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My home built wet tumbler


biggdawg

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biggdawg : I recently found this tumbler build and lots of great info. I built one just about exactly what you made and I was having problems with the 1/2" heater hose slipping on the shaft. Did you glue the heater hose onto the shaft so it would not slip?

I think I might have to add another pulley to drive the second shaft, my pillow bearings are new and not broken in yet so the drum sits on top of the shafts and hardly spins because the second shaft is hardly moving at all.

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biggdawg : I recently found this tumbler build and lots of great info. I built one just about exactly what you made and I was having problems with the 1/2" heater hose slipping on the shaft. Did you glue the heater hose onto the shaft so it would not slip?

I think I might have to add another pulley to drive the second shaft, my pillow bearings are new and not broken in yet so the drum sits on top of the shafts and hardly spins because the second shaft is hardly moving at all.

The hose shouldnt move, its a royal pain in the ass to get on actually. I had to lube the shaft with windex to get the hose on.

Even new the pillow bearings should move freely. There is something wrong with them. I would say grease them but even new with no grease they will spin. Check to make sure the bearings are aligned in the steel block correctly. I know I got one that was cocked to the side a little bit.

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biggdawg : I recently found this tumbler build and lots of great info. I built one just about exactly what you made and I was having problems with the 1/2" heater hose slipping on the shaft. Did you glue the heater hose onto the shaft so it would not slip?

I think I might have to add another pulley to drive the second shaft, my pillow bearings are new and not broken in yet so the drum sits on top of the shafts and hardly spins because the second shaft is hardly moving at all.

The hose shouldnt move, its a royal pain in the ass to get on actually. I had to lube the shaft with windex to get the hose on.

Even new the pillow bearings should move freely. There is something wrong with them. I would say grease them but even new with no grease they will spin. Check to make sure the bearings are aligned in the steel block correctly. I know I got one that was cocked to the side a little bit.

I put some spray on glue inside the hose and on the shaft and that took care of that problem. The pillow bearings are all about the same as far as the amount of effort I need to move them with my fingers without them being mounted. I have greased the bearings and it didn't really make any difference. Right now I have the motor turning the shaft with two of them running with no load on them and I will let them run all day and see if that free's them up any. If it does then I will simply just change the bearings for the other ones and give it a try.

If the bearing don't free up much then I will take the front shaft and bearings off and mount some simple wheel rollers on a piece of wood to support the front of the drum and run it like that until the bearings free up and then change shafts and then I should be good to go.

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biggdawg : I recently found this tumbler build and lots of great info. I built one just about exactly what you made and I was having problems with the 1/2" heater hose slipping on the shaft. Did you glue the heater hose onto the shaft so it would not slip?

I think I might have to add another pulley to drive the second shaft, my pillow bearings are new and not broken in yet so the drum sits on top of the shafts and hardly spins because the second shaft is hardly moving at all.

i just push the heater hose on the shaft -- it usually is a real pain to get on and i don't have any problems with them slipping.

as far as the bearings turning i have never had an issue there unless i tried to run the drum with nothing in it. an empty drum won't spin.

fill with at least water to test the more weight the better it turns. good luck any more questions feel free to ask.

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biggdawg : I recently found this tumbler build and lots of great info. I built one just about exactly what you made and I was having problems with the 1/2" heater hose slipping on the shaft. Did you glue the heater hose onto the shaft so it would not slip?

I think I might have to add another pulley to drive the second shaft, my pillow bearings are new and not broken in yet so the drum sits on top of the shafts and hardly spins because the second shaft is hardly moving at all.

i just push the heater hose on the shaft -- it usually is a real pain to get on and i don't have any problems with them slipping.

as far as the bearings turning i have never had an issue there unless i tried to run the drum with nothing in it. an empty drum won't spin.

fill with at least water to test the more weight the better it turns. good luck any more questions feel free to ask.

After reading your comments and Babaganoosh's about having a hard time getting the hose on the shaft I looked at the hose closely and it says gas line on there and not heater hose. Looking at the inside of the hose it is very smooth so I wonder if the heater hose that you guys put on has a rough surface. Anyway I sprayed some glue on the shaft and inside the hose and that took care of that.

The bearings were a little stiff to move even off the shaft so what I did was remove the front shaft and bearings. I put the tumbler on my wooden table and on a piece of 2 x 4 I installed 4 wheel rollers the same position and height as the shaft would have been. I put the drum on and let her go and it is working perfectly. I ran it for about 18 hours cleaning some brass.

This morning I took off the rollers and switched the back driven shaft to the front and put the front ones back on in the rear position and mounted the pulley on the back again. So basically I have broken in bearing up the front now and the rear shaft wont matter because it is being driven. I fired it up and away it went. So it just needed the bearings to be broken in so when you go to the store, try the bearings and see how hard they are to move without grease in them. Mine were not that hard to move but it still didn't work till they were broken in.

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Are there any issues with the screw on cap canister having two different diameters?

the only comments i have had is the container will walk to one end but that is why i put the idler bearings

and it will wear a groove in the rubber hose.

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  • 1 month later...

biggdawg you built a 6" and an 8" which one worked better. I just got my moter and am starting my build.

schultz

The 8 is more efficient but costs more to build. the 6" 1 gallon drum is the drum i use the most it is my small batch drum.

i have 5lbs of media in it and 15lbs in my 3 gallon 8" drum i have a 6" 2 gallon drum i use 10lbs of media in.

i don't know how much brass you need to do but if it is large quantities go with the 8 if not the 6 is more than capable.

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Just thought of another question How did your strainer system work?

Schultz

it really didn't work out. i scrapped the idea and just use the 6-4 reducer and 4 inch rubber cap.

i use the frankfort arsnal separator.

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  • 2 weeks later...

FYI - Pellets Inc is still the best place to buy media. They are now requiring a 25lb min purchase because the time to pack 5lbs at a time was killing them... just get a friend and split it. That or do like I did and just make a 6in and a 8 in. ;)

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FYI - Pellets Inc is still the best place to buy media. They are now requiring a 25lb min purchase because the time to pack 5lbs at a time was killing them... just get a friend and split it. That or do like I did and just make a 6in and a 8 in. ;)

That's unfortunate that you now have to buy 5 pounds at a time. Kinda alienates a large part of the shooting community

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That's unfortunate that you now have to buy 5 pounds at a time. Kinda alienates a large part of the shooting community

It wouldn't be that hard for a shooter to split into 5 pound lots and ship to others in a priority mail flat rate box..besides the pellets inc price is nearly half the price that many people paid when this was just taking off...

Heck to prove my point, if there are at least three people here that want to go in on an order from pellets inc, I would run a group buy and split up the order, for the first 25 pounds, I will do it for cost, if it goes beyond that, I will charge a whopping $1 over cost per order for the next 10 orders...

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  • 3 months later...

They now have a bigger pin - called the XL - which we think works better than the original small ones. .062 by just a hair less than .500. Same price as the smaller ones. The big ones are easier to handle, find if you drop one and you can't jam two in the primer pocket flash hole as will happen once in awhile with the small ones.

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They now have a bigger pin - called the XL - which we think works better than the original small ones. .062 by just a hair less than .500. Same price as the smaller ones. The big ones are easier to handle, find if you drop one and you can't jam two in the primer pocket flash hole as will happen once in awhile with the small ones.

i tried them and didn't like how they worked on the smaller cases like 223 and the small primer pockets

i think the larger diameter and shorter would work better. i bet they will work good on the larger cases

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We have used them mostly on straight wall pistol cases, did a few sample 50 BMG cases for Kevin and they worked well on them. Did a few .223s also and they seemed ok. Don't have a lot of experience with the .223s so you may be correct on them.

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We have used them mostly on straight wall pistol cases, did a few sample 50 BMG cases for Kevin and they worked well on them. Did a few .223s also and they seemed ok. Don't have a lot of experience with the .223s so you may be correct on them.

yeh, kevin talked me into trying them. sent me 10lbs. i ran a few batches and they didn't clean as fast or good as the small pins. so he let me send them back in exchange for the small ones.

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