Jump to content
Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo!

UW Mitch

Classifieds
  • Posts

    772
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by UW Mitch

  1. Seems like they've priced it out of what we might perceive as their target market. But maybe they know something we don't...or they just don't want to make very many of them. Oh well I guess that means sticking to the custom gunsmith ;)

    ~Mitch

  2. S4 Tactical in Hillsboro, OR has Magtech small and large pistol primers for $5.50 a flat if anyone's willing to pay that. I don't think they'll ship (although you might ask) as they've got ammo and primers in the store they're selling for a friend. Trying to get their friend to track down some other stuff for me - if he can get it at a sane enough price.

    ~Mitch

  3. My smith (JPL) had me go with a regular type extractor (Ed Brown I think). Then he showed me the tool from Brownells and how to keep it tuned. I keep it checked after every match during my inspection and clean and (knock on wood) haven't had any problems. Not much experience with the Aftec, except it is in one limited gun I picked up second hand. I can't "tune" it like standard extractor - I guess you just replace springs.

    ~Mitch

  4. When I switched to Fed Sm Pistol Mag from Fed Sm Pistol regular I picked up a few point in PF. Don't know the correlation to Wolff SPP. Expect a couple points of PF, but nothing big. If you're worried back down the charge just a little, chrono and work back up.

    ~Mitch

  5. I started out using 124gr. Then switched to 147's because they were softer feeling. But then I went back to 124 because I liked the way the slide on my guns snapped with the 124's. Every shooter is different. Try some 147s for a while and see if you like it better or see any appreciable performance increase during matches.

    ~Mitch

  6. Try using rice for media - you won't need any polish at all. Sounds crazy, works very well.

    I tried rice for a while, but it seemed like it was getting "gummy" as it wore down. And being asian it just seemed morally incorrect ;) Was definitely worth a try though. Maybe brown rice would've been better?

    ~Mitch

  7. Never tried the Slug, but if you're playing a game where the Slug is legal, then the Dawson heavy magwell would be also. I really liked how it sat, balanced the gun (on a G19!) and indexed my hand. I know it's more expensive than the Slug, but depending on your application, it has a lot of benefits.

    ~Mitch

  8. Well since ya beat me this weekend in Dundee, I don't know if I should share with you John's non-secret sauce. I'm using Winchester Small Rifle with about the same load otherwise. John said that because the pressures are so high you need the rifle primers or what you describe could occur. I also have a bunch of unburned powder in the gun when I go to clean it - more than I'm used to with anything else. If you switch to rifle primers that may help with your ignition as well. Good luck!

    ~Mitch

  9. Slightly tangent, but if the RO came in contact with you during the course of fire and caused you to lite one off, or spun you around past the 180, would that be a match DQ also? The ruling sounds wrong all around (which seems to be the general consensus).

    ~Mitch

  10. The 1911 platform has soooo many aftermarket accessories/parts and people with knowledge and ability to tune to your hearts content. You could shoot that Kimber in IDPA CDP, USPSA Single Stack or L-10. Not sure where the Baby Eagle fits into any of the "games".

    ~Mitch

  11. I use drier sheets in my tumbler - at first I was using old drier sheets thinking the cloth would act like a filter and pick up the dust, but found that new drier sheets work better - the dust really sticks to whatever is on the drier sheets. I also treat my media with NuFinish. Additionally when they come out of the tumbler, after separating you can blow them off with air (if you have a small compressor or tank) then to the beach towel - that serves two purposes - to get the remaining dust (if any) off and to inspect the brass (get out the strays from other calibers the you missed before).

    ~Mitch

  12. When I took my RO class, the instructor was explict that the shooter cannot "ungun" in this manner unless in a safe area or under the control of the RO at the end of the stage. So I don't see why not just bag as normal as opposed to taking the whole unit off the belt attachment.

    ~Mitch

    Guys,

    You do realize all this loc tite and set screw sort of defeats the whole purpose of the holster design, right?

    Ribas has a gun pouch/rug that covers the holster block and gun. Once covered, you can remove your gun/holster assembly by loosening the screw and sliding it out. As for being able to remove/replace your "covered/bagged" gun from ones person, not sure if its legal or not according to the rules, but the majority of RO's I talked to at last years A2 said they had no problem with me removing/replacing my "covered/bagged" gun.

    Just a FYI.

  13. It I were responsible for the design I'd close the top of the slot that the screw goes through. That way even if the screw got loose it might fall an inch or so, but it would stop at the end of the slot. All you'd have to do to take the holster off would be to completely unscrew the thumb screw rather than just loosen it...not a bad compromise. R,

    One of the ROs who was there when it happened (who happens to work in a mill) said if I had a tig welder or knew someone who did, to just weld in a little bridge over the top as you've suggested. Maybe it's a point for a future redesign.

    ~Mitch

×
×
  • Create New...