20nickels

Lookon' good! Tkae your time and figure out the in's n outs of the press before you through a case feeder into the mix. You may find ya don't need it.

Also, there is a small knurled hand screw that anchors the bottom of the powder measure linkage. This comes loose . Put a machine screw in the other side (10-32, I think) to bottom it out and lock it in place.

Did you look anything like this? H'day provided me with a small shim that goes on top of the LNL bushing's O-ring. This tighten's up your powder measures bushing just enough that it doesn't come loose although it's never happened to me. Hope that makes sense.

This works great; lightly soak middle of large towel with mineral spirits, add loaded rds to the towel and seesaw back& forth like cleaning a bowling ball for about a minute or two. Completely clean, shiny, like new ammo!

I don't think using the dippers means throwing scales, manuals and common sense out the window. After all they work on the same volume measuring principle as most powder measures, they are just not adjustable. They are only $10 and the chart comes in handy now and again for other stuff. I use them with a hand press occaisionally for making small batches.

It would be nice to see Randy posting again if his time is freeing up. Pics of his work are nice eyecandy.

Also the X-frame Hogue grips with the big comfy backstrap will fit that gun. $35 from S&W. happy hunting.

Incidently, what did the H'day lever rev 140's chrono out at. My wife and her friend shot them out of the SP101 and neither complained of recoil. Hornaday must use a soft primer. My tuned 625 ignites their ammo reliably.

All Fixed, tks I tried switching the screws 1st and that didn't work so I ground it down a couple thousandths and beveled it in a drill press till the crane swung freely. I'm not sure it's the correct screw but it works.

I have a S&W M 66-1 and the lower right sideplate screw that holds the cylinder in place has issues. When screwed down tight it impedes the movement of the cylinder swing out, but when left loose it opperates normally. Is it too long? Grind it down till it works or just order a replacement screw. Where would I get these?

Right now I clean between each stage because I am still dialing in my boolit sizer that gets sticky lube everywhere and gums up the chambers. +1 on the 230 with Clays, no brushing required till you decide to clean.

Oooh. Just thought of this, A ten shooter reamed to .22 WMR. That would be a hoot.

Revopop, I've seen people go the other way round about it and get a K or J frame in .22lr and then get a .22mag cylinder fitted. Yes the 22mag bullet is slightly larger but these frames should easily handle the increased pressure.

Mike, you weren't joking about some of the old hens at the S&W forum. I tried helping somebody by suggesting that some 625s were notorious for tight chambers (mine included) and the clucking ensued. Lots of good people there if you wade through the feathers.

For the loaded rds, you may be able to take a Lee FCD, pull the guts out of it and push the loaded rds all the way through the die so they come out the top for a full re-size. Use your Lee boolit sizer base to push them through. Should swage everything down to size. Like this; good luck!

I would suggest the .452 die. Oversize is better than undersize, to a point of course, but that's what my S&W eats. If these are already commercially lubed boolits then you might get away with putting ta bunch of them in a ziplock bag and spraying them with red can Hornaday One Shot, close bag and shake around to coat well. Then run through Lee sizer. Using Alox will present other sticky problems.

There are many people with some serious flooding issues; I was lucky with only three inches of water in the basement. Thanks for the concern, it is much appreciated. Scott That sucks. I grew up in a small town notorious for flooding every 10 yrs. Nobody ever confiscated our guns though.

The only thing I've heard of modding on the ratchets would be smoothing up where the hand rides back over the teeth on the trigger return. Something that although it seems easy, I've been too skeered to mess with. I would be interested to know how many of you guys actually tinker with the racthet and how dramatic the results really are. Atlscrog, Heard today there was flooding in Atlanta, hope everyone's alright.

I would consider what clips and brass you are using and then send a few clips with the cylinder so the tolerances are exact.

I have a friend who is very good with a Hi Point 9mm. It's his only handgun!

No, coffee does not help my scores, but it makes shooting more enjoyable! From to

I can't imagine any of them would be a good representation of what a quality gun actually feels like, but for ultra cheap prcatice I suppose it's better than nothing. Is this what you are talking about? http://www.pyramydair.com/cgi-bin/show.pl?...;category_id=54

I would keep after them until they get it right. Overall I've had good experiences with their waranty dept., but unfortunately every large company has people that will do half-assed work. Good Luck.

Save your original pin. If you have to send in your firearm for waranty work they will swap out your non-stock pin for the Cal. drop test crap pin. Ask me how I know.

Bump. I just cast up a mountain of these 158gr RNFPs and was hoping to use their weight to put down steel with authority. I think I'll try Unique. AZ, where do you crimp yours, no lube showing right?