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caspian guy

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Posts posted by caspian guy

  1. I buy once fired single head stamp 9mm to shoot in my open gun. Not for the consistency of velocity but for uniform dimensions. That was prompted by an article that bob at brazos wrote for front sight. He took and measured several different head stamps ( may have been .40 or 9mm don't remember) and found a lot of variation in rim diameter, thickness, grove diameter. Before when I shot mixed headstamp brass in my guns I used to get occasional wierd jams (very ocasional). Also the ejection pattern was eratic. With single headstamp (fc) all the brass piles up in a neat pile and hasn't had a one of those wierd jams in 10's of thousands of rounds. (9mm major 38 sup breach face aftec).

    Just my experience fwiw...

  2. At the club match I run we do 4 pistol and 2 rifle stages every month. One of the long pistol field courses usually gets re-used as a rifle stage. Shooting an open pistol I am usually a bit faster on targets from contact distance to 12-17 yards and lots of movement and transitions. Beyond that distance I am usually faster with a rifle.

  3. The last time I had to re-zero was when I got to Las Vegas last year for the nationals. Even in a pelican. Getting banged around in transit was enough to cause it to shoot about a foot low and several inches to the right. Strangely the trip back didn't bother it at all.

    (Thanks again to the american shooters guys for letting us use their indoor range to re-zero).

  4. I would not normaly have thought 10k rounds would cause that much difference. Have you shot it for group off bags? If it still groups ok I have used the .356 trick in the past and it did seem to help with the velocity. Is this the same batch/lot of powder you were using before.

  5. There are several oft repeated choices for 1-4s (seems like a thread pops up on that at least once a week). I like one that is day light illuminated true 1x on the bottom end and that will take a cat-tail/power lever. My choice is the Meopta K-Dot, other choices in that arena would be something like the Trijicon accupoint 1-4. With either of these scopes, for me at least, they are just about as fast as an EOTech on up close targets.

    If I lived somewhere with more distance I'd probably be looking at a Burris XTR 1.5x6 like the one mentioned above.

  6. A simple way to test this:

    On a warm sunny day take 30 rounds of your match ammo and do the following.

    Take 10 rounds and put them in a zip lock bag (seal it well don't want no wet ammo) and stick them in a cooler with ice.

    Leave 10 rounds in your shooting bag in the shade.

    Take the remaining 10 rounds and sit them on a dark colored towel and put the in the sun till they are warm/hot to the touch.

    After your ammo has gotten down/up to temp ( I usually give it an hour). Shoot them across your chrono and note what happens to the average, low and high velocity.

    Shoot them as quickly as possible after removing them from their representative conditions.

    If you really cared to make this scientific you would need to measure the actual temp of the ammo prior to shooting it (maybe sick a termometer in an empty case that are under the test conditions).probably want a few other data points as well.

  7. If 100 yards is the max you are dealing with a red dot scope of some kind with a good quality dot that holds zero would be my choice hands down. (I have had pretty good luck with 1st gen bushnel holo sights from ebay).

    Inside of 300 yards the weaver works just fine. I used a weaver when I started shooting tac-optics and still have it (though I use a meopta kdot on my primary...). The weaver sits on a rifle I use as a loaner and I have never had a bit of trouble out of it.

  8. Welcome to the BE forums, one of the most pleasant and helpful online shooting communities anywhere.

    I think the entire USPSA population of the state of GA must belong to this forum so I imagine they'll be by shortly to say hello :)

  9. It is possible to use a carbine buffer in a rifle stock (rifle length tube). BUT, to do this you need to fabricate a spacer to go in the back of the rifle tube to take up the difference in length between the carbine tube and the rifle length tube. This will stop the carrier from going too far into the tube and damaging the gas key or the lower.

    I think MSTN will sell you one.

    I turned one out of a block of nylon.

    If you want a lighter buffer though, probably better to mess with the weights in the buffer. (a search will find links to replacing those weights in the buffer with other material, etc

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