caspian guy
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Posts posted by caspian guy
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Call gary at caspian and ask him what they suggest.
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Hornady 55gr FMJ BT WC cheap and acurate
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For open I use a welded up big stick (made from 2 of the old style mags) from Jim Anglin. It has a grams spring and follower and he converted the ears at the bottom of the mag to use a dawson basepad for an sti style mag. It holds 29 rounds of super comp reloadable or 29 round of 9mm with a some what tight fit. Works 100% worth every penny.
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All 11 off my caspian mags (including my big sticks) run 9mm major with no spacer... It just wasn't ever a problem.
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If a person is wishing to put a carbine buffer in a rifle buffer tube.....you MUST do the following.
1)Use the carbine Buffer Spring
2)You need a plug that is .98" dia x 2.625" long
First, install the plug, followed by the spring, then the buffer.
Dimensionally, the Rifle buffer tube (inside) is 2.625" longer than a carbine buffer tube.
If you do not use a plug, your bolt carrier WILL smash into the back of the lower reciever, damaging it. It may also break and you could win a trip to the ER.
Tim
Tim,
Thanks for posting the dimensions for the spacer.
I was too lazy to pull mine out of the rifle it is in to measure it for him.
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Use your ballistic program to see where your zeros are the same. 50/200 is pretty common but check your own loads to make sure of course. Then use the number above 100 for the swarovski calculator.
OP
I thought about that, but won't the calculator assume that the bullet will still elevating upwards on it's flight path if I enter 200, when it will really be coming down at 200 yards if it is sighted in for 50?
Maybe you could plug in 225 for the zero and see what it tells you for the other distances and see if they make sense?
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If you already have the 14.5 barrel you could have a comp permanently attached to get the barrel length greater than 16".
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That's all there is to it I sense a BE forums team...
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Good call, getting the correct buffer is probably your best course of action.
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No... Dont do it. This combination (carbine buffer is too short for the rifle buffer tube) will allow the bolt carrier to travel too far back when it cycles. The back of the gas key will probably impact the back of the lower.
This combination can be made to work however... What you must do is fabricate a spacer to go in the back of the rifle buffer tube. The spacer has to be long enough to fill the extra space in the rifle buffer tube to make it the same length inside as a carbine buffer tube. I have a rifle set up this way. I made the spacer out of nylon.
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Started using them several years ago for loading and cleaning. Can't be too careful with lead or solvents.
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Try these guys http://rocketcityshooters.com/ I am not sure of their schedule.
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Not sure I'd bump that to open.
I have a hand stop on one of my rifles (that looks very similar) that would probably be fairly effective for that purpose if I added a piece of skateboard tape to the front of it.
Most of my rifles have sling swivel studs on the float tube (one at 6 o'clock for occasional bipod use and one at 9 o'clock for the sling. I have used those before as an aid to stabilize my carbine on a barricade would you see that as a support device.
So I guess the question is intent vs utility? Hmm....
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So far, I've built 7.5", 10", 12", and 14.5" uppers for my family of SBR's (all standard gas systems). The 7.5" needed a pigtail gas tube plus the port opened to run consistently. The others all ran fine as issued. I run a can on the 12" gun (standard gas with a Gasbuster charging handle), one of the 14.5" guns (Adams Arms piston system), and a POF 18" upper. All work fine.
The can on the 7.5" gun was a bit...abrupt. As in "I abruptly stopped shooting it because there was hot gas and powder residue in my eyes, oh damn, oh damn" (or words to that effect). Even with the Gasbuster it was annoying. On the standard gas 12", no problems at all.
Alex
Hmm... Good to know... I wonder if the piston setup on the 7.5" upper will help with the gas in the face effect from a suppressor... I have never shot a supressor on an upper this short.
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I have a 7.5" upper I just shot for the first time today (on a pistol lower). I built it with an Adams Arms piston kit and a flaming pig muzzle device. It ran the first 80ish rounds of Hornady Training ammo (steel cased version of their tap ammo) with no drama... Tried it with the gas block set to the wide open position, and in the supressed position (reduces the gas some) both worked. Not a long term test I know but I was impressed with how well it worked in a barrel length that is hard to make work normaly. I'll be curious to see how it works long term...
Short uppers may be a good niche for these piston things.
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I guess that depends a bit on the ranges you'll be shooting at.
Somewhere between 200 and 300 probably...
I'd start at 50 yards then check it at 200 to see where that puts your load out of your rifle... An initial 50 yard zero ought to yield a zero between 200 and 250 depending on your setup. It would also be a good idea to crono your load as well so that you can plug it in to a ballistic calculator (several on-line) and get a drop chart.
I like the one at http://www.hornady.com/ballistics-resource/ballistics-calculator
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Learning to find the dot is just a matter of dry fire practice... What I usually tell people starting out is to focus on the target. Then when you present the gun during the draw make sure that you do so in a way that you are looking through the lens at the target. The push the gun out straight... If you are coming from limited you will have a tendency to present the gun too high and find yourself looking at the back of the c-more and not through the lens.. Likewise when you go back to limited from a stint in open you'll have a tendency to present the gun too low and find yourself looking over the sights...
Avoiding this seems to be one of the best justifications for the sideways c-more mounts... The get the lens closer to where sights would be.
If I lose the dot I find that if I put the top of the adjustment knob in the bottom of the lens it will show back up...
Welcome to the darkside :-)
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So are you saying we should join EAGC?
Well, you could, but you could go over and shoot at the Mobile area Club 4 times between now and then.......
Yeah come on
over would gladly like you to come shoot with us! 
Zactly, what I was thinking, Brett.
Don't you have to be a member of the club and shoot 4 matches? Of course not sure how all clubs decide who is a member?
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Check with benelli2 (I think he ran one for a while).
Check with Stefan I believe he is still running his... (it seems to work well enough to beat me regularly).
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With the extra weight in the caspian frame I like a standard barrel with a cone comp. The bull barrel can make the gun a bit heavy and make the gun a bit slow on transitions. (but as with most things that is a matter of taste).
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The egw mag well slides on from the back over the mag well that is built into the frame. limcat might be making a magwell since they are building caspians now.
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I voted black but only with a suitable backer.
We use powdered lime on the berm behind the steel to create contrast. It seems to hold up fairly well and you can see the dust kick on misses.
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http://www.ipscalabama.com/ has a listing for all the clubs in the Alabama Section. I believe Rocket City has their match this saturday. Their website is: http://rocketcityshooters.com/
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Welcome to the forum
over would gladly like you to come shoot with us! 
My My, what a large ejection port you have Grandma
in Shotgun - Technical
Posted
Ok where does the waiting list start?