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Best Dremel tools for cutting a hammer


pdxrealtor

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On 7/29/2016 at 7:51 AM, Toolguy said:

Carbide drills don't cost that much. The best ones for this job are the ones with 2 straight flutes. You can order them from any industrial supply house that carries machine shop tooling. They come in a wide variety of sizes. They can be used on a regular drill press. Two places that have them are - mscdirect.com and www.mcmaster.com. A 1/4" one is $30 - $35.

Thanks for this tip. I got my drill press (a shop smith actually - another story) setup and just ordered a solid carbide 2 straight flute, made in the USA, 3/16" bit. Going to get working on this hammer tomorrow hopefully. 

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Just got done modifying the hammer. Started at 27 grams, ended at 19. And, I kept the DA spur.

Made a jig so I can repeat this over and over on the drill press. It requires some freehand Dremel work too, but the jig and drill press make the rest pretty easy.

 

 

20160904_181307 (Small).jpg

20160904_181245 (Small).jpg

Edited by pdxrealtor
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Nice work, but it looks like that hammer may break off fairly soon. I hope not though.

If I were doing that one, I would drill another hole at the base of the spur and leave more meat at the "neck" area.

Edited by Toolguy
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The base of the spur as seen from the side,  or the top? 

I saw a couple others that were like this,  and a couple more that had left the back piece on (acts as support between top and bottom) . I decided to give this a shot. 

I gave it a good squeeze to check for flex,  and I didn't notice any. Seems solid. Time will tell I suppose. 

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Alaskan - thx. I'm pleased with it so to get compliments feels good! 

About to load setup the Dillon 650 for .357 and make some rounds and I'll use this revolver to play with the development. So... it will see at least a few hundred rounds very shortly. I'm going through revolver withdraws because I'm out and I refuse to buy more .357 since I have all the stuff to make it. 

Toolguy - I it's a great idea and a perfect spot for another hole. 

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On ‎9‎/‎4‎/‎2016 at 8:59 PM, Toolguy said:

Nice work, but it looks like that hammer may break off fairly soon. I hope not though.

If I were doing that one, I would drill another hole at the base of the spur and leave more meat at the "neck" area.

 

Someone did something similar in that "neck" area a while back and it failed after a while. I'll be watching with interest to see how this does over time.

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It is thin in a high stress, high impact area. The part above the neck is impacted once when the hammer hits the frame, and again on recoil every shot. My guess it will develop a crack which will get bigger and bigger until the top part falls off. I don't see anything spectacular happening, probably no danger to the shooter.

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On September 4, 2016 at 8:24 PM, pdxrealtor said:

Just got done modifying the hammer. Started at 27 grams, ended at 19. And, I kept the DA spur.

Made a jig so I can repeat this over and over on the drill press. It requires some freehand Dremel work too, but the jig and drill press make the rest pretty easy.

 

 

20160904_181307 (Small).jpg

20160904_181245 (Small).jpg

Looks trick, shoot the hell out of it and see what happens.

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There was a thread from back around 2011 and it was about trigger chopping. There were a couple there that were carved up more than mine in terms of thin areas. I wonder what ever happened to them.

I don't know metals at all,  but it seems odd that a part so hard no drill except a solid carbide bit would touch it could crack or break. Especially when I can't flex the thing between my fingers. 

Has there been reports of guys who cut up the hammer, then come back and say oops.. it broke? 

Here's  that thread I mention.

http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?showtopic=107539&page=1

From in that thread - 

Here's a hammer that looks thin at the bottom. Forum member @4mike did this one. 

 

 

hammer.jpg

Edited by pdxrealtor
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Here's another pretty thin one, but I see they did leave some material where the area of concern is. But, it sure is thin on the bottom! 

Time will tell.  Appreciate the heads up on the potential week point. It's good to know as I won't be doing anymore like this until I get a few thousand down the pipe. I think the best approach may be as is done in the picture below, and as Toolguy suggested. Leave a bit of material and drill another hole at the bast of the spur on the side. 

Hammer modification.jpg

Edited by pdxrealtor
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18 hours ago, pdxrealtor said:

There was a thread from back around 2011 and it was about trigger chopping. There were a couple there that were carved up more than mine in terms of thin areas. I wonder what ever happened to them.

I don't know metals at all,  but it seems odd that a part so hard no drill except a solid carbide bit would touch it could crack or break. Especially when I can't flex the thing between my fingers. 

Has there been reports of guys who cut up the hammer, then come back and say oops.. it broke? 

Here's  that thread I mention.

http://forums.brianenos.com/index.php?showtopic=107539&page=1

From in that thread - 

 

Here's a hammer that looks thin at the bottom. Forum member @4mike did this one. 

 

 

hammer.jpg

Skeletonized but leaving a connected loop like this, seems like a good compromise for a carry gun, to keep lint ect. out of the action.

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