Seth

My load of choice (based on BE recommendations and a few tries) is 200gr LSWC and 4.2gr Clays loaded to 1.225". I have tried the 230gr 3.7load and found I like the LSWC better -- little snappier, little cheaper, nice clean hole you can see at 25 yards.

Funny, I said the same thing when I move to California. The problem is that many/most places in the bay area aren't used to dealing with the heat. As I said, I owned an apartment in the middle of North Beach in San Francisco that didn't have A/C or even a ceiling fan. Most of the time it was so moderate/ cool that you didn't need it. So when its REALLY hot, the businesses and residences don't have the infrastructure in place to make it comfortable. The house we bought in Encinitas (San Diego county) was 4 bedrooms and 3 miles from the ocean... and it didn't have A/C. So if an oddball, super hot day came along, you sweated...

Holy sh.... Howard, can you mill my slide? I just got wood....

I agree. After we left San Francisco, we moved to San Diego... truly the 'flower' of Cali.

I remember a few nasty days living in San Francisco... not the usual 50degree fog with wind, but the 100+ without A/C or even a ceiling fan. I feel your pain.

Excellent!!! We're shooting Area 8 Championships next week and then VA/MD Sectionals 2 weeks later. Shoot me an email and lets catch up! seth@offroadmarketing.com Seth

I have tried both. The outcome is more consistent with a fully sanded grip. I mostly use a die grinder with a flexible disc to take the checkering off. I haven't tried undercutting yet, as neither myself nor my buddy has cared. That's next. Seth

I started messing with stippling my Edge a month or so back and had a buddy that really liked the results. He brought me his spare and agreed to let me do whatever I wanted to it, so I took a cue from G-manbart and made a bigger tip. We both liked the outcome so much that I took a spare blue grip I had and tried the same stipple and painted it. The paint isn't quite cured yet (takes 7 days), but I think its going to be good and tough. The painted one would look great on a hard chromed pistol, I think. Its a dark silver with a metallic flake. Seth

I load my 200gr SWC to 4.2gr Clays at 1.225"OAL. It makes 168pf over multiple chronos through a Springfield TRP. Its honestly not much different feeling than my 230gr load at 4.2gr Clays which makes a 172 pf. Seth

+3 on the tumbler. Tried that with a couple of factory tubes and it made them much prettier (and slicker).

I'll give you a hint... Seth is my first name....

Well.... a swing and a miss. 150 rounds thru her tonite and she fell to half cock at round 135. So... it ain't the overtravel. On the flip side, I sorted out the pin issue. Turns out the port side it .001 bigger than the other side. I had a spare parts pin laying around that was a little bigger and she seems to have solved that issue. Meanwhile...

Axial. Just enough that it displaces the little bit of oil around the pin hole. Clearly the hole is oversized a whisker... but what's the tolerance?

I'm certain that the overtravel is now adjusted properly. The bump/ 3rd click I was hearing was definitely in the mainspring housing, and I'm assuming its coil binding on plastic. The only thing left that concerns me is that I can see the sear/disconnect pin move SLIGHTLY on the port side of the gun. The pin doesn't move on the other side. Is a tiny bit of pin movement when thumb cocking the hammer between the half cock and full cock notch normal?

So I did a thorough detailed cleaning today and now feel a whisker of resistance about where the hammer would catch at full cock. Smooth travel, no more click, but the slightest bump. Howard, you've got a PM! Seth

I prefer the 200s. Its snappier.

I contacted the mfg a month ago and they still had a few units left from this run and were still very much in business. Seth

I run Clays 3.7gr with 230s and 4.2gr with 200s. The 200gr ran 168pf. The 230s ran 172pf. I chrono'd yesterday (80* sunny). OAL is 1.265/ 1.225" respectively. HTH. Seth

Bill, I'm TRYING to fix it. Got any suggestions??

The strut and sear spring are nicely parallel and I don't see any indication of the strut touching the disconnector leaf. The trigger bows were about .015 longer and about .008 narrower. Per your advice, I go them as close to each other as possible. As I've messed with this, I've started to wonder about the damage I'm doing to the sear and hammer. The Dawson mags I bought don't have a provision for locking the slide back empty. Is that the equivalent to dropping the slide on an empty chamber EVERY time I run the gun dry? Have I created a monster? Should I NOT be running the gun dry with those mags? Accordingly, have I killed a perfectly good trigger job doing this? Seth

As it turns out, it is all the way out. The trigger itself is bottoming out on the frame now. I played with it with the mainspring housing unpinned and slightly past the strut and its smooth. With the grip safety and thumb safety out and the msh in, the hammer strut SEEMS to be moving on the pin in the MSH and causing the click. Not 100% sure that its the MSH, but it seems to be. I'll swap one from a buddies STI and see for sure. That isn't the following issue, though. I'll take your advice on the overtravel and see how it does. Any reason I can't just take it out?

Success! 180gr cast lead truncated cone Mastercast.net bullet, 4.6gr VV N320, OAL 1.180. 168 PF over 25 rounds. 80* temp, good sunshine, moderate humidity. Max deviation was 14ft/s.

Gun in strong hand with good grip, trigger pulled all the way back. Thumb the hammer back with weak hand, hear a slight click at 1/2 way. Nothing else on the way up, clicks again at almost the half cock notch on the way back. Thoughts? Thanks Howard!

My STI Edge was recently returned to me from STI where she got a tune up and a trigger job. With it set to 3#, the pull was fantastic and crisp, but I forgot to get them to swap in a short trigger. After take a few careful measurements, I ordered the trigger and installed it yesterday. Prior to installation, I polished the bows and fitted the trigger to the frame as closely as I could without any bind. Range tested today, I ran about 300 rounds through it without issue. Handed it to a buddy of mine who's an A class shooter and has a SERIOUSLY fast split time (RO accused him of going full auto) the hammer followed. I didn't see it do it but once and that was to the half cock notch, but he says it was following all the way when he was blazing every so often. I adjusted the overtravel and couldn't get it to do it again, nor could he. The disconnect was working properly prior to my buddy wailing on it and passed all safety checks. Should I be actively concerned and have it checked out or was the overtravel causing the issue? TIA. Seth

Cool. I'm close enough I'm going to check out the next match at the NRA range.