pwrtool45

Thanks for the input guys. I'll take a shot with the Apex pin and the Wolff Type I. If that doesn't cut it, I'll look at modifying a stock mainspring since I have a spare. If that doesn't cut it, I'll probably just put the Type-I in a HMFP 686 and run the -5 in OEM configuration. Existing trigger is pretty good, just heavy.

I have a 686-5 that I purchased used sometime back around 1999-2000. IIRC, this is about the time they were released, so it's an early sample of the frame-mounted firing pin in a 686. In factory configuration, it will light off everything including factory seated (not crushed) CCI primers. Great. Nothing spectacular thus far; this just tells me it's not overtly broken. With a Wolff Type I ("factory strength") spring, it will fail to light off crush-seated Winchester primers once per cylinder. (It is indeed a Type-I; I have a Type-II for reference. The uncut strain screw is torqued all the way down.) I'm reasonably sure it's not the spring; I put it in my 625 (hammer mounted firing pin) and factory seated (not crushed) CCI primers popped 100% of the time. Since S&W has changed the FMFP numerous times throughout the life of the part, I assume I simply have a borderline early revision pin. My situation is this: I am not attempting to get a bleeding edge 4# super light trigger. Do I need an Apex FP (or other aftermarket pin) for my intended use, or would getting a new pin from S&W fix my problem? (The plan is to use a Wolff Type-I spring with the stock strain screw torqued down all the way. Primer sensitivity isn't at all desirable. I want to be able to light off factory-seated CCIs if need be.) Anyone?

Not sure if you did this for the sake of the pictures, but those pouches use a spring as the retention device...you probably don't want to leave speedloaders in there when you're not actively using them. I had 3 lose retention because I kept speedloaders in them between matches. Fortunately, Chris replaced them.

That's an understatement. Nevertheless, thank you for the links.

Page 18 of the rule book specifically states that "Disconnection or disabling of any safety device on any gun" is not permitted. However, the S&W M&P is available both with and without as a factory option. The "factory option" logic is what permits the extended slide stops and magazine release to be used on Glocks in SSP division (page 20). Does this logic extend to disabling the magazine disconnect on pistols that are available from the factory without a disconnect?

Someone shot some video at the last Arab IDPA match and got me. It's up on youtube, so it seems like I should post it here so everyone can gently critique what I'm doing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVYAgUjfaPc It's a video collage (sorry; not my video) I'm at: 0:26 (stage 1; 10 rounds; 0 down) 1:14 (stage 3; 12 rounds; 1 down) 2:28 (stage 5; 13 rounds; 6 down) So, I corner barrels slowly. I'm 90% sure that 6 points down on the last stage includes a -5...my brain was trying to coordinate my lower body (scooching) and upper body (front sight) and barfed. So, hit me. Edit: I could have sworn I posted this in the Video Tips subform. I suck at the internets.

Okay, this white triangle thing is bothering me. I have *one* blue tray (100ct) of the aforementioned Winchester primers with the "improved sensitivity" white triangle. I'm very damn nearly 100% sure these are from when Winchester *first* brought out the brass colored primers. *Years* ago. They're discolored with age and have been stuck back for long enough that I don't even remember when I bought them. Does anybody remember if Winchester put the same white triangle on their first run of blue WSP primers? Because I'm damn near 100% sure they did. I've bought a fair bit of WSPs in the last few months and they (obviously) do not have this marking. I think someone at Winchester is screwing with us. Specifically, those of us who might not have the best long term memory.

Heh. Every time I see someone post something about CSI I get an almost irrepressible urge to post this.

Thanks guys. The closest I've ever come to owning or using a K-frame for real was a Six-series Ruger some years ago. Didn't know if I was making things appreciably harder than they needed to be or not. I think I'll hold off, then. If I get a chance to shoot a K-frame I may reconsider, but for now I'll just keep grinding away with my L's. Thanks again.

As I think about it, it seems like a K-frame would be faster to reload. Less metal between the chambers means there's less stuff for you to misalign your speedloader on. Lighter weight would let you drive it faster, and with 125 PF loads the lessened weight would be a problem. Less cylinder mass to get moving seems like it would impact trigger pull. (And cylinder stop / cylinder life). So, really, are the apparent advantages worth it? Or would the time I took to compose this very post been better spent shrugging the idea off and just dry firing? Adjustable sight, 4" K-frames aren't terribly easy to come across around here, though the local shop has a new 4" 67 (complete with visible layer of dust) for $398. Plenty of model 10s and 64s for a bit less. I also don't have any K-frame sized Comp IIIs, and I'm not sure if my carriers or holster can be tightened down enough to work with a K-frame. So, the total cost is probably going to be in the neighborhood of $500 to convert to a K from an L. Worth it?