staudacher

Ken, this is the only source I am aware of for one specifically made for the X5. http://www.heribert-bettermann.de/html/index.php?id=prod-open&L=1

Just hand cycle everything to make sure you don't have any tolerance stacking issues before you fire it.

Well I'm sure as a company SIG or it's official reps are not going to tell you to mix and match parts regardless of compatibility. I have run into this type of situation with Toyota/Lexus. For the Lexus badged 4Runner Toyota came out with a replacement rear drive shaft after complaints of a clunking sound. For the Toyota badge vehicle they just say you need to grease the slip joint more often and deny the existence of the Lexus replacement drive shaft. The original drive shafts are the same Toyota part #.

Just to make it absolutely clear. The slide assembly on the SAO P226 is the same exact part number as the slide assembly on a DA/SA P226. Also the the slide for an Allround is the same part number as a slide for a X5 comp or L1.

Here is an open gun that has been around for a few years built with a standard p226 slide.

The X5 short and dumb guns are nothing but X5s with regular P226 slides. There is nothing different about the lockup of the two slides or the operation of the of the firing pin block. The X5 uses the same locking block as the P226. The SAO action components are the same on the p226 SAO as on the X5 SAOs. The P226 SAO slide is no different than the Slide on a P226 DA/SA.

Just put it on and go.

Yes you can run regular p226 topend on the X5 frames. You can also use the the p226 22conversions on the X5s.

Magwell grips will allow you to use the SIG/MecGar 20rnd magazines. The TF basepads are not compatible with any magwell or magwell grips.

Maybe. Maybe not. I can replicate the same problem by just gripping too hard. Not sure that gripping too hard could cause the muzzle dip. If anything, I would think that gripping very hard would reduce motion in all directions. Are you sure you don't mean the post-ignition push? Call it what ever you want to call it. I have experimented with it and had a couple other people also try it and every time the harder they gripped the gun the more pronounced the muzzle dip became. Now don't get me wrong the gun setup can also be at fault. And as Brad mentioned in the case of Tom's 9mm Major gun that was at least part if not all of the problem. Basically it comes down to a combo that works for you.

Maybe. Maybe not. I can replicate the same problem by just gripping too hard.

Here is an example of a 9mm Major open gun that does not return to POA like moverfive's gun does. The actual muzzle flip up isn't much more than the muzzle flip of Brad's gun however you notice when the gun comes down it dips well below intended POA. Now the big question how much is the gun and how much is the shooter? How would the recoil of the 9mm major gun shown here differ if Brad was shooting it? Or viva-versa how would the recoil of Brad's gun changed with someone else shooting it?

One thing to also remember when watching shooting videos. Guns that appear to shoot flat in a video shot at 30fps won't look all that flat at 300 or 600fps. Max's gun probably jumps around more than it looks like in the above video. It isn't how flat it shoots but how predictable the gun returns to the intended POA. IMO A guy told me once he could hold a Glock completely flat when he shot. He even showed me a video to prove it. So I made him a video at 300fps. You should have seen the look on his face when I showed him the video.

Here it is at half speed. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ja14UFQcP5A&list=UUzln5-8dz8CZSYdtCYN-I_A

Afraid I don't. I think the gun was built by a local guy around Nashville It is Brad Griffin's gun. (moverfive)

This is the flattest shooting gun I have run across. This is a friends 38 Super open gun. I shot the video at 600fps. There was a smudge on the C-More lens so the dot isn't real clear.

This an IPSC legal SIG mag that I have run for several years that holds 29rnds. I have also been working on a better comp for the linkless action. I have been testing it against available Glock comps.. Here is a an overlay of my latest prototype verses a Carver 4 port 9 Major comp.Ammo is Zero 125gr bullet over Autocomp at 1415fps

From the factory the X5s do have a spring that has been shortened two coils compared to a standard P226 spring. However the spring tunnel length of the X5 is sufficient to run a standard P226 spring.

Have all the problems been with the same ammo? If so are you running a fast powder? If the problem is the extractor. Another thing to try is going up on the recoil spring. A heavier spring will let the pressure drop of more before the gun unlocks. If you have access to a P226 40/357 green recoil spring you might give that a try. The green spring is around 20# if I recall correctly.

That approach could cause you to end up with coil bind. Like I mentioned above with two coils removed the difference in pull weight was not enough to even measure.

I've run a 17# with two coils removed. It provided no problems but it also did not provide a measurable difference in pull weight.

I have made some printed parts for my X-Line. Currently there is a company in Europe working on aftermarket parts for the X-Line guns so I most likely will not be producing any parts.

One significant difference with new X-Line guns is the beaver tail has been reshaped and the trigger guard undercut to allow for a higher grip.

I have one and it does increase the mainspring preload slightly. It did appear to make the gun I installed it in a bit more reliable when using the the 22 conversion and a 17lb mainspring. But I found that it isn't necessary if I use Aguila 22 ammo. While the aluminum mainspring boot does appear to make a slight difference, as long as the primers are fully seated I have never had an issue with any centerfire primer except Wolf when using a 17lb mainspring and the stock mainspring boot. . As a side note if you have a P226 with the old style long hammer strut an easy way to make the gun more reliable is to change to the newer short strut and mainspring base. It is amazing how much that long strut flexes.

One more thing. I am not a big fan of the fat rod. While it can solve the occasional issue of the smaller diameter single wire recoil springs coming out the front of the slide it can also cause its own problems due to the inconsistencies of the Wolff springs. If you do use the fat rod make sure the Wolff spring you are using does not bind on the rod and that you have a thin film of light oil on the rod.