Anon

Define "long range", as it pertains to what you are looking for. And, is speed of follow-up shots a requirement for you? Trying to get a sense of whether you are looking for sniper, varmit, long-range-match, hunting, or practical rifle skills.

I believe it's worth $120. (By the time the bidding stops, you'll end up knowing the real value!)

A woman was raped, and now she has been forced to kill someone. This is not the best "What I Like" topic. Unless we're talking about a bad-guy being permanently removed from above-ground activities. I like that.

Thanks. I didn't know there were so many options. I'll have to scour the tables at the next gun show.

This will be even more true when we aren't allowed to own certain guns and accessories anymore. I've gone to a couple of SASS events, looks like fun to me. A little over-board on the clothing, acting, but that's part of the fun for most people. SASS offers escapism. Seems to be a vaction from real-life every time you go to a meet. People like vacations.

Rotary, or vibratory?

Looking for pre-ban magazines, and I want to know my options. Do I have to get EAA mags, or are there other choices? EDITED TO ADD: 9mm small-frame.

I saw Peter Frampton a few years back. He was an opening act at a show. I was BLOWN AWAY. He is fantastic (still).

http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=73069 Looks like an Open ($1175), Limited ($875), and a stock 9mm Witness ($275, not $750). (you can't have it though.... I have dibs!)

Unfortunately, no good options are out there anymore. (EDITED TO ADD: I'm wrong, see the posts below) You can get one that is great for airsoft (audio) http://www.cedhk.com/show.php/Object916 , but you can't use it for real guns. You can get one good for real guns, but you'll have to use a stop-plate input, and an external switch. The nice CED-7000 does not have a stop-plate input. In airsoft competitions, stop-plates are always used. If you can find an old CED4000 (you can't have mine!), you can have the best of all features: stop-plate input and adjustable audio sensitivity (works with airsoft, or major ammo).

MemphisMechanic, You sound like me: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=71680 You can save some $ and get the same results using white vinegar, and a touch of dishwashing liquid. I will get around to buying a new tumbler one of these days, but for now, this works fine.

If there is a round left in the mag, it doesn't seem like the follower could be lifting up on the slide-lock. Does this happen with all magazines? Do you have some dummy-rounds you can use to try to duplicate and examine the problem? If not, when it happens in live fire, take the time to thoughroughly examine the symptoms. How high is the silde-lock into the notch? Did you bump the slide-lock up? Do you ever put any pressure on the slide-lock, and maybe the spring in the mag isn't strong enough to get that last round up in time?

Hmmmmm.... I'm in Upstate NY, and I bought for $2.24/gal this morning....http://www.syracusegasprices.com/

DIRTY CHAMBER.... ^^^ ^^^^ Now there's a guy who should know a thing or two about this subject!

What did you have in mind?

I've been reloading for about 20 years. I've heard (and read) people talk about "dirty" powders, or "dirty" loads. I've never actually known what they meant. What is "dirty"? I know it has nothing to do with dirt. What are the symptoms of a "dirty" powder? How would I know whether I'm shooting "clean" or "dirty"? Maybe I don't even want to know, since I might find out that I'm supposed to be bothered by something that has never bothered me before!

I agree. Looking at the interim results doesn't tell the correct story, at all. You have to drill into the individual, and see which stage results have been posted. You'll only be able to compare stage-for-stage, within a division. Good luck with that, since the site doesn't provide an easy way to compare results (until they're final). The shooters have not shot the same stages, and not all stages in all divisions are final. About the only overall scores you can count on for accuracy are the DQ's.

Nice. Looks much better than things on youtube. Really fun to watch. Makes me want to get out and shoot!

There is live chat and video here: http://snsproductions.net/webcast.html Info here: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=72051

Green gas IS propane (with a little silicone oil mixed in). Look in my gun-case above. I have a propane adapter ($18), and put a drop of silicone in it, every few mag fills. Pays for itself the very first time you use it. Propane is $3, and you buy it locally.

Also, search this forum for every airsoft post from Rocket35, such as: http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=58350 http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=55678 http://www.brianenos.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=45153 BTW, Just because I have the KJW Para-clone, doesn't mean I recommend it. It is a discontinued model, and the availability of mags is in doubt. For the cheapest (with reasonable quality) get a WE "Hi Capa". For a better gun, with MUCH more support in the aftermarket, spend the extra for a Tokyo Mauri . I'm not convinced that airsoft is better than quality dry-firing, but it sure is more fun! The time you spend reloading/gassing mags, is time you could spend dry-firing, or thinking. Still, I have this story..... I just started USPSA shooting (4 club matches, so far). My placing in the matches, and my scores in the classifiers would show me to be a high D/low-C shooter (though I'm not yet classified). This month, I practiced the classifier that would be used at the club match. Overall at the match, I came in mid-pack. But on the classifier stage, I came in third overall (shooting full power ball out of a SS 1911)(against veteran Open shooters). According to www.classifiercalc.com, my classifier score put me as a solid B shooter. I believe the airsoft training is what made the difference. As we went to the classifier stage, many shooters siad "ugh, classifier". I was calm, and confident, as I had already shot this stage 100+ times at home (for less than the cost of a gallon of gas!). I'm focusing on classifiers now, but I'm confident that the airsoft and dry-fire will make me a better overall shooter. Did I mention it's fun? Besides, you can get your buddies to join you in airsoft fun, you can't get them to come over and dry-fire with you!

Do you care if the frame is a single-stack, or double-stack? I shoot a single-stack in Limited10. For airsoft, I have one of these: http://www.import-action.com/gbb603.html I picked it bnecause it's full-metal, and inexpensive. It's not the greatest choice, but it does the job. You will get sick of constantly reloading a single-stack airsoft. Practicing reloads (especially reloading on the move) is not practical with airsoft. The mags are different enough, and they are fragile, so you need some sort of padded drop-box. You can reload them quickly in practice, but you're better off with dry-fire. If you get one with a plastic slide, get an adapter to use cheap duster-gas (Sam's Club). If metal-slde, get a propane adapter. Here's some pics of my setup: There's a great website for practical airsoft shooters. http://www.aaps-federation.org/ Unfortunately, the site forum is down right now (technical problems over the weekend). They have "Postal Matches" that you can set up in a one-car garage (or outside). You shoot for hit-factor against the other shooters on the website. Here's a pic of this month's setup, in my garage ( i have a small garage, with a lot of junk in it, so it's a tight-squeeze):

Too late! Already ordered. Primers/powder, I'll probably buy locally. I haven't even started the process of figuring out what powder to buy. I plan to load minor and major (5" XD). I'd really like to have one powder for each load.

I'll update this first post, as I buy the supplies I'll need I already have a Dillon RL550B. I want to load .40 S&W, and I figure reloading is cheaper than buying loaded, right? Reloading equipment: (Dillon, ordered through benos.com) $21.95 14416 Seating Die - 40 S&W/10mm $40.95 20179 RL 550B Caliber Conv: 40 S&W/10mm $19.95 14435 Crimp Die - 40 S&W/10mm $7.99 Shipping ( http://egw-guns.com/store/index.php?main_p...28be6dd270d06b3 ) $22.00 Undersize Reloading Die $7.00 Shipping Bullets (www.missouribullet.com) $64.00 1,000 - 180 Grain TCFP $9.85 Shipping Brass $70.00 Range brass from private seller (2,000+) Still needed: Powder Primers I don't really have a question here, I'm just cataloging the things I used to get up and running with a new caliber.

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