major9

I would get an oil-lubed, rather than an oil-free, compressor. The oil-lubed is quieter than a oil-free. But both are loud at night. I like Sherwyn's dual tank setup.

You can also get silicone grease at a sporting goods store or dive shop. Divers, pre-charged pneumatic or HPA air gunners and paintballers use it to lube their O-rings.

I absolutely agree. But I said "not too commonly available" which to me means "can't drive to the big box or the mom-n-pop to find one or two." Quit fishing for compliments. That looks good. I know people who would shoot that. Check out . At about 50 seconds, there is flame out of the ejection port. I don't know how hot you are going to load, exactly where the rear of your scope is, etc.Just saying you might want to think about the the rear lens catching some gas and fouling... The extra weight of the comp will be balanced by the bullets in the mag, at the start. I don't think that in the heat of the stage, that you will notice that changing... much... One more think, I remember when I was shooting a tube sight, and the gunsmith put a 1 degree down angle in the mount screws so that the dot will zero in the middle of the scope adjustment range. I don't know if you will need this, but keep it in mind. Post pics when your mounts are done.

Yup, I also measured the 3 hole pattern at .750"(19.05mm) inches c-c. The 5 hole pattern looks even, so I'd assume .375"(9.52mm) c-c. The standard C-more screw is 5-40, with a major diameter of .125"(3.17mm). This is between the M3 which has a major diameter of .118"(3mm) and M3.5 major diameter of .138"(3.5mm) So, M3 would work as is, but does have less cross section, thus less shear strength. M3.5, you may have to ream the holes in any commercial C-more pattern mount, screw is stronger. M4, IMO, is too big. You will have to ream the mount and you will have less threads in the gun. I would go with the M3.5, but I don't know what is commonly available there. 5-40 is a standard size, but not too commonly available.

If you are still flipping primers, take the primer assembly off the press and run your finger along the primer path checking for burrs, sharp edges, etc. Basically anything that can catch the primer. The entire primer path should also be flat. Check the primer disk for burrs also. LIGHTLY lube the axle/center hole in the primer disk. When you reattach the primer assembly, center the primer disk hole with the primer ram. I do this by removing the toolhead and sighting straight down the assembly while tightening the assembly screws. Ditto the solid bench. Make sure you are smoothly operating the handle of the press. Lubing you cases, even if using carbide dies, will help. Sometimes the powder funnel/neck expander grabs the case and will jar the press when it releases. I have heard, but have never tried, lightly scratching the surface of the powder funnel with a scotchbrite pad. Use at your own risk. HTH

I have developed loads and loaded all my small primer calibers (minor 9, major9, 38SC, 40) with SRP. All guns are 2011 based, or AR 9mm in the case of minor 9. No issues, and no inventory maintenance of SPP. I did find a brick of SPP dated 1994. I'll probably go make minor 9 play ammo.

+1 for Fenix. I have a TK10 and TK11. I don't like clicky mode switching, so twisting the bezel to change intensity works for me.

Hi, I have a new (to me) Case Pro. Any experienced users have any hints and tips? I've found out that you have to break and polish the edge of the new movable die. This prevents the vertical dent in the cases. How often do you clean the brass shards and grease/dirt off the dies? Anything I should watch for? Thanks, Rob

Sounds like you've reached spring bind. This is where the coils of the spring touch each other and "become" solid. Do this on one mag (for now) IF there is enough force in the spring to positively lift the last round, then try cutting ONE coil off the bottom. Load one round. Positive lift? If yes, load up and try to insert into the gun (slide forward). Should lock in with "more believable" force. If not, repeat until it feels similar to a "downloaded by one" mag. Go out and play with this mag. If it works, repeat the whole process with the remaining mags.

All the previous posts have good advice. When I was playing with 40 loaded long, I had the same problem with my gauge. I ended up reaming the bullet portion of the case gauge. Before you even think about reaming your gauge, clean it well and try again. Clean the failed rounds and try again. Inspect your rounds for non-concentric bullet seating and/or tilted bullets, crud at the case mouth, etc. Are you using the correct bullet seating stem? Are you smoothly stroking the reloader? Try someone else's loaded rounds or factory in your gauge. Try your rounds in someone else's gauge. Since you are not loading long, I don't think you have to do this, but if you just gotta ream your gauge, here is how I did mine. Find a couple of bullets that are the correct diameter and round. I used a micrometer for this. Or you have them, use pin gauges. Using the perfect bullets, drop them through the case gauge. They should fall through. If they stick, you may have to LIGHTLY ream your gauge. I used an adjustable reamer and lots of oil. As soon as you feel the reamer scrape the gauge, stop, clean the gauge and try to drop the perfect bullets through. Stop as soon as the bullet passes through. Do NOT go one more pass for good luck. Also, if you do load long (I know you are not) make sure your barrel has enough freebore.

I actually shoot a CMC, but I voted S_I. And I did go to Nationals.

Did you try to "cut it" with plain media?

aessu, Nice work! Are you getting any blowby from the screw in your adjustable gas system? I think I'll go play with my AR.

I've usually had two failure modes on PDP3s. The dot goes intermittent. Broken traces or wires. And failing to zero. That is "shifting the group" rather than "suddenly shotgun pattern" The failure to zero is due (I'm told) by the "o-rings drying out" and the inner aiming tube not moving when you turn the adjustment knobs. Try this, clamp your frame in the vice and turn the adjustment knobs, but don't tap with the hammer. You should see the dot move smoothly in both axis and direction. If not, maybe your inner tube is swinging all over the place with the recoil. I've also had ONE failure (with a PDP4) where the LED mask fell off. Suddenly I had like a 10 hour dot. It could be that your mask is moving and causing your pattern.

Things I've tried for problem #2 1) remove and clean the groove in the shellplate. I usually find tumbling media in mine. 2) check the shellplate for burrs, flashing, sharp edges, etc. 3) while the shellplate is out, make sure a factory round slips in and out easily. 4) check the station 1 locator for tumbling media, burrs, etc. 5) check under the locator for tumbling media etc. I've removed the spring from under my locator. I don't know what Dillon's current recommendation is. 6) pull the problem shell and check the rim for burrs which may cause the shell to "snap" into place

Visually... http://www.break.com/index/how_to_shower_men_vs_women.html