jonny4523

So I got my ELS belt all setup last night. I love the modularity of the system and being able to quickly customize it for each stage. But what is everyone's secret to putting this thing on? I already removed the Safariland keeper and replaced it with one of my CR Speed keepers. That alone was a huge improvement. But whenever I try to put the belt on, I'm almost guaranteed to have the end of the belt stop so that the little metal poles are in between holes. And of course, since it's not a normal belt, simply cinching it tighter isn't an option. Has anyone learned a trick to making this process easier yet?

I'm trying to get creative in a way to mount the guns. I'll post what I come up with. But I'm also trying to keep it modular. The easy way to put racks on the sides, but I don't like the idea of flagging everyone walking behind the cart.

Has anyone tried one of these yet? Seems ideal for our sport. Folds up nice and flat with a lot of cargo room. I bought one but haven't figured out how I want to rig it up yet. http://www.samsclub.com/sams/folding-wagon/prod3080161.ip?navAction=

Does it have to be adjustable? If you want a no-bs reliable gas block, I'd go with the BCM gas blocks. Not adjustable, but the ID is ground to size and every one that I've ever put on is a nice tight fit. Quality is top notch.

Is your barrel a carbine length or mid length? Brand of your BCG? (is the gas key both properly torqed AND staked)? Do you have any other buffers that you can play with? Even with my rifle length gas system, BCM FA carrier, rifle buffer, and a Geissele SD-3G trigger, I can't outrun the system. Something sounds wrong. Brand and type of the glass block you're using? Any excess carbon build up around the gas block? is this your first build? Are you positive you got the gas block properly lined up and didn't just throw it back against the gas block diameter shoulder? Lots of questions, but it sounds to me like you're under gassed for your system.

Did your 930 come with any shims to adjust drop and cast? I just got a Beretta 1301. Grouped slugs very well at 50 yards but they were all high. My natural point of aim with the stock shims caused my front bead to appear to 'sit' on top of my mid bead. I had to force myself to line them up. My 1301 came with different shims. I switched out the factory 60mm drop shim with a 65mm drop shim (allowing the tip of the shogun to pivot down more until the buttstock hit my cheek). Now my natural point of aim automatically brings the mid bead and front bead into alignment. Not saying this is definitely your issue. But if your groups are consistent, just not in the center, then it might be a start.

I just had the same thing happen to me while practicing my reloads. When I tried to get the small screw back into the bolt release, the threads wouldn't catch so I picked up a longer version of the M3X6 screw at Home Depot and now it holds. I just went and put some blue loctite on mine. It didn't take much at all to get the screw out though. Hopefully that's all it'll need.

What do you mean you lost it? It fell off? Broke? Screw backed out? Beretta Customer Service 1-800-929-2901

Took the 1301 out today. Very happy with the initial run. Here are some notes for those interested: I have a 24" barrel. First shots were with a Carlson IC extended choke. I'm using a Briley +6 mag extension. Tube runs 2" longer than end of extended choke tube. I was able to get the 11 rounds in, but the 11th just barely fit. No modification needed to the spring. Shooting standing, unsupported with Carlson IC tube and Remington low recoil slugs, I shot a 4-5" group at 50 yards. It shot high for me though, so I might have to play with the spacers on the stock.

Got my 1301 tonight. Very light. Very well balanced. I can't wait to get this to the range.

Really, I had my c-rums modified 1301 sighted in with LM and slugs. I'm pretty sure I've shot slugs through a mod or maybe even IM. I was surprised to see that too. But it was there. Might be a safety factor just to cover their butt?

I just bought one yesterday from here: https://www.woodburyoutfitters.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=301941 At the moment, it says out of stock. But I called them before I ordered and I'm pretty sure the lady told me that had more than 1. It might be worth a phone call.

According to the Carlson website (under Optima HP, in the description for the waterfowl choke tube set), they mention no shooting slugs through any choke tighter than IC.

On my other Berettas (AL391 & A400), there is a magazine disconnect on the left side of the receiver that allows you to do this. The 1301 does not have the disconnect. So it may not be able to do this. You can go empty chamber with full mag, but not lock.

Ah, I just saw that in our INMG rules. Thanks for the heads up.

Just found and ordered one in 24". I already of a Briley +6 extension from my A400. Looking at Briley extended ported chokes. I really like how they're labeled. (http://www.briley.com/BerettaHPSpectrumPortedChoke.aspx). Which combination of chokes have you found work for most stages? (skeet, mod, full, etc)

I'm about sold on this shotgun. But still can't decide between 21" vs 24". Thinking of 24" just because "why not"? I'm seeing several 21" in stock at different places. But does anyone know where I can find a 24" in stock?

I've skimmed through this some and didn't see it mentioned. So I apologize if it has already been addressed. But how long of an extension can you go on both the 21" and 24" before it becomes a problem shooting with a cylinder or skeet choke? Anyone ever accidently get a pattern wide enough to nick an extension tube? I've seen some pretty long ones out there.

They are cheaper from MidSouth. http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=001532267B Although out at the moment, they'll be back sure I'm soon. If they are not in stock, the price can be as low as they want to publish. They have had that price for months I just bought a case a week or two ago. I've bought 2 or 3 from them since probably July. So it's not just an advertised gimmick price. Also, they're one of the few I've found that will let you backorder.

They are cheaper from MidSouth. http://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=001532267B Although out at the moment, they'll be back sure I'm soon.

SPs are supposed to be really nice for varmint hunting. I buy their FMJs in bulk and easily take them to 300 yards. Also, I've bought 3 x 6000 rd cases in the last 4 months. So they are definitely available. I've been finding them for around $.09/rd shipped.

I've been buying the bulk Hornady 55s. I'm very happy with the accuracy I'm getting with them, especially out of my Noveske 10.5" and Whiteoak 20" barrels.

I got a refund from them for 2 cases about a week or two ago. They send me pre-paid labels to send my current stock back. I asked them about the issue. They said their die is being repaired and it would be January before they were back in production of their .22s.

I got ya. After seeing what happened with this 1:7, I didn't venture to try it in another rifle in fear of losing another comp. The batch of MG I was shooting that day was from the summer of 2012. I didn't have any issues. If I were you though, I'd keep them sealed, get in contact with MG, and get on the replacement list.

I think we're all missing the point here. There seems to be a manufacturing issue with these. I'm not sure how the twist rate comment got introduced. You're not immune. If I can shoot 55s through 1:7 barrels from 10.5" to 20 ", and 1:8 would obviously be fine. I shot this same load recently (with a batch of MG55s from Summer 2012 production) and shot the best score of my life at a highpower match. Not a single round key-holed. It's not a twist rate issue.