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UW Mitch

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Posts posted by UW Mitch

  1. If someone has large amounts of brass to clean, what about using an old beater washing machine? Plenty of them out there for cheap.

    Now the brass might bust up the impeller, chip enamel off, or get wedged between impeller and bottom of tank( so use a beater machine)............but I'd go that route just to see what happens.

    Probably the mixing action would be poor with most of the brass staying on the bottom.......but worth a try.

    Anyone done this?

    BB

    What about a concrete mixer?

  2. FWIW here's my load:

    9Major

    Montana Gold 124gr CMJ

    7.5gr Sil

    1.170" COL

    Winchester Small Rifle Primer

    This is shot through a 5" JPL gun. At 7.5gr it's was just above the border of making major, so I've moved to 7.7gr, which puts me up a little higher than most people might agree with.

    ~Mitch

  3. I throw a big cardboard box upside down over the tumbler to help dampen the noise. For a while I ran it with the lid off, outside, with a fan blowing away from my buddies house, but figured the dust is going somewhere. So now I'm lid on, drier sheets inside, box to cover the whole thing.

    Mitch

  4. I had a 10mm that I was shooting at an indoor range, and hated having to chase my brass down so carefully as it was expensive. So when I decided to go with open, shooting outside, I really didn't want to have to chase after all my brass. Plus my smith, JPL, shoots 9Major himself. So for the most part I don't have to chase my brass down, and if I do, I only use them for minor loads after that.

    ~Mitch

  5. To load more rounds....

    Okay seriously - I load until I don't have anymore primers in the machine. If I need to prematurely empty the primers I take off the primer sensor, and pull out the primer feed tube.

    Powder - take off the powder measure and I pour the powder into a funnel back into the container it came from. You need to kind of roll it and slosh it once most of the powder gets poured out because some will trap inside the baffle. When I'm done pouring most/all of it out, I manually cycle the powder bar a couple times over the funnel to drop anything that might be left.

    ~Mitch

  6. 1. Either of the two RO's running stage.

    2. Either of the two RO's could issue the DQ.

    3. You really need to definitively cite a rule that you can be sure the shooter broke - in this case 10.4.3 is the best one for the situation. I don't know if a shooter can dispute it, but come on - the gun went off when it shouldn't have. Learn your lesson (whether that's a gear problem or a finger problem) help out and tape and be a good sport about it.

    4. One of the RO's has to see it (I believe). I'm an RO and watched a shooter high muzzle approaching a port and launch a round over the berm. Neither RO saw it, I did, but they couldn't or didn't want to DQ her over something they couldn't confirm with their own eyes.

    ~Mitch

  7. we went to the safety area and found out his grip safety was off and that he had the lightest trigger pull i've ever seen on a 1911.

    Confirmation that it was a dicey situation at best. Good observation on the thumbsafety not being engaged.

    ~Mitch

  8. I thought primers were expensive - $25 for a little bottle of sunscreen?!?! I just get the waterbabies from Costco or Coppertone from Target. What I really like is the aerosol coppertone for reapplication during the match.

    ~Mitch

  9. Not sure about the JP brake specifically, but one that I have (Miculek style) came with a split washer and a jam nut. You put the nut then the washer on, then spin the brake on until it's all the way down, then back it off until it's timed correctly (i.e. ports facing the way you want) then tighten the jam nut up to it. No loctite on mine - with the heat the barrel gets to anyway, I think it'd melt standard red loctite.

    ~Mitch

  10. I just cycled a few 40S&W cases through my shell plate and locator pins for 9mm and it seemed to move through just fine - maybe a little snugger in there than a 9mm case, but there's a lot of play with a 9mm case. Amazing what you can learn!

    Dillon - is there a reason NOT to do this? If I don't "NEED" to switch the shell plate when I convert between 9 & 40 that would save some time.

    ~Mitch

  11. Well the good news then is it's not the tubes - which means you will be able to put the grams guts in there and have joy. Noticed Henning is offering kits pairing the grams guts with his base pads. Might be the way to go for an extra high cap 10mm. BTW, are you shooting factory or reloaded ammo? If you're reloading, check out some of the threads in Hennings forum. I was getting nose dives with my 40S&W until I started undersizing. Might be something to pay attention to if you go with extended basepads.

    ~Mitch

  12. Steve,

    There's something binding in your mags that is causing them to not take 15 rounds (btw, when I got mine they were REALLY tight at 15). Before going out and getting the Grams Spring/Follower (which I highly recommend if you want more capacity than 15) try to figure out what's wrong with the mags you have.

    Disassemble the mags (push the thingy on the bottom in, and slide the floor plate off).

    Is there a burr on the follower? What's it hanging up on as the follower moves down the tube? Maybe there's a burr in the mag tube?

    Once you check this out, post your findings.

    When you order your Grams kit from Henning, you'll want the 11-coil spring/follower for the large frame. If you call Henning, he will be able to set you up with the right stuff. And while you're at it, you may want some aluminum base pads as well (even MORE capacity) and they're not likely to break when the mag hits the floor.

    ~Mitch

  13. Interesting. I would've liked to have seen him doing a demo, or recording this video, standing down range while a class did some live fire drills in order to demonstrate to us what he was preaching.

    Personally, I'll pass on being downrange.

    ~Mitch

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