MemphisMechanic

My M&P had a clean-breaking 2.7lb trigger with reset nearly as short as the Tanfo (a weld placed in the right spot deletes all the overtravel) and it ate CCI primers perfectly. So, perhaps my standards were a bit higher. That said, I do prefer the solid feel of an all-metal gun's action to the spongy polymer and SPRRRTOINK! dryfire sound of a striker gun.

I was never seriously contemplating this anyway. And the casting/scanning processes definitely talked me out of it.

It is supposed to! The slide release being pushed upward by the follower? That is what locks the gun open on the last shot in every handgun you own.

For my first few stages my issue is always the SA trigger. Shots break just a pinch more quickly - and I drop more charlies - than I would've with the M&P my finger is used to. At the same time, despite the insanely short reset I find myself trigger-freezing like a boss on close open targets. There's so much chatter in here about the difficulty of getting used to shooting the DA pull, when that's much more similar to the long polymer gun triggers most of us switched from. The single action is the greater challenge. It lacks pre-travel and you prep the trigger more with pressure than with actual movement of the finger... but every time I mow down a plate rack with the Tanfo with relative ease? I remember that it's well worth it.

All valid reasons. Being a good PR person is a great deal of fun. In addition, if you're their primary contact you get to help them avoid "drinking from a fire hose" syndrome they often get on a squad of helpful shooters. Tell them only what they need to know to get started, and avoid having an overdose of information gushing out of their ears. I find that getting all the newbies on one squad really helps return attendance too. They make friends with each other, and aren't left with a crushed soul after a day spent with (G)M class shooters setting a bar that looks impossible to reach. Having them squadded with a couple of Bs Cs and Ds in addition to someone A or better is often helpful, really. They see the skill progression and it looks less impossible to get there someday.

The follower should push the slide stop upward when the magazine is empty, and when you rack the slide in addition to the drag you feel... the slide will lock back at the rear.

You'll get more traffic in the Tanfoglio forum: http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?/forum/202-eaatanfoglio/

I think I'd want to cast the back of the factory grips in plaster or similar, and make a mold to cast the micarta grips with. Otherwise I have no idea how you'd get the backs & contour right.

Shoot the gun with the factory recoil spring next time. Until your gun runs reliably, you need to plunk and spin every single round before going to the range from now until the issue is resolved. It's not impossible that you've driven those particular rounds back into the case a few thousandths when you hit them with the firing pin. I will say that none of my light strikes have ever been offcenter at all. I may be wrong, but I'd be looking for the source of an out of battery gremlin.

Ahh so it's a process not a material. I never knew this about micarta knife grips. I'll likely wait for Patriot to come out with theirs, but if not I'm certain YouTube has dozens of tutorials on something knife-related like that.

Okayyyy In the cold, and rain, I had the only 100% reliable gun on my squad today! Finally. Even with the extended firing pin from PD and their heaviest hammer spring, my gun still wasn't consistent with CCI primers loaded on a Dillon 650. Shimming the primer ran upward .040 and even. .060 later on made no difference. My primers still measure .002-.008 below flush, varying through that range. The design of the press doesn't permit you to eliminate that variation. So I shot my first USPSA match with a 100% reliable Tanfoglio today. Running an AEGD Medium hammer spring, and finding out that a glass smooth 7lb DA is actually pretty damn shootable. Every first round fired today was an Alpha. Video coming soon, but now all I need to do is dryfire with the gun consistently. Reloads remain horrible, and the past few classifieds with it have dragged me further back from A class. I'm beyond certain that I'd have made that jump by now if I'd been shooting the M&P my hands are still used to operating.

I'll enjoy applying the patina myself, thanks.

SEND ME A PAIR

Oh if it's approved per DNROI... That letter is getting laminated and kept in my range bag. And this thing is getting carved up like Thanksgiving turkey I want my Tanfo scratched to hell and hopefully rusty in a place or two in a few years. I actively dislike pretty guns, so mine can be the guinea pig. Iffffff they say it's okay.

More info on working with micarta...?

Wonder if he'd mill the slide for one then. either machine the dovetail for an oversized mount or mill the slide to directly mount one...

VV N320 and the new kid on the block, Nobel Prima V, are the two cleanest options that shoot softly in 147gr 9mm which I have personally tried. Since 11 pounds of Prima V was only $178 to my door from Powder Valley a bit back, In sticking with it for a while. That's half the price of N320.

My personal preference is Federal HST. Not only is it one of the most reliable modern hollowpoint bullet designs out there... it's also gotta be loaded with Federal primers. I would want federal primers in match ammo for Nationals. That means I damn sure want them in my carry ammo. Not that it matters - my guns eat CCIs (Speer Gold Dot) juuuust fine.

I don't want to polish the frame. I want to carve it like Thanksgiving turkey. So it looks like the post from the Sig group that is linked. A 1/8" thick flat ridge left all the way around, the rest of the magwell angled inward at 30+ degrees... (My gun isn't hard chromed, and is getting cerakoted)

If it hasn't been hot-rodded with lighter springs and eats your chosen defense ammo flawlessly, nope. No reason at all.

I will let you know what reply I receive. Based on the DNROI reply in this, I think flaring it is legal: My email: "To: dnroi@uspsa.org Section 22.4 is somewhat ambiguous in it's wording. It seems to indicate that as long as the opening isn't enlarged more than 1/4" away from the body of the magazine in any direction, *mild* flaring of the magwell on a metal-framed gun with a file is permitted. By extension, polishing that surface would be permitted as well. Is this a correct interpretation? Our local RM isn't certain. The sticking point appears to be the word "external" whenever I discuss this... Does the rule perhaps refer to the frame of the gun being factory profiled as viewed from the sides, front, and rear? What is used to determine if work is External, and therefore put a gun into Open division?"

That's the way I want to read things, too. I'm just not sure an RM at a major match will agree... Someone post a photo of their Tanfo's magwell so I can attach it to the email I'm sending to DNROI for a definitive ruling - in writing.

I've always found 22.4 to be one of the most poorly worded rules in existence... Does this say you can flare the well out 1/4" longer and wider than the mag body? Or that those are maximum dimensions? How much beveling COULD you do before it was considered external? None? Anythingg not visible as viewed from the sides or top of the gun?

Truglo Replacement Fibers .060X5.5 Optic, Multiple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BFVCGU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7woEybG42ZAPD If the forum tries to take you to some spam site, just copy and paste the URL into your browser. BEnos.com seems to do that ever since the software upgrade. I find I like amber almost as much as green, more than red... doesn't have your other colors though.

For USPSA you want to do the majority of your trigger presses in dryfire as fast an ugly as possible - learning to do that and still come straight back. Hold the gun out extended. finger in contact but not pressuring trigger. at the buzzer, drop the hammer before the "beep" stops. Makes you pull it fast. Begin to learn to clamp down on the gun ruthlessly with the weak hand with every dryfire rep you do. More pressure with it than with strong hand isn't natural. That'll take lots of practice