I bought a Hornady Lock and Load AP...

[S391]

Quick update.... the shellplate and Hornady dies arrived this afternoon and everything is looking pretty good. I just have to sit down with the scale and work out how much powder I'm dropping and I should be good to go....

We're in the home stretch......

Here are a couple of trial rounds I made up to test the resize / flair / crimp / case length of the load.... they don't have powder as they only thing I have to dial in is the powder drop.... Mine are the bookends with a factory Winchester round in the middle (I didn't run the brass through a tumbler so they look a little cruddy, sorry).

The press is pretty slick. Now I have to figure out how and when I can pick up the case feeder.....

Edited November 14, 2009 by S391

[20nickels]

Lookon' good! Tkae your time and figure out the in's n outs of the press before you through a case feeder into the mix. You may find ya don't need it.

[CocoBolo]

Looks like your heading for a bad jam. Those lead bullets have a flat nose. Take the barrel out of the gun and try easing them into the chamber feeling for resistance. If they pass that test then make a few more dummies and load them in a mag and cycle them slowly thru the gun. If they cycle slowly well then try it as fast as you can. Make sure that the slide is closing all the way. If not just start making them a little shorter and re-test, shorter means about 1/2 round on the bullet seating die.

By the way you will find that if not all the stations have brass in them your round will grow about .010 to .015 when the stations are full so adjust bullet seating with brass in all stations especially the sizing station.

Each time you change the powder adjustment run 3 cases then weigh. Just keep pouring powder back in the measure. Each time you adjust the first couple of cases will not be accurate. When you get close then do small changes 1/4 round in or out. If things get wierd just weigh a couple more to be sure. Also make sure that there is no wind blowing on the scale including exhaling over it.

Once you start yanking your ram at speed be careful of brass falling over sideways heading for the sizing die, it is how primer punches get broken. Next time you order something get a few spares.

Once your happy load a few then go shoot them over a crono. If everything is where you want it your ready to crank out bullets to you run out of something.

[S391]

Looks like your heading for a bad jam. Those lead bullets have a flat nose. Take the barrel out of the gun and try easing them into the chamber feeling for resistance. If they pass that test then make a few more dummies and load them in a mag and cycle them slowly thru the gun. If they cycle slowly well then try it as fast as you can. Make sure that the slide is closing all the way. If not just start making them a little shorter and re-test, shorter means about 1/2 round on the bullet seating die.

By the way you will find that if not all the stations have brass in them your round will grow about .010 to .015 when the stations are full so adjust bullet seating with brass in all stations especially the sizing station.

Each time you change the powder adjustment run 3 cases then weigh. Just keep pouring powder back in the measure. Each time you adjust the first couple of cases will not be accurate. When you get close then do small changes 1/4 round in or out. If things get wierd just weigh a couple more to be sure. Also make sure that there is no wind blowing on the scale including exhaling over it.

Once you start yanking your ram at speed be careful of brass falling over sideways heading for the sizing die, it is how primer punches get broken. Next time you order something get a few spares.

Once your happy load a few then go shoot them over a crono. If everything is where you want it your ready to crank out bullets to you run out of something.

I made up 10 dummy loads last night (no powder or primer) so I can have a "full" mag when I go through my dry-fire / reloading drills (I keep snap caps on top) and I just tried running them through my M&P. They do seem a little bit long so I'll pull out the calipers and seat the bullet a little bit lower... They ran through the gun but I could feel one or two hitting as I cycled the action.

Thank you all for the great advice. I haven't reloaded pistol ammo since 1988 and I forgot how much fun it can be......

[lugnut]

What is your OAL on them? I use MG 147 CMJs... they have a flat nose too. My OAL is about 1.130".

Edited November 15, 2009 by lugnut

[S391]

What is your OAL on them? I use MG 147 CMJs... they have a flat nose too. My OAL is about 1.130".

I have to double check; the data I'm using says they should be 1.169".

[lugnut]

What is your OAL on them? I use MG 147 CMJs... they have a flat nose too. My OAL is about 1.130".

I have to double check; the data I'm using says they should be 1.169".

Hmmm YOU have to set the COL. Adjust the seating die, measure and adjust as needed.

[S391]

What is your OAL on them? I use MG 147 CMJs... they have a flat nose too. My OAL is about 1.130".

I have to double check; the data I'm using says they should be 1.169".

Hmmm YOU have to set the COL. Adjust the seating die, measure and adjust as needed.

You mean I can't use the force?

What I meant to say was that I am trying to obtain a COL of 1.169.... I have to confirm where I'm at and where I have things set... I can't seem to find my calipers so I'm going on trial and error at this point (i'm not doing anything more than setting the dies.... no powder or primers have been hurt in the production of these dummy rounds)

Edited November 15, 2009 by S391

[SLM]

1.169" is the SAAMI max length for 9mm IIRC. I think you'll find it too long with those 147's. 1.143" has always worked out great with that weight and style bullet for me.

I have the case feeder and like it but it's not a necessity. I load nothing but 9mm for my Open guns on my L-N-L so it's dialed in tight. I used to work to do ~600 rounds loaded an hour, no set up, no clean up, just load. Now I can do it in less than 40 minutes if I want. On average I still do about 600 an hour but now it's easy to do that including set up and be cleaned up and done with everything put away in an hour.

[CocoBolo]

Each molded lead bullet has a profile based upon the mold used. What gets you into trouble is where the bullet reaches max diameter. So depending on the profile of the bullet you adjust the oal to fit your gun. When you are checking them in the gun look at the bullet for signs that it is contacting the rifeling.

Example: Zero 125gr RN OAL = 1.150-1.160 ZERO 125gr FN OAL = 1.050-1.060. The FN is a lot shorter because of the nose on the bullet. This is a jacketed example but applies to lead bullets as well. I just went out to the shop and measured these to be sure.

I would suggest posting a topic asking for an OAL for the exact bullet that you are using and mention the gun or guns you intend to shoot them in.

[S391]

Each molded lead bullet has a profile based upon the mold used. What gets you into trouble is where the bullet reaches max diameter. So depending on the profile of the bullet you adjust the oal to fit your gun. When you are checking them in the gun look at the bullet for signs that it is contacting the rifeling.

Example: Zero 125gr RN OAL = 1.150-1.160 ZERO 125gr FN OAL = 1.050-1.060. The FN is a lot shorter because of the nose on the bullet. This is a jacketed example but applies to lead bullets as well. I just went out to the shop and measured these to be sure.

I would suggest posting a topic asking for an OAL for the exact bullet that you are using and mention the gun or guns you intend to shoot them in.

The data was for a conical lead flat point bullet...... But I'll make sure to check for signs that the bullet is coming in contact with the rifling. Thanks for the info and I'll keep playing with it until I get it right.

Edited November 15, 2009 by S391

[Mush from PA.]

I am also new to the L-N-L. I bought a not new but never used press with the case loader. I ran 100 9mm Luger with no problem, all RP cases. Then the indexing was off when I tried to load on another day. The case feeder would drop the case but it would jam in the shell plate by tipping and I would have to align almost each case by hand. I called Hornady and he (I forgot his name but he worked with me for 45 minutes and all we could figure out was the indexing was somehow off) I thanked him for his time and I would adjust and try later. Well today I loaded without the case feeder and still had jams going into the shell plate. I looked over the brass (range brass but all WIN cases) and I noticed the primers were slightly proud or at least where the fireing pin hit and gouged the primer metal. The problem was not the case but the small chunk of primer sticking out on some of the primers. When I pressed out the primers the cases fed like a knife through hot butter. I will try the case feeder later but I think this was the problem.

[Jeff686]

I am also new to the L-N-L. I bought a not new but never used press with the case loader. I ran 100 9mm Luger with no problem, all RP cases. Then the indexing was off when I tried to load on another day. The case feeder would drop the case but it would jam in the shell plate by tipping and I would have to align almost each case by hand. I called Hornady and he (I forgot his name but he worked with me for 45 minutes and all we could figure out was the indexing was somehow off) I thanked him for his time and I would adjust and try later. Well today I loaded without the case feeder and still had jams going into the shell plate. I looked over the brass (range brass but all WIN cases) and I noticed the primers were slightly proud or at least where the fireing pin hit and gouged the primer metal. The problem was not the case but the small chunk of primer sticking out on some of the primers. When I pressed out the primers the cases fed like a knife through hot butter. I will try the case feeder later but I think this was the problem.

I sometimes get a tipped case too. I beveled the edge of the shell plate a little (using a file, then a stone) and it helped a lot. I only did it to knock off the sharp edge and smooth it out a little. I've found that doing some minor fitting and polishing is frequently helpful with all sorts of mechanical stuff.

[lugnut]

I've found that doing some minor fitting and polishing is frequently helpful with all sorts of mechanical stuff.

You got that right for sure!!! Primer slide, etc.

[S391]

I've found that doing some minor fitting and polishing is frequently helpful with all sorts of mechanical stuff.

You got that right for sure!!! Primer slide, etc.

No kidding.... I just had to deal with a press issue. The little ram that seats the primers is not dropping back down to allow the primer "sled" to move and pick up another primer. It basically locked the sled into place and messed up the guiderod plus the sled has a nice little chip on the leading edge where it hits the ram.... Time to call Hornady and figure out what's going on.

Edited November 16, 2009 by S391

[SLM]

Most likely some "gunk" has found its way into the seating plug. Take it out, push the center up and blow it out with canned air, a compressor or just by mouth. If it's really bad you can take it apart and clean it. Just be careful not to loose the little "E" clip that holds it together. I clean mine as a matter of normal maintenance every 5,000 rounds or so. It will get little shaving of brass in it, flakes of powder, stuff like that.

The little chip/chunk out of the front of the sled is a non-issue. Don't give it a second thought as the front of the slide doesn't really do anything. I even filed mine down a bit to give the punch more room.

[S391]

Most likely some "gunk" has found its way into the seating plug. Take it out, push the center up and blow it out with canned air, a compressor or just by mouth. If it's really bad you can take it apart and clean it. Just be careful not to loose the little "E" clip that holds it together. I clean mine as a matter of normal maintenance every 5,000 rounds or so. It will get little shaving of brass in it, flakes of powder, stuff like that.

The little chip/chunk out of the front of the sled is a non-issue. Don't give it a second thought as the front of the slide doesn't really do anything. I even filed mine down a bit to give the punch more room.

Thanks for the info, I think I need to include that in my cleaning schedule going forward.

I just got off the phone with Hornady and I asked them what I should do. They said take it apart and use the new parts they were sending me. Without asking they are sending me a full set of replacement parts for free.

I like those Hornady guys, they're ok

Edited November 16, 2009 by S391

[SLM]

Oh yea, they're good to deal with. I've called to order a couple things I trashed being a bit too ham handed and they wouldn't let me pay for it. I told the lady three times I broke it, it wasn't their fault. Still no dice and parts just showed up. Gotta love that!

[S391]

I managed to wrangle the bent parts back into shape and I cleaned everything out. I just loaded 150 rounds and I was still having issues with the primer feed but I was able to work around it now that I know what to look for. All 150 turned out great and I'm really starting to dig this press. I'll touch base once I have the new parts installed and everything is up and running.

I do know that I want to add the casefeeder.... it just seems like it's one less thing to have to deal with and I can focus on the primers, the powder drop, etc with one installed.......

On a related note, I took my first 100 reloads out to the rang today. They all went bang and I didn't have a single malfunction. I liked the way they shot but I want to get them on a chrono and see what I really have.

Thank you to everyone for your help.

[SLM]

Glad to hear you are getting it all dialed in. I went from a Lee hand press to the L-N-L so there was a bit of a learning curve. When I first got it set up it was taking me close to an hour to load 100 rounds or so (which was still a vast improvement over single staging them). Now that I've been using it for almost two years I have 100 done before I realize I got started right. I bought myself the case feeder for my birthday last summer and now my normal loading session is 600 rounds, start to finish including filling primer tubes, verifying charge weights, etc., and cleaning up when I'm done in less than an hour without really working at it. Go slow at first and you'll learn everything that is happening, how it happens and why and you'll be in great shape and cranking out ammo almost as fast as you can shoot it in no time!

[CocoBolo]

Glad to hear your first rounds went good.

Primer Plunger issues. These are caused by two things.

1. Corn and crap in the cases. When you deprime and size it gets under the shell plate and works its way into the primer plunger.

2. Powder getting onto the shell plate then working its way round to the primer plunger.

Cures:

1. RCBS Media seperator. A few rotations and the crap is in the bottom of the media seperator and you just pour it back into the tumbler.

2. Parts cleaning brush. When powder gets on the shell plate brush it off. Be sure not to do this by the primer assembly.

Slinging powder is caused buy either too rapid movement or by not having the shell plate tension adjusted just right vary the tension on the shell plate so it does not snap hard into place. This gets better after the shell plate springs get a little weaker.

Remedies: Primer plunger. Raise the press up just enough (by pressing ram down) to get you hand under it and snap the plunger in and out a few times. Powder Slide - clean the recessed area with the brush.

I have never taken the plunger apart in 30K rounds, worst case I have sprayed it out with break cleaner, just unscrew it clean and put it back in.

You will find in Large Primers mostly that the last primer will hang up the primer slide, it may do it with small as well. Easy fix here is just reload it before it runs out. I have a wire like a long probe I stick in the primer tube. When it hits bottom its time to refill, just watch it go down as I reload.

Adjusting the index is easy as long as you take it slow. Look down at which pawl is moving it on the stroke that is at issue up or down the turn the allen head screw 1/4 turn either way if it improves keep going slowing in that direction if its worse go 1/2 turn the other way. Keep track of your travel, worst case go back to where you were.

Cases Falling over. Operate the press a little smoother. Its not a race, check shell plate tension.

Case Feeder - 9, 38, 45 easy to adjust 40's take a little more patience. On the little V block that pushes the brass into the shell plate leave the little screw slightly loose this allows it to move slightly left and right and it works better that way. If shells are not going into the shell plate this is a shell plate tension adjustment issue. Too tight is a problem and too loose is also a problem.

Any forcing will break something. Reloading is by feel, if resistance is felt in the wrong part of the pull something is about to be broken by too much force.

[lugnut]

Slinging powder is caused buy either too rapid movement or by not having the shell plate tension adjusted just right vary the tension on the shell plate so it does not snap hard into place. This gets better after the shell plate springs get a little weaker.

Hey! I just installed the new EZ-Ject subplate and just noticed the shell plates do indeed snap into place quicker. I've noticed the powder jumps around more than before. I though the little indents in the new subplate were just deeper. How do you adjust the plate tension??

[CocoBolo]

lugNut - Tension is adjusted by tightening or loosening the bolt that holds the shell plate. Since you no longer have that dreaded ejector spring to loosen it for you it should stay put.

I use a little wheel bearing grease on the shell plate balls.

Without any brass just expierement with it till it runs the way you like it. You will also find out if your indexing is working correctly. If its not hitting the pockets it needs adjusting.

[lugnut]

lugNut - Tension is adjusted by tightening or loosening the bolt that holds the shell plate. Since you no longer have that dreaded ejector spring to loosen it for you it should stay put.

I use a little wheel bearing grease on the shell plate balls.

Without any brass just expierement with it till it runs the way you like it. You will also find out if your indexing is working correctly. If its not hitting the pockets it needs adjusting.

Mine is indexing and working well, it just when the plate balls engage in the sub plate the cases shake more than I recall previously. I always thought you need to keep the shell plate bolt tight so the priming works well. I always keep that bolt very tight and the plate seems fine.

[SLM]

I keep mine tight. Things start getting a little odd if it gets loose for me.