes. Light Modified is the general go-to choke for most stages. It reliably knocks down hard set plates, puts most of your pattern on spinners, works well with slugs and is open enough that flying targets are easy to hit. The only time I don't use LM is on a stage that is all clay targets. For that I use a Cylinder Bore choke.

    My 2 cents

  5. The shotgun is were you will suffer most if you don't get a reliable gun. If you are on a budget buy a 26" Versamax Sportsman and a 10rd extension. This will give you an extremely reliable gun to start with and can be modified to you desires as you progress. The 26" Versa can be found online for under $800.

  6. A new base, LaRue, ADM or what ever, is not the solution because the base attaching to the gun is not the problem.

    The problem with the Prismatic is how the spacer locks between the mount and scope body. Rather than being tapered like an ACOG mount, or the CQ/T mount, the lugs on the Prismatic spacer are square shouldered and will not stay aligned when put together between the base and scope. I demonstrated this to someone by putting their Prismatic on their gun and giving the scope a good twist to the left, then the reticle was aligned to the left edge of the rail at the front of the gun. A good twist on the scope to the right brought the alignment all of the way to the right side of the rail. It doesn't matter how hard you tighten the screws, you cannot adjust out the poor fit of the spacer between the scope and base.

    I have tried to correct this in two ways. The first attempt was to take the spacer and add marine epoxy to the sides of the lugs and then put the mount together. The epoxy fills the gaps and when dry makes for a solid non-moving assembly. On the second scope I took the spacer and used a hammer and punch to swage the sides of the lugs so that they would just not fit in their respective slots, then screwed the mount together and used the leverage of the screws being tightened to pull the whole thing together.

    I like the second method better but one must be careful to not swage too much martial and risk stripping the screw hole in the scope by putting to much pressure on them.

  7. Pictures I took at SHOT...

    4qap.jpg

    0oj4.jpg

    thk8.jpg

    Remington Rep said the gun comes with three different height rear sights to adjust for impact and a +2 end cap so the gun can be set up as 8+1 or 10+1.

    A custom shop can set a gun up better but I think a lot of shooters are going to be happy with this gun out of the box.

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