Z32MadMan

How have you like the heavier hammer spring on your practice gun Ben? After I heard you talk about it here I decided to put the stock 21# hammer spring back in my Sig for a while. It took a day or so but I got used to it again pretty quickly. I do think it's a bit better for practicing trigger control.

I'm running a standard P226R in Production. Same gun but without the cocking serrations up front and the fiber optic sights. The gun has been 100% reliable for me and I never feel like it's holding me back. If you ever want some trigger work, ship your Sig off to Gray Guns Inc. They are the tops. Other than that, just know that the Blackwater isn't production legal with the magwell grips on there. So you'll need to pic up some standard black P226 grips.

I don't think the distributers would take the time and go through the hassle to do that right now. Hell, right now they have a product which sells out as soon as they get it, at inflated prices. What is that advantage for them? Plus I'm sure the primer supply isn't even close to being constant enough for them to be able to ship at regular intervals. Now when this crisis/shortage thing is over and things are back to normal, this system may increase their sales a bit. Just my thoughts. It sure would be nice to get primers once a month though.... Cheers!

Is it worth getting one of these dies from the start? I'm just getting a 550 and I'm wondering if I should just start reloading with a EGW/U die? Or should I start off with the Dillon die and see if I start having problems? I'm only loading 9mm and I'm using moly bullets.

Has anyone tried tumbling in a mixture of walnut and corn cob? Maybe two parts corn one part walnut? I'm wondering if you could get the best of both at the same time.

Are Dillon's tumblers covered by their lifetime warranty?

Does anyone know the max load for a moly 147gr?

Is it worth spending over twice as much for a CV-750 when you can get a Lyman 1200 for $55? I'm looking for a first tumbler and I go through about 200rds of 9mm a week.

Is there an accurate way to test exactly how long of an OAL it takes to hit the rifling of a particular pistol? Also, this is a reloading newb question, but how does the profile of the bullet affect OAL? For instace if you have a round nose bullet and a flatter nose, will setting them to the same OAL affect distance to rifling or bullet depth in the case ect?

Cabelas has Magtec SPP in stock

Ugh... Midway had Federal SPPs in stock for 8 minutes today... Apparently I was a minute late.

What is your Black bullet load? OAL? I'm finally getting into reloading and I'm looking at running BBI 147's as well.

I'm new to reloading and I'm looking to buy my first reloading press in December-ish. I'm sick of not having a reliable source of ammo so I figure now is the time to get into reloading. I'm pretty set on buying one of BE's 550B kits. I'm pretty excited for that, but I won't have money for several more months. So I thought I would start buying supplies now, so I don't have to worry about not having primers ect when I get my press. Is there a reliable place to backorder primers? What do you think the best route would be for me to have primers in the next 3 months? Also can I get some confirmation on supplies to buy? I'm going to be shooting black moly bullets (not decided yet on 125gr, 130gr, or 147gr for my Sig P226), so would Solo 1000 be a good poweder for running moly bullets for 9mm minor? I was thinking about putting in orders for -3000-3500 9mm moly bullets (anyone have a preference between Black Bullets International and Precision Bullets? the first seems to be a bit cheaper) -4lbs of Solo 1000 -5000 small non-magnum pistol primers (And from what I can tell CCI, Federal, and Wolf are all good choices?) I would really appreciate any comments or advice! Thanks

The insomnia is really getting things done tonight Version 2.0 1) Standby! 2) Beep! Sharp eye focus on the point on the target you want to hit 3) Gun is coming into sight, steering for that point in the A zone, sharp target focus 4) Gun is on target, eye focus snaps to front sight,target fuzzy, start calling shot.. 5) Front sight lifts, the shot is called, eyes track the sight through recoil 6) Front sight settles back on target, sharp front sight focus ready to call shot, target fuzzy 7) Front sight lifts again, the shot is called, eyes track the sight through recoil 8) Gun settles back on target 9) Eyes snap to next target, with a sharp target focus on a point in the A zone 10) Gun starts moving, still in sharp target focus 11) Gun getting close, still in sharp target focus 12) Gun is now on target, snap to sharp front sight focus, target is fuzzy, start calling shot 13) Front sight lifts, the shot is called, eyes track the sight through recoil 14) Front sight settles on target, sharp front sight focus, target fuzzy, ready to call final shot 15) Front sight lifts, the shot is called, eyes track front sight through recoil

I'll toss in another target and give each one two shots. I think it could help people to really understand what they need to "see". But the toilet stays!

I got a bit bored tonight and needed a break from what I was doing. So I took out the Nikon to try to show the process. I don't think I have seen anything like this on here before. 1) Drawing, sharp target focus and the point I want to hit. 2) Gun starts coming into view and I'm steering it on to the A zone 3) Gun is now on target, snap to a sharp front sight focus see everything, fuzzy target, "looks right, maybe a touch high" 4) Shot breaks, sights lift in recoil, still focusing on the front sight, tracking it in recoil 5) Gun recovers back on fuzzy target, still have front sight focus ready for the second shot 6) Eyes snap to the next target with a sharp target focus, the spot on the wall 7) Still looking at the target, the gun is coming on to the target 8) Gun is on target, eyes snap to the front sight, target is fuzzy, ready to call the shot "a bit low and left" 9) Shot breaks, sights lift in recoil, still focusing on the front sight, tracking it in recoil

I have to thank everyone who posted again. This is what I have been missing in my shooting... Now that I know what I need to be doing, it is actually coming very quickly and rather easily. My accuracy has been off and now I know why. Target focus, gun swoops in, just as gun is stopping eyes are snapping to the sight... and now I am getting so much more feedback! There is so much detail! "the front sight was a hair higher just as the shot broke", "there was a bit more light on the right side." I think this is going to take my shot calling from "good/bad" to "on the left alpha charlie line a bit high." Which is really what I needed. I have only been shooting USPSA for about a year, and believe it or not I was working on seeing the sights lift about 6 months ago. And come to think of it since then it has been target focus with blurry sights. Apparently it slipped from my mind.. I'm really excited to work on this now. I always enjoy having a problem and knowing the solution. Cheers!

Thanks for the post Brian. I understand the continuum of required sight picture, ranging from muzzle on target to crystal clear front sight. My issue is particularly with the difficult "100% sight picture needed" type of shots. I was using a target focus while concentrating my mind on the slightly fuzzy sights instead of focusing my eyes directly on the front sight. I was doing this because once I focus on the front sight the target image doubles. But as Memphis described, if you bring the sights to the target and THEN transition to a sharp sight focus the sights are already where they need to be on taget. And this makes perfect sense to me. So now it's time to practice it into being... Thanks Again!

That's what I was looking for, and also what I have been neglecting this entire time. I have been concentrating on the front sight's relationship to the target, not switching from target to sight focus. Time for some more dryfire... Thanks!

Being on this forum I have begun to understand the importance of seeing. So I ask you, while shooting what do you see EXACTLY? I'm refering to the relationship between the front sight, rear sight, and the target. Now consider that there are two "types" of eye focus. Call 1) clarity focus: Clarity focus would be you eyes ability to bring objects into clear focus at different distances. ( For instance if you hold you thumb in front of you and bring it into clear focus, then while still looking at your thumb you bring the wall into focus and now your thumb is blurry. Call 2) Point Focus: This is the where your two eye come together to meet. So if you hold your thumb up and point focus on it, you will see a double image of the picture on the wall. If you point focus on the wall, you will see a double image of your thumb. Okay so how are you focusing on the target, front and rear sight? You can only point focus one thing at a time. So when your shooting, what are you seeing? A ) one target, with two guns (one right in front of you dominant eye and another floating next to it that you don't pay much attention to) B ) one front sight, with two targets and two rear sights I'm guessing it's A, which is what I do. Because if you point focus on the front sight it gets pretty confusing with two rear sights very close together, not to mention a double image of the target. Now where is your clarity focus? Mine has always been on the target, with blurry sights. Because if I focus clearly on the front sight then my point focus follows and the target image doubles. In an ideal world I would say the best situation would be to have a point focus on the target, a dominant eye clarity focus on the front sight (so it's nice and clear), and a nondominant eye clarity focus on the target. So when you mind overlaps the two you have a clear target and a clear front sight. It's easy having clarity focus on the front sight when shooting with one eye open. But open the other and it seems to go out the window. Usually I don't have an issue seeing both the target and front sight decently well. But I was at a match this weekend that involved shooting targets at 50 yards (I was "that guy" shooting all pistol at a 3 gun match haha). Now at 50 yards you either have a clear target and an very blurry front sight, or a clear front sight and a target that you can barely outline. So I ask you all: What do you see? What is in clear focus? What is blurry? What do you see a double image of?

I just load my magazines up with fired casings. That way I don't have to buy a bunch of snapcaps or dumb rounds. Helps me to find how much force I need to seat a full magazine.

Also I found that my pouches were holding on to my mags a bit too tightly. And this was making it overly difficult getting them out of the pouch easily. So loosening those really helped my left side to relax during reloads. Really helped smooth things out. Quick question to: What are decent draw, reload, and draw fire reload fire times for production? In dryfire good times for me are: Draw: 0.8 sec Reload: 0.9 sec Draw, 1 round, reload, 1 round: 1.8 sec These are dryfire with a target at 5-7 yards calling A's.

Okay, back in action. Thanks for all of the help everyone! Honestly I was freaking out. I have always had pretty decent reloads, and suddenly there were gone. I was making smooth easy dryfire reloads at about 0.9 sec from timer to getting the shot off. Then all of a sudden that went to 2 seconds because it was like trying to park a semi truck in a toilet paper roll. But things are back to a fairly consistent 0.9 sec. I think what really messed me up was the airsoft routine I started. I just got into airsoft training about a month ago, and I think reloading with that threw my mag to magwell angles off. Airsoft training is great btw, I think it's really going to help me improve. But now I know to just leave the reloads for the real steel. I honestly tried everything that was posted on this thread and probably spent about 10hrs of dryfiring trying to figure out what the F was wrong. And honestly it did absolutely nothing, other than making me really upset. So after giving up for a few days it started coming back, and now I'm feeling good again. I guess I justed needed to let it go and get it out of my system. And I'm glad it's back because my favorite match is tomorrow. It actually got so bad at one point I was considering running minor limited with my P226 Anyway thanks again!

I haven't taken the time to read this thread, so hopefully this isn't a repost.

I really need some wisdom and deep words on reloads... I've been noticing during matches the magazine going in will snag a bit. My reloads have lost their smoothness and it's costing me. I've noticed this and I'm putting extra emphasis on my reloads during dryfire. But I can't seem to make my reloads work there either... I know I need to go back to the basics but I can't seem to make it happen at the moment. Any tips, things to focus on, random thoughts about smoothing out my reloads and making them reliable and consistent? I'm playing in Production.